How do I get clutch pedal to come up?

[jayfire]

68 GTX original 4 speed. I’ve attached pics. Pedal does not come up all the way, in-line with the brake pedal. It’s a good 2-3” away. I have to use my foot to bring it up. Works fine otherwise. Over center spring is there. Clutch rod has some play. How can I get this up without “little blue pills”!! Thanks

 

[LowBikeMike]

Is the return spring on the clutch fork?

 

[dadsbee]

Pull the pedal up, then set the throw out rod length from torque bar to clutch fork, by lengthening it, so that you have a 1/4" of free play (ie: needing to pull back on the fork to then make throw out bearing contact) and Bob's your Uncle. 1/4" at the fork should give you about 1" of free play in the pedal before throw out bearing contact.

 

[Dennis H]

Yep, toe.

 

[jayfire]

Is the return spring on the clutch fork?

Nope! I just ordered one. Thanks

 

[jayfire]

Pull the pedal up, then set the throw out rod length from torque bar to clutch fork, by lengthening it, so that you have a 1/4" of free play (ie: needing to pull back on the fork to then make throw out bearing contact) and Bob's your Uncle. 1/4" at the fork should give you about 1" of free play in the pedal before throw out bearing contact.

Thanks! After I get the return spring on there, I will do this adjustment.

 

[dadsbee]

That spring is an anti rattle spring, also to keep the fork from falling off the rod end and to keep the throw out off the pressure plate fingers, it's not a "return spring".

 

[LowBikeMike]

It may not a return spring, but it will help the pedal come up to the right position once all adjustments have be properly completed. I had the same issue as original poster, previous owner put spring on pedal to dash support, no over center spring, and no spring on clutch fork. Installed proper spring on clutch fork and all is well.

 

[moparedtn]

That spring is an anti rattle spring, also to keep the fork from falling off the rod end and to keep the throw out off the pressure plate fingers, it's not a "return spring".

Correct. The fork return spring's whole purpose for being is to hold the fork back and therefore keep the
throwout bearing off the fingers of the clutch when the pedal is released.
It does not depend on the clutch linkage to do what it does; instead, the linkage is adjusted to the fork
at the position the f.r.s. holds it at.
Further info (including FSM diagrams):
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/4-speed-clutch-pedal-adjustment.63358/

 

[AR67GTX]

Reduce the free play to where it’s above the over center point in the linkage and the pressure plate will take care of the rest.

 

[mrhemi]

As Dadsbee points out, first adjust the clutch free play correctly. His dimension will work, or use the FSM method of 5/32" (I think) free play at the clutch fork. Also inspect the pin that the over center spring is hooked on. I have found a couple that get a groove worn in them that alters the geometry just enough to cause the problem you are experiencing. Replace the pin and good as new. Actually I need to do that on my Charger now.

 

[Daves69]

........I have to use my foot to bring it up. Works fine otherwise. Over center spring is there.......

What pressure plate are you using?
If you have a BB three finger style the over center spring works in both directions for you. It assists your leg in the pedal effort needed to release the disc. And when adjusted properly, that same spring returns the pedal to full up once "over center".
If it is out of adjustment and not reaching the over center position and the pedal is not returning to the full up stop, you will be causing the release bearing to continually ride on the fingers of the pressure plate with over center spring pressure. This will also reduce plate pressure on the disc to some degree.

A diaphragm plate usually requires the OC spring to be removed as the pedal effort is much lighter than the BB. Most diaphragm plates won't return the pedal to over center position for the OC spring to work correctly.

 

[jayfire]

What pressure plate are you using?
If you have a BB three finger style the over center spring works in both directions for you. It assists your leg in the pedal effort needed to release the disc. And when adjusted properly, that same spring returns the pedal to full up once "over center".
If it is out of adjustment and not reaching the over center position and the pedal is not returning to the full up stop, you will be causing the release bearing to continually ride on the fingers of the pressure plate with over center spring pressure. This will also reduce plate pressure on the disc to some degree.

A diaphragm plate usually requires the OC spring to be removed as the pedal effort is much lighter than the BB. Most diaphragm plates won't return the pedal to over center position for the OC spring to work correctly.

The previous owner (for 47 years) said it is a Borg Warner nascar style pressure plate. The hemi, 4 speed and Dana were all rebuilt from 1987-1990, with about 40 miles on all of it. Not much cruising weather in Alaska.

 

[Mick56]

Disconnect the clutch rod under the dash. Push the pedal down, and it should snap down pretty good. Pull it up, and after it over centers, is should snap up. If it doesn't do this, the over center spring is not hooked up correctly.
If the pedal works correctly, there is something wrong under the car.

 

[Daves69]

The previous owner (for 47 years) said it is a Borg Warner nascar style pressure plate......

I wouldn't rely on that description unless I was given specific part numbers on a receipt to back it up. I think I'd be getting under there with a good light and try to see for myself.
The diaphragm plate guys here know how to deal with the low pedal. If this happens to be your case, the OC spring is likely not needed.
IMO, Find out what's really in there.

 

[jayfire]

Ok, can someone school me on the pedal free play? I’m still learning about manual transmissions. I got my pedal to come up all the way with adding the fork spring and lengthening the adjustment rod. I have a new rod coming, as you can see why in the pic. Where should I see this 1/4” free play at? As I have it right now, the throw out bearing is touching all three of the fingers. Is that not good? Thanks

 

[dadsbee]

As I described earlier, you lengthen the rod AND while you do you pull back on the fork where the rod goes through the hole to check play as you go. So you end up with the rod lengthened and you can then pull the fork back 1/4" or slightly less before the throw out bearing hits the clutch plate fingers. You DO NOT want the throwout bearing sitting against the fingers. This will translate to about 1" of free play in the clutch pedal before the throw out bearing hits the pressure plate fingers.

There should also be a spring from the notch in the clutch throwout fork to the bellhousing or torque tube arm to keep the fork tight against the adjuster washer/nut assembly.

 

[jayfire]

As I described earlier, you lengthen the rod AND while you do you pull back on the fork where the rod goes through the hole to check play as you go. So you end up with the rod lengthened and you can then pull the fork back 1/4" or slightly less before the throw out bearing hits the clutch plate fingers. You DO NOT want the throwout bearing sitting against the fingers. This will translate to about 1" of free play in the clutch pedal before the throw out bearing hits the pressure plate fingers.

There should also be a spring from the notch in the clutch throwout fork to the bellhousing or torque tube arm to keep the fork tight against the adjuster washer/nut assembly.

Thanks for explaining it again to me. Just wasn’t sure where I should see 1/4” free play. So, 1/4” of space between bearing and the 3 fingers? Side note, is there another nut that goes on the end of the rod after it passes through the fork? The kit only comes with one stop nut. Mine had 2 on the back side.

 

[dadsbee]

NO, 1/4" at the rod to fork hole.. not at the bearing to fingers. It will be less than 1/4" in there! No there is no nut behind the fork hole, that is what the spring is for. Rod, nut, washer, plastic radius-ed insert forward of the fork hole, nothing behind it.

..and the nut you show is NOT correct.. it should be an acorn shaped lock nut that sits in the washer and plastic insert.

This shot shows the nut and washer.. I was waiting for the plastic insert to ship.

 

[mrhemi]

From the 1969 FSM.