Anybody find a performance increase with MSD 8546?

[DereII]

I put a set of Firecore wires on my 440 in place of my old Jacobs blue wires, decided to go with HEI/male tower connectors and bought a customwiresets distributor cap. I'm running an MP distributor, long ago set it up with light springs and welded slots so it only adds 17deg. One day this past year the car ran a slow time trial and I found that the cap was tilted on the distributor although still held by the retaining clips. Set it back in place and noticed the cap can be readily rocked, both on this distributor and the backup I take along to the track. This cap does not have as wide a surface where it rests compared to the factory items with female connectors.

Been thinking of upgrading to an MSD distributor, am running a 6AL box for its rev limiter ability, want to know if any of you have found any performance advantage with an MSD like the 8546 or whichever version is made for your small block or B engine. Or, know of a better cap with HEI terminals for the factory distributor.

 

[toolmanmike]

On a dyno? May be 5 horse.

 

[DereII]

I probably shouldn't restrict this to HP, better consistency is a solid performance measurement as well. Not allowed to have a crank trigger on my 440 in the class I race (Sportsman) unless they've changed the rules.

 

[Aron Gleason]

I noticed a little improvement going from the mp distributor to the msd 8546 distributor. Timing mark seems to be more stable.

 

[dvw]

If the distributor you have isn't worn out you will gain nothing.
Doug

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I have a buddy thats raced a ford truck with a small block chevy in it for close to 50 years... For 35+ of those years he ran a stock single point distributor the had been curved & had good points in it... It was always consistent & didn't miss... About fifteen years ago he finally upgraded the ignition to a high end MSD system.... Gained exactly nothing.... If what you have works well look elsewhere.....

 

[toolmanmike]

I have a buddy thats raced a ford truck with a small block chevy in it for close to 50 years... For 35+ of those years he ran a stock single point distributor the had been curved & had good points in it... It was always consistent & didn't miss... About fifteen years ago he finally upgraded the ignition to a high end MSD system.... Gained exactly nothing.... If what you have works well look elsewhere.....

LMAO Every time I go to the drag strip someone always needs a MSD box over the loudspeaker. Most racers have at least one spare in the trailer. If you have a high powered race car you should probably have a hot ignition. Mild or street like the OP has, probably not.

 

[DereII]

It'd be worth having a cap that doesn't move around on the distributor, I'm looking at just switching back to the factory female style cap terminals and setting the wires up to match. Don't need a surprise loss of .2 on an actual race lap.

Have had pretty good luck with the MSD box, 15 years and still going, pit with guys who have spare everything and yes, a box would be easy to get in an emergency at the track.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

As is often the case it's apparent your not looking for knowledge or advice, your looking for confirmation.... And aren't finding any... So go ahead & do what you were gonna do in the first place then come on back & tell us how much difference it made....

MSD's do work but they do more to clean up idle & low RPM stuff than anything thats gonna happen down track..

 

[Orig69]

I find that my 440 engine runs smoother at all rpm ranges with a distributor cap that fits the distributor perfectly and does not move around.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I find that my 440 engine runs smoother at all rpm ranges with a distributor cap that fits the distributor perfectly and does not move around.

Yeah, and a stock cap fits his distributor fine, it's his "bought a customwiresets distributor cap." that doesn't fit...

 

[Orig69]

Yeah, I had a Accel distributor cap (tan in colour) that wobbled when the engine was running.

 

[DereII]

I noticed a little improvement going from the mp distributor to the msd 8546 distributor. Timing mark seems to be more stable.

Thanks Aron, that's the sort of feedback I'm looking for. Eliminating the vacuum advance system may get some or all of that credit, I'm willing to do without it as the car sees less street time and no long trips.

 

[Aron Gleason]

Thanks Aron, that's the sort of feedback I'm looking for. Eliminating the vacuum advance system may get some or all of that credit, I'm willing to do without it as the car sees less street time and no long trips.

I've ran a mechanical advanced distributor for almost 30 years, and I drive the car on the street with no problems.

 

[DereII]

I've ran a mechanical advanced distributor for almost 30 years, and I drive the car on the street with no problems.

I think it's more of an emissions concern than anything else, there are claims for it helping keep plugs and chambers clean. I know I've left my vacuum line disconnected on trips back from the track and have driven around without it for a few weeks, similarly no noticed problems from a driver's standpoint and doesn't appear to have hurt the timeslips.

https://www.moparaction.com/2020/08/16/advance-to-go/

 

[Gunner1]

I need to do this to mine. It rattles like a box of rocks when you punch it. Soon as I feel better this is next on the list. The first was a way to small and jetted to lean 600 carb on a warmed over 440. A 750 Performance model holley got rid of 75% of it and smoothed out the cruise.

 

[Dan64]

Vacuum advance being disconnected won't hurt time slips because vacuum advance isn't in play WOT. If you go with a MSD pro billet you may want to start with the black bushing which gives you 18* in the plate. Depending on your cam/ combo you may want less, check out 4secondsflat.com They sell 14*, 10* bushing also which would allow you to run more initial timing without going over your target total timing number. I know a lot of guys automatically throw the 2 light silver springs in but i may a good idea to check that your weights are seated at idle. At idle hit the accelerator pump, motor will want to bog, if you see timing drop down at all with your timing light then go one step heavier with the spring combo. There is a great read by Halifaxshop ( on here also) that i found on FABO "Everything you wanted to know about ignition advance".

 

[Budnicks]

should go to 'Engine masters'
& check out the episode
season5/episode 15 'Throwing Sparks'
the great ignition debate

pretty well covers it
points as long as the spring isn't weak
will do the same
just archaic

an electronic ignition system, is less maintenance "usually"
& "usually" with less failures;
like burnt/arched out points or a failed condenser
or points spring fatigue
ignition break up at higher RPMs

old dual points did well too

a hotter spark will help cold starts
clean up idle a tad too, less breakup at hi-RPM
plugs stay clean longer

aftermarket boxes help for a longer dwell, burn more fuel
that enters, but performance gains are nominal
plug life & less carbon buildup, engine life, can be extended too
when not washing the cylinders down with unburnt fuel
it can't hurt

or some can be programmed,
to take out timing or add it in certain places
with N2O Turbos or Blowers especially

performance gains at a 500hp to 700hp levels are nominal
probably in single digits

Ultra-Low ohm resistance wires, like 40-50 ohm per/ft or less
brass contacts in the cap, a hotter coil, a full 12 vts at the coil
aid to get more spark/energy generated
to the plug
to help/aid to "help" burn the extra fuel added in performance engine
makes for a cleaner-burning engine

nominal performance gains still

every lil' bit helps