Tie rod end separator... not “pickle fork”

[eldubb440]

Otc7503 is my favorite tool for that job, most times threads are still good afterwards. View attachment 1297963

protecting the threads is why I leave the nut on it, if the component is to be reused

 

[66Satellite47]

I have used the hammer most often, the pickle fork sometimes. If the hammer works, good.

 

[493 Mike]

My ‘68 Satellite 383 four door daily driver. I should replace everything really, as it’s all 54 years old. But I just planned on doing the front drum brakes. I waited too long and trashed the drums, so I’m replacing those as well. It drives nice with no front end noise so I wasn’t planning on ball joints. But I remember an old time mechanic telling me years ago that the lower ball joints are the first to wear out in Mopars, and most that came in were sloppy.

If you read the FSM it will tell you how much "slop" is allowed. They do not need to be "tight".
Mike

 

[440 PHIXX]

If you read the FSM it will tell you how much "slop" is allowed. They do not need to be "tight".
Mike

Hi Mike! I’ve been daily driving this car every day since 2014. In fact it’s my only drivable car right now. After 7 winters with road salt and the age of them... and I’ve already got the two bolts out, I may as well replace them. The rubber boots are cracked and will let junk in at this point. I ordered the Moog ones from Rock Auto. I hope the quality is there. I read after ordering them that it’s been spotty in the last few years.

 

[fratzog lover]

I ordered the Moog ones from Rock Auto. I hope the quality is there.

You may be disappointed.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I was just concerned about the inner tie rod end, and damaging it. I didn’t plan on replacing the ball joints or the tie rod ends until I figured I already had the ball joint bolts out, and the ballon seal was damaged. I also believe all the front end suspension parts are factory. I bought the car from a 96 YO woman who only drove the car around her local town. Hitting it with a hammer would have been better if I didn’t already have everything loose. Good info for anyone else doing the job!

Not sure why you don't want it loose. If the boots gone anyway way are not you willing to use a fork. If it damages the ball joint it just means it should have been replaced anyway.

 

[WileERobby]

But I remember an old time mechanic telling me years ago that the lower ball joints are the first to wear out in Mopars, and most that came in were sloppy.

That's because on mopar torsion-bar suspension, the spring load is on the lower control arm/ball joint, that's why they wear faster, the upper is sorta a follower. On some suspensions, the spring load is on the upper control arm (think certain Ford models), so they wear faster.

 

[moparmarks]

I've used a hammer to shock it Usually works pretty good.
I just bought one of these and have used it a few times. Works awesome.

 

[moparmarks]

Lower ball joints carries the weight on any suspension and is the first to wear over the upper joint.

 

[440 PHIXX]

Not sure why you don't want it loose. If the boots gone anyway way are not you willing to use a fork. If it damages the ball joint it just means it should have been replaced anyway.

I want the proper tool because I’ve had to drop the center link on many occasions to get the oil pan off. I always used a pickle fork and it invariably cut the rubber seals.This is from the 1968 FSM. A long obsolete Utica tool. I was just asking where to get a similar. I found a set at Eastwood. Hope they work!

 

[WileERobby]

Lower ball joints carries the weight on any suspension and is the first to wear over the upper joint.

Not on any suspension. It depends which is the load-bearing arm, some are on the upper. The arm which carries the spring/torsion bar load is the load-bearing arm, the other is the follower arm.

 

[440 PHIXX]

That's because on mopar torsion-bar suspension, the spring load is on the lower control arm/ball joint, that's why they wear faster, the upper is sorta a follower. On some suspensions, the spring load is on the upper control arm (think certain Ford models), so they wear faster.

Yup. I have the A arm and knuckle disconnected, and the suspension is on the jack stand with the full weight on it.

 

[moparmarks]

Not on any suspension. It depends which is the load-bearing arm, some are on the upper. The arm which carries the spring/torsion bar load is the load-bearing arm, the other is the follower arm.

Like a 60's Mustang?

 

[WileERobby]

Like a 60's Mustang?

Ford is a good example, where the shock-tower spring load is on the upper control arm.

 

[mopar 3 B]

GM had a few of the wonder's also where the spring towers would come threw the to weak upper body structure.

I am bad this morning that was a lower control arm support on one of Chevy's great Mustang competitors. Called a Chevy II.

 

[Ceedawg]

I've used a hammer to shock it Usually works pretty good.
I just bought one of these and have used it a few times. Works awesome.
View attachment 1298186

I like this because I’ve never been able to get the others in between the top and lower joints, so hammer-pickle fork.

 

[mountain33]

Beleive it or not Home depot has a well made set of tools for front ends. I paid about 75 bucks and it has all the tools you need plus free shipping

 

[coronet68mx]

X2 with the hammer never fail.

 

[Moparfever65]

I use the OTC 6297 separator. Put a bunch of tension on it then rap the side with a hammer, or add heat until it pops loose. The hammer trick sounds good, but I'm thinking that's difficult without a lift.

 

[toolmanmike]

Lower ball joints carries the weight on any suspension and is the first to wear over the upper joint.

Other than the stupid Fords with the coil springs in the tower. (Mustangs and Fairlanes They had upper load carrying ball joints)