Title and Registration

[1STMP]

I've seen this subject posted here
numerous times. There is much
confusion when dealing with
multiple state's DMV's and the
rules and processes required to
get one's project on the road.
It would be helpful to refer to this
info in a single location. I realize
this my be a major undertaking,
but to list each states requirements
would benefit our hobby of getting
old Mopars back on the road.
Thanks in advance for the
consideration.

 

[YY1]

I agree,but can we refrain from posting things like "I heard it was real easy".

If we stick to actual experiences from people that have actually done it, with detailed information.....

 

[YY1]

I'll start by saying that in FL, the statute says there MUST be two matching VIN numbers on the vehicle.

Of course, we know that for pre-1968 Mopars this is not possible.

Different people at different agencies have different attitudes on "learning" this and understanding what an "SO number" is.

Some will accept it, and some will not.

 

[440 4 speed]

I'll start by saying that in FL, the statute says there MUST be two matching VIN numbers on the vehicle.

Of course, we know that for pre-1968 Mopars this is not possible.

Different people at different agencies have different attitudes on "learning" this and understanding what an "SO number" is.

Some will accept it, and some will not.

67’s have a number on the rad support and on the left rear support below the taillight, these match. I think the fender tag number also matches. I can take pictures, in case I am wrong.

 

[YY1]

Is it the VIN, or the SO?
I'm 99.99% sure it's the SO.
FL law specifies it MUST be the VIN.

Again, this is just a heads up from my personal experience with a possible sticky point in my state.

That was "only" an out of state car that had been dormant for decades, and not a "no title" car.

The Notary we had do the verification was a family friend, and she listened to (and understood) my explanation of the VIN vs SO number on pre-1968 Mopars.

I had previously tried to explain at the DMV and they couldn't be bothered.
I could tell the person lost interest after the first 2 sentences and stopped listening.
When I was done explaining they simply said- "No it has to be 2 VIN locations".

 

[68BabyBlue]

I've dealt with Pennsylvania for the majority of my collector car registrations and titles, and the procedures have shifted over the decades. In the old days, imprints of the VIN were a requirement, and photos were required for antique/classic tags. Physical verification has gone away with the advent of modern computer systems. However, a clean title has become all important. This is one reason all my GTXs have been numbers matching cars with documented history - a car traveling this road doesn't pick up clouds on title along the way. Speaking from personal experience, it is possible, but extremely difficult to register or title a bill of sale car in my state. I work through a tag and title service rather then the DMV directly, which helps spot issues before they become a problem.

 

[440 4 speed]

Is it the VIN, or the SO?
I'm 99.99% sure it's the SO.
FL law specifies it MUST be the VIN.

Again, this is just a heads up from my personal experience with a possible sticky point in my state.

That was "only" an out of state car that had been dormant for decades, and not a "no title" car.

The person we had do the verification was a family friend, and she listened to my explanation of the VIN vs SO number on pre-1968 Mopars.

I had previously tried to explain at the DMV and they couldn't be bothered.
I could tell the person lost interest after the first 2 sentences and stopped listening.
When I was done explaining they simply said- "No it has to be 2 VIN locations".

You are correct, it is the SO. Thanks

 

[MoparLeo]

Instead of second or third hand information, just contact the DMV or equivalent in the states that you are dealing with. Straight from the horses mouth. Sometimes hard to get info sometimes but that is the best source.
Some insurance companies like AAA have DMV services for their members.

 

[RemCharger]

When I was done explaining they simply said- "No it has to be 2 VIN locations".

This is where you'd want to go home, stamp it into the car somewhere and go straight back,
"Found it. Now gimme my plates"

 

[beanhead]

Instead of second or third hand information, just contact the DMV or equivalent in the states that you are dealing with. Straight from the horses mouth. Sometimes hard to get info sometimes but that is the best source.
Some insurance companies like AAA have DMV services for their members.

 

[1STMP]

Instead of second or third hand information, just contact the DMV or equivalent in the states that you are dealing with. Straight from the horses mouth. Sometimes hard to get info sometimes but that is the best source.
Some insurance companies like AAA have DMV services for their members.

Therein lies the problem. You may
have to talk with three or four
different horses before you find
one who's knowledgeable and is
willing to go the extra mile. I've
brought printed procedures in with
their required paperwork and they will
still refuse to process, citing some
obscure reason.
There's also the problem of them
giving you incorrect requirements.
In my case, as you pointed out, I've
gone to my insurance company
to get my vehicle titled. An added
expense, but a lot less frustration.

 

[1STMP]

My hope was for the moderators to
to create a sticky or a separate
catagory where fbbo members could
reference their state's requirements
for titling and or registering their
"drug from a farmers field" type
vehicle, or one that has been
reconstructed from salvaged bodies/
chassis/parts. Not so much personal
experiences, but actual links to
procedures for specific applications.

 

[MoparLeo]

As someone once said "Trust, but verify" Its your money, verify it yourself.

 

[1STMP]

As someone once said "Trust, but verify" Its your money, verify it yourself.

