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Harmonic Ballancer

1STMP

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Just curious. Is this a stock balancer, or has
it been machined down?
The engine has a forged crank, and is internally
balanced. 1968 block.
Apologies for the misspelled title...
20190509_083123-1~2.jpg
 
I know the crank is forged. It's listed as such on
the build sheet. There's also a charge on the
build sheet for balancing the rotating assembly.
The cam has been broke in. The engine does not
vibrate. From the link 451Mopar supplied. it looks
like a Hemi balancer.
 
Bad picture. Take one looking at it dead on so we can see if it's ext balance
 
The center (counter balance) ring is perfectly
round. Sorry, can't supply a better pic.
 
I would guess maybe they turned it down on the lathe(the oblong inner ring).
As pointed out in the 440 source document, it's not a hemi balancer, but the 76-78 bullet nose one.
 
I'm inclined to agree that it's been turned down.
Thanks for the input.
 
That balance looks like mine.
76 440 cast crank engine.
 
That balance looks like mine.
76 440 cast crank engine.
Thanks,
I was just trying to identify which one the
machine shop modified for a forged crank.
Should this one fail in the future, I would
need to know how to replace it.
 
Thanks,
I was just trying to identify which one the
machine shop modified for a forged crank.
Should this one fail in the future, I would
need to know how to replace it.

The only Hemi balancer I have seen are ones on the web in images. They are usually thicker and squared off like 440/383 internally balancers. The latter are usually only about 1" to 1.25" thick and the former almost 2" thick. The chamfered edge was NOT cut by a machine shop, the late 440 cast crank balancers came like that. Please reference the link in my post #4. The cutout is on the back side of the balancer for the offset weight. Just because the build sheet says forged, doesn't mean it is. They could have made a mistake when writing it up. The ONLY way to verify is to pull the pan and verify the wide or narrow parting line on the crank throws. Can't say that you can't balance an internal steel crank with an external balancer, but I would think a lot of material would need to come out of the last counterweight. If it runs fine, and you don't want to go inside to verify the rotating assy, then don't, but I would lean towards a cast crank is inside.
 
The only Hemi balancer I have seen are ones on the web in images. They are usually thicker and squared off like 440/383 internally balancers. The latter are usually only about 1" to 1.25" thick and the former almost 2" thick. The chamfered edge was NOT cut by a machine shop, the late 440 cast crank balancers came like that. Please reference the link in my post #4. The cutout is on the back side of the balancer for the offset weight. Just because the build sheet says forged, doesn't mean it is. They could have made a mistake when writing it up. The ONLY way to verify is to pull the pan and verify the wide or narrow parting line on the crank throws. Can't say that you can't balance an internal steel crank with an external balancer, but I would think a lot of material would need to come out of the last counterweight. If it runs fine, and you don't want to go inside to verify the rotating assy, then don't, but I would lean towards a cast crank is inside.
Appreciate your input.
It is a forged crank with a modified cast crank
balancer installed. The torque converter installed
helps to confirm this as the one I bought is
"neutral" balanced with no weight welded on it.
The engine runs smooth with no shakes or
shudders.
The counter balance center section on the
balancer has been machined to round.
 
Why would a old balancer be modified for use when new balancers are available at reasonable prices?
Mike
 
Why would a old balancer be modified for use when new balancers are available at reasonable prices?
Mike
I can't honestly answer your question. I have no
idea why the shop did this (other than just to see
if it would work). I think they pieced it together
as the engine has a 1968 block and 452 heads.
They may have had a forged crank sitting on
the shelf ready to throw into.something. I just
asked them to build me an engine.
 
Found some pics that show the other side.
Zoom in on the pulley mounting surface,
You should be able to see it's perfectly round.
For a cast crank, (the first pic) shows
timing marks every 90 deg. The one on my
engine has only one, that I can see.
Note the bottom pic. It states "Cut damper for
steel crank/internal balance" (Just found this
after going through the paperwork again).
1001048-1.jpg
20180424_143753~2.jpg
20180423_164848(1)~2.jpg

20211027_194910~2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sad that they did that to a $300-$400 hard to find balancer when they could have just gotten you a new stock balancer for just over $100 or a street balancer for about $175...
 
Sad that they did that to a $300-$400 hard to find balancer when they could have just gotten you a new stock balancer for just over $100 or a street balancer for about $175...
At the time (26 years ago) the shop guys got
paid about $15.00/hour. Probably took about
an hour for set-up and cutting time. Cheap for
them, but they probably charged me the $300.
 
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I am sure they chucked up in the the lathe, and finished it 15 minutes later, then grossly overcharged you. If I spent 30 minutes on it, it would cost you $30...
 
Couldn't find the charge for the actual damper
on the itemized bill, but they did charge an hours
worth of time to cutting it down.
 
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