First thing you need to do is install Moog offset control arm bushings (K7103) in the forward location of the upper control arms. Without them, you will be lucky to get 1 degree positive caster. Also realize that for every degree of chassis rake (rear up/ front down) that you will lose and degree of caster. Most drag cars are high in the rear so this compounds the problem. However under acceleration the front rises so you will gain some of your caster angle back. Depending on how your car leaves you may even gain caster, until the front settles. But it will never settle to static ride height during a run. Camber and caster are set together as adjusting one affects the other. Both camber and caster affect toe, so it is set last. As stated before as much caster as you can get. Don't be afraid to allow them to set camber at -.05 degree. This will gain you caster. How is this? To get the max caster the front cams are all the way outward, the rears all the way inward. When aligning an early Mopar you max the front cams all the way out. Then bring the rears inward until the camber is acceptable. The caster on both side may not be equal, Then you'll have to adjust the cams on the side with the higher caster to match the lower side reading. Unequal caster will pull to the negative side. As stated the further the rear cams are moved in the greater the positive caster. But also the camber will move towards negative. Don't go beyond -.05. Then set the toe to 1/8"in (negative) . Some say zero toe. I say no, parts flex. Zero toe will go outward (positive)when driven. Positive toe drives scary. It's worth while to have the front end raised until the wheels are nearly off the ground and see if there is toe change from the ride height reading. If its more than a 1/4" that will need to be addressed in another discussion. My 64 has around 2 1/2 positive caster with about 3 degrees of chassis rake. It runs 9.0 at close to 150mph. Drives fine.
Doug