It's difficult to trust anyone who's
verification is all over the map.
Your common, everyday hot rodder
shouldn't have to rely on an insurance
company to get a title for your
project cars. I can read and
comprehend our DMV's
requirements. Evidently, they
sometimes choose to completely
ignore, or are completely ignorant
of those requirements. And no
amount of debate will sway what's
stuck in their head.

 

[JackR]

Every state is different. NY was easy when I lived there. California wasn’t so easy.
Arizona has procedure in place I’ve used several times including my roadrunner. I bought that with no title. Had to get a vin search/inspection done by state police first. Done at the DMV. Then DMV inspection. Had to buy “bonded title” insurance. The unfortunate part is they use middle bluebook value regardless of actual car condition and that determines how much the title insurance costs. Mine was $550.00. Then DMV issues the bonded title, the bonded disclosure on the title remains there for 1 year I believe.

 

[1967coronet]

In Iowa....

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Go to....Online ServicesDriver's License/IDDriver's EducationMotor CarriersCommercial Vehicles/CDLRegistration & PlatesBuying & SellingMotorcycles/ Mopeds

Make an appointment - Choose “Vehicle & Motor Carrier Services – NO DL/CDL Services” when making your appointment. (These services are available in Ankeny only.)

If you must come into an Iowa DOT-operated service center, you will need to make an appointment.

BONDED CERTIFICATE OF TITLE​

If your vehicle cannot be titled or registered by a county treasurer because you do not have the proper title documents, you may be able to file a bond as a condition of obtaining a title and registration plates. However, a vehicle issued a junking certificate cannot be reinstated through the bonding procedure unless the vehicle is 25 years or older, ref. Iowa Code 321.24. Submit the following to the Iowa DOT's Office of Vehicle & Motor Carrier Services, P.O. Box 9278, Des Moines, Iowa 50306-9278.
To avoid processing delays please submit the following required supporting documents:

• An Application for Registration and Bonded Certificate of Title for a Vehicle form, completed and signed.
• A copy of any written document received at the time the vehicle was acquired, such as a bill of sale or cancelled check.

The Iowa DOT will:

• Determine whether there is an active title record or junking certificate record on file for the vehicle in the state of Iowa. If a record is found, the department shall notify the owner of the record by first-class mail, at the last known address, that an application for bonded certificate of title has been received. The notice shall include a statement in which the owner of record may assert their right to claim the vehicle or to waive any further claim. If the department receives no further response from the owner of record within 10 days after the date of the mailing or receives a waiver of further claim to the vehicle, the department will continue processing the bond.
• Determine the current value of the vehicle and require that a cash bond or surety bond, based on one and one-half times the current value of the vehicle, be filed with the department as a condition of issuing a certificate of title and registration receipt. The bond paper showing the current value of the vehicle and the amount of the bond will be sent to you to be completed and signed by your surety company representative and also by you as the principal. The signed bond must be returned to the Office of Vehicle & Motor Carrier Services. Cash bonds may be deposited with the state and are held for three years on a noninterest bearing basis, or you may purchase a surety bond from a bonding company licensed to conduct business in the State of Iowa. Fees to obtain a surety bond through a bonding company are set by the company. Please refer to the bonding company for the fee to obtain your surety bond.
• Send to the Iowa DOT's Bureau of Investigations and Identity Protection a bond receipt and a letter authorizing the county treasurer to issue a title for your vehicle. An investigator will contact you and make an appointment to verify that the information submitted on your application correctly identifies the vehicle that you own. Should your vehicle not meet the specific equipment requirements under Iowa Code Chapter 321, the investigator shall authorize the county treasurer to issue title and registration, and immediately suspend registration until such time your vehicle meets the specific equipment requirements. The investigator will give you the authorization letter that you must take to your county treasurer’s office within 30 days of written authorization from the department, make application for certificate of title, pay the appropriate fees and register your vehicle.
• Hold the bond for three years, after which time the bond will expire and there is no requirement for a bond.

DOWNLOAD APPLICATION FORMS​

• Application for Registration and Bonded Certificate of Title for a Vehicle (for manual completion)

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Have a Question?

 

[1STMP]

Thanks for your efforts 67coronet.
It took some time to compile this
info. Just the stuff we're looking
for.

 

[YY1]

Looks like a good place to add-

FL very recently started issuing "bonded titles".

But there is a catch- the last title issued for the car in question MUST be a FL title.

 

[cosgig]

Over the summer here in Michigan….

Drug the car out of the barn after 32+ years of dormancy. Took it right to the cop shop and had a cop take down the VIN and run it through the system. Nope, not stolen as I already knew. He filled out the paperwork he needed to and gave me a copy.

Next I went to the SOS and got the form to fill out for a lost title, and went to the local used car dealership where the guy appraises cars and had him do a write up based on pictures I had of the car. Took all of the filled out paperwork back to the SOS, turned it in and got my title in about 4 days.

 

[1STMP]

Looks like a good place to add-

FL very recently started issuing "bonded titles".

But there is a catch- the last title issued for the car in question MUST be a FL title.

Strange requirement. In NM, bonded
titles are issued based off of the serial
No./vin when no title info shows up
in their database.
Most DMV's purge their records on
an average of every 7 years of
vehicles that have not had their
registrations renewed, so the only
info (if any) available is thru a NCIC
federal serial No./vin check.