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Solid Pinion bushing in a 9 inch

joe smith

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I am building a 9" for my car.. First time I am going to use a solid shim and NOT a crush type shim for my pinion preload..... I have run out of shims and have to order more..
.509 is too loose and .498 is too tight, which is the best I can do for now with what shims I have..
Will 1 or 2 thousandths make a alot of difference or is it more like 3 or 4 thousandths at a time for much of change?
I need to order some more shims to adjust preload and this will help me figure out what I need... Thanks
 
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Friend of mine that had a one man rearend shop, specialized in nines (tho he did my 8 3/4 locker) . He always did .005 shim change at a time, said one or two thou was hard to detect.
 
I assume you are talking pinion preload. If you can not get the right drag on rotation get the right shim.
 
I assume you are talking pinion preload. If you can not get the right drag on rotation get the right shim.
I just went back to my post and you are correct, I never said what I was preloading....
 
Friend of mine that had a one man rearend shop, specialized in nines (tho he did my 8 3/4 locker) . He always did .005 shim change at a time, said one or two thou was hard to detect.
Thank you, this is just what I was looking for ....
 
I just went back to my post and you are correct, I never said what I was preloading....
So you still need the correct shim to have the correct rotational torque on the pinion. .005 is BS.
 
I'm a little lost on the amount of shims being used. Maybe because it's a 9" furd. Or the bushing being used. Are .005 shims available?

You're using the needle inch lb wrench?
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Here's a preload chart. Looks like 13-15 inch lbs.
20200301_183025.jpg
 
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The shim kit I purchased had a large shim of .432 and the 5 small shims ranged from .11 to .22... I had all 6 of the shims on it for a total of .509 or with the smallest one out .498.. Seems a bit hard to find loose shims the size I need for sale and I do only need some small sizes ( .001 to .009) to figure out what works. I was ready to install the crush shim for a bit, but there is NO hurry yet to this project..
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I found a rear end shop that is going to go through there "large" shim pile for me next week ( Super nice guys in NC). They think they have some .502 or .505 shims.. The **** way to do these is to have ONE shim machined to the size you need..
 
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Krysler kid, I have seen specs from 5 to 35 inch pounds..LOL..The specs on your post seem to be the most common.... I will use them unless the Place in NC( Gear FX) recommends different.....
 
Krysler kid, I have seen specs from 5 to 35 inch pounds..LOL..The specs on your post seem to be the most common.... I will use them unless the Place in NC( Gear FX) recommends different.....

I believe the thinnest one I have is .007. I have some .011, .012 and larger. Let me know if you need them.
Cass aka Dr. Diff sent me the chart along with the Nitro gear set I bought from him. Have Fun! :)
 
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I believe the thinnest one I have is .007. I have some .011, .012 and larger. Let me know if you need them.
Cass aka Dr. Diff sent me the chart along with the Nitro gear set I bought from him. Have Fun! :)
Thanks for the offer... I do appreciate it.... If your chart is from Cass, I would call it good......
Just installed the ring gear on the new eaton posi unit...
 
Have you checked back lash yet. IIRC if it's off and you need to change your pinion shim won't that change the bearing preload and you'll have to add or subtract shims accordingly for that? May not need different thickness shims?
 
Have you checked back lash yet. IIRC if it's off and you need to change your pinion shim won't that change the preload and you'll have to add or subtract shims accordingly?
Your getting ahead of me.. Can't check the backlash until I get the pinion preload done then install the pinion carrier on the third member housing.. Still have to mess with pinion depth too.....
 
Your getting ahead of me.. Can't check the backlash until I get the pinion preload done then install the pinion carrier on the third member housing.. Still have to mess with pinion depth too.....

The ford adds/subtracts shims under the pinion housing, I forgot! :rolleyes:
 
When you get the true track up and running, can you let us know how you like it?
Im trying to decide what to do with a 3.50 open center ive got. I have a center with good gear and a spool, but the spool and the axles i want to use dont match. Im leaning toward a lock right locker for the open, or maybe the center section from jegs with the spool.
 
When you get the true track up and running, can you let us know how you like it?
Im trying to decide what to do with a 3.50 open center ive got. I have a center with good gear and a spool, but the spool and the axles i want to use dont match. Im leaning toward a lock right locker for the open, or maybe the center section from jegs with the spool.
Will do, but it will be a while still..... My block and crank are in Machine shop hell.
I chose the Eaton because it will never wear out ( no clutch discs) and it needs NO additional fluids... GL5 recommended, NO synthetics......
Not much horsepower, a stock Explorer 302 with a Flow tech "designed for the car" cam, is all that will be in it....
 
Will do, but it will be a while still..... My block and crank are in Machine shop hell.
I chose the Eaton because it will never wear out ( no clutch discs) and it needs NO additional fluids... GL5 recommended, NO synthetics......
Not much horsepower, a stock Explorer 302 with a Flow tech "designed for the car" cam, is all that will be in it....
Thanks for that, and no hurry!
Definately agree on the NO synthetics! My friend referenced above (sadly passed away young, pancreatic cancer) , if the customer insisted on synthetic, would warrentee his work for 6 inches/6 seconds, which ever came first. He recommended Torco, and never used anything else. He felt synthetic was too thin, too slippery, and wouldnt cling to the gears properly.
 
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