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Alternator choices.

Moose440

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Hey guys I’m sure you have herd this a million times so please bear with me. im in between a power master 95amp a tuff stuff 100amp and the very beautiful looking mopar performance 110amp alternators. They all are one wire there all around the same price but for output the mopar is the best bang for the buck. Dose anyone know which is better?? Are they all kinda the same ?? Basically which do I go for I want a good long lasting and also good idle charge. Thanks.
 
The really correct look is as far I can tell the tuffstuff one. PowerMaster and Mopar Performance are using the later case which is a bit wider and fits a bit tight.

Now, I can't tell about quality. Have heard diff stuff about them ( each of them ).

And they are not all one wire necesarilly. Everything depends on your request. Myself When I have funds will go with the TuffStuff one but regular stock wiring, using the stock regulator.
 
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Thanks nacho. I’m not to big in exact looks but definitely don’t want a tm on there. I have a 75amp out of an 80s van with a one wire set up on it now. The problem is I get no volts at idle I think the regulator that’s on it took a poop. I’m really leaning towards the mopar performance one wire 110amp in black looks so nice and will match my valve cover and pulleys.
 
I just bought and installed a TuffStuff 130 amp original style that uses the original voltage regulator.
 
I have a 75amp out of an 80s van with a one wire set up on it now. The problem is I get no volts at idle I think the regulator that’s on it took a poop.

yes, thats the big problem with stock alts. HOWEVER a stock 75 amps alt could be enough with the propper pulley diameter. Most of them get the big one but at certain moment they began to get the small pulley. I have used that one with the small pulley and even I preffer to get more juice, my car has being surviving with it. I'm as mentioned pointing out to the tuffstuff 100 amps cast finisg double pulley.

Is not just about the look, but the phisical difference makes it a bit wider and can fit tight on your setup. I had to trim my alt rear spacer to fit it better, better belt aligment and had to get longer belts ( couple of inches ) because rear of alt was meeting with block with stock length belts

Correction it’s a proform official mopar alternator

Proform ( "unfortunatelly"???? ) is the manufacturer of the actual Mopar Performance parts
 
I had a Tuff Stuff alternator a while back, chrome started to peel almost right away and their "one-wire" conversion regulator burned out after just a few months. They told me they were out of stock and didn't know when they would be in, so I hooked it up to the stock style regulator. less than a year later the bearings started to go out and I wound up swapping a parts store rebuilt alternator back in. I was not impressed with Tuff Stuffs customer service. Now I'm working on a Denso conversion that will also use a serpentine style belt.
 
I had a Tuff Stuff alternator a while back, chrome started to peel almost right away and their "one-wire" conversion regulator burned out after just a few months. They told me they were out of stock and didn't know when they would be in, so I hooked it up to the stock style regulator. less than a year later the bearings started to go out and I wound up swapping a parts store rebuilt alternator back in. I was not impressed with Tuff Stuffs customer service. Now I'm working on a Denso conversion that will also use a serpentine style belt.

Out of curiosity, if the "bearings were starting to go out" why didn't you just replace the bearings. Alternators are simple devices, unlike rebuilding an engine or transmission or rear end assembly. The bearings are easy to replace and available at most auto parts stores. Since you have to remove the drive sheave to replace the front bearing anyway, when reassembling simply press on a smaller pitch diameter sheave to achieve greater low RPM output. Just thinking out loud....
BOB RENTON
 
Out of curiosity, if the "bearings were starting to go out" why didn't you just replace the bearings. Alternators are simple devices, unlike rebuilding an engine or transmission or rear end assembly. The bearings are easy to replace and available at most auto parts stores. Since you have to remove the drive sheave to replace the front bearing anyway, when reassembling simply press on a smaller pitch diameter sheave to achieve greater low RPM output. Just thinking out loud....
BOB RENTON

To be completely honest it was a combination of the fact that the peeling chrome was revealing corrosion under it (ugly!), dissatisfaction with their customer service/quality of product as everything I described happened on an alternator that was less than a year old (the alternator it replaced was 10+ years old and still working which is why I put it back in) and sprinkled with healthy dose of impatience.
 
Just a question... aside the customer sevice, the chrome quality ( i don't like Chromed anyway LOL ) and the bearing failure, it was actually performing good?

The mounted on regulator I think hey get is available at several places around.

I'm pointing out to keep the stock reg anyway.
 
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Well I can say it "worked" but not for very long. As for the chrome, I didn't want it or the powder coated version, but they told me the "as cast" versions had been out of stock for a while (they didn't define that) and they had no idea when they'd have any.
 
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