Nope! I just ordered one. ThanksIs the return spring on the clutch fork?
Thanks! After I get the return spring on there, I will do this adjustment.Pull the pedal up, then set the throw out rod length from torque bar to clutch fork, by lengthening it, so that you have a 1/4" of free play (ie: needing to pull back on the fork to then make throw out bearing contact) and Bob's your Uncle. 1/4" at the fork should give you about 1" of free play in the pedal before throw out bearing contact.
Correct. The fork return spring's whole purpose for being is to hold the fork back and therefore keep theThat spring is an anti rattle spring, also to keep the fork from falling off the rod end and to keep the throw out off the pressure plate fingers, it's not a "return spring".
........I have to use my foot to bring it up. Works fine otherwise. Over center spring is there.......
The previous owner (for 47 years) said it is a Borg Warner nascar style pressure plate. The hemi, 4 speed and Dana were all rebuilt from 1987-1990, with about 40 miles on all of it. Not much cruising weather in Alaska.What pressure plate are you using?
If you have a BB three finger style the over center spring works in both directions for you. It assists your leg in the pedal effort needed to release the disc. And when adjusted properly, that same spring returns the pedal to full up once "over center".
If it is out of adjustment and not reaching the over center position and the pedal is not returning to the full up stop, you will be causing the release bearing to continually ride on the fingers of the pressure plate with over center spring pressure. This will also reduce plate pressure on the disc to some degree.
A diaphragm plate usually requires the OC spring to be removed as the pedal effort is much lighter than the BB. Most diaphragm plates won't return the pedal to over center position for the OC spring to work correctly.
I wouldn't rely on that description unless I was given specific part numbers on a receipt to back it up. I think I'd be getting under there with a good light and try to see for myself.The previous owner (for 47 years) said it is a Borg Warner nascar style pressure plate......
Thanks for explaining it again to me. Just wasn’t sure where I should see 1/4” free play. So, 1/4” of space between bearing and the 3 fingers? Side note, is there another nut that goes on the end of the rod after it passes through the fork? The kit only comes with one stop nut. Mine had 2 on the back side.As I described earlier, you lengthen the rod AND while you do you pull back on the fork where the rod goes through the hole to check play as you go. So you end up with the rod lengthened and you can then pull the fork back 1/4" or slightly less before the throw out bearing hits the clutch plate fingers. You DO NOT want the throwout bearing sitting against the fingers. This will translate to about 1" of free play in the clutch pedal before the throw out bearing hits the pressure plate fingers.
There should also be a spring from the notch in the clutch throwout fork to the bellhousing or torque tube arm to keep the fork tight against the adjuster washer/nut assembly.