SixBarrelBill
Well-Known Member
I've almost finished converting my 70 Roadrunner to an Air Grabber setup. Every part is a new after market component. I have 2 major issues trying to get it to function properly, one is the new actuator which won't hold vacuum and the other is the new toggle valve or more commonly referred to as the switch. The new switch was replaced by the vendor with another new one and it leaks as well. I have taken them a part, added grease and they still leak. I decided I would ditch those crappy plastic valves and replace with a modern solution. From the outside it appears factory but it's modern behind the scenes.
Now, I saw this some where and I can't remember where. I have searched this site for the information and have not come up with it. I should have book marked it when I saw it. So, I did not come up with this solution on my own but I wanted it out there and searchable for others. I'm sure there are other ways to accomplish this and improve on it but I hope it helps.
I started by buying a Clippard MJTV-5 4 way valve with 1/8" NPT off of Amazon for $31.88. This is the type of valve you want because it has 2 outputs on the bottom and one always pulls air. The center hole you see in the pic is the inlet and the other two are exhausts.
Next I shaved the handle on the valve to press fit the plastic handle like the original.
Note: Not pictured here, I shaved a little plastic off of the top and bottom of the red handle so I could fit it further onto the toggle.
I then added brass hose fittings that I also got off of Amazon for $5.09 each. They are 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Barb.
I had already cut the hole for the switch in the original location as well as the plastic dash cover. Naturally this won't work with the new valve so I cut 2"x2" piece of metal I had laying around to cover the round hole. Drilled a hole in the center to fit the new valve through, attached the valve, put the plastic dash back on and test fitted several times before I locked it down.
Attach the hoses behind the dash (the top hose was a little tricky).
Then, assemble for the final time and test. In my car I have 12in vacuum at the manifold and when I tested each hose at the actuator (scoop open and closed) I still have 12in vacuum. No more leaky switch!
Now, I saw this some where and I can't remember where. I have searched this site for the information and have not come up with it. I should have book marked it when I saw it. So, I did not come up with this solution on my own but I wanted it out there and searchable for others. I'm sure there are other ways to accomplish this and improve on it but I hope it helps.
I started by buying a Clippard MJTV-5 4 way valve with 1/8" NPT off of Amazon for $31.88. This is the type of valve you want because it has 2 outputs on the bottom and one always pulls air. The center hole you see in the pic is the inlet and the other two are exhausts.
Next I shaved the handle on the valve to press fit the plastic handle like the original.
Note: Not pictured here, I shaved a little plastic off of the top and bottom of the red handle so I could fit it further onto the toggle.
I then added brass hose fittings that I also got off of Amazon for $5.09 each. They are 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Barb.
I had already cut the hole for the switch in the original location as well as the plastic dash cover. Naturally this won't work with the new valve so I cut 2"x2" piece of metal I had laying around to cover the round hole. Drilled a hole in the center to fit the new valve through, attached the valve, put the plastic dash back on and test fitted several times before I locked it down.
Attach the hoses behind the dash (the top hose was a little tricky).
Then, assemble for the final time and test. In my car I have 12in vacuum at the manifold and when I tested each hose at the actuator (scoop open and closed) I still have 12in vacuum. No more leaky switch!