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A833 to a 383 Advice

Okay, so I need to find a Big block bell housing? 10.5”?
No, you need an 11" along with the flywheel & clutch ***'y. From what I've seen and been told, the 11" bell housings are cast iron and the 10.5" bell housings are cast aluminum. a quick visual way to identify size.
 
The bellhousing match engine size, BB versus SB, but the real match is with flywheel. The bellhousing matches FW dia so starter works. If you have an 11" FW (143 Teeth) you need the earlier 68-69 bellhousing. If you want to use a 10.5" FW (130Teeth) you use the 70 up Aluminum BH.

Clutch can be varied as some 11" FW have holes patterns for both. The 10.5" FW will only accept the smaller clutch, or the 11" scallopped.

The other thing is matching up Z bar. Brewers web is a good reference for seeing an understanding the parts match.

The bearing retainer on the trans does need to match the BH. Some accepted smaller dia (SB) while later BB had the larger dia retainer. There is an adapter ring sold to match small dia retainer to Large Dia BH. While 2 dia retainers for Non overdrive, there are 4 different ones. Both dia can be internally sized for 308 or 307 bearing.

Since your set up was on SB I believe you have smaller diameter retainer, and probably have to go with an adapter, or find a large ring that is internally sized for 307 bearing. This is harder to finde, as it was an early hemi style if I remember correctly.

Confused yet:)
 
Okay, so I need to find a Big block bell housing? 10.5”
Bellhousing and flywheel are dependent on each other and must be matched. If you already have a 10.5" flywheel then find a 10.5" bell and vice versa. If you have neither then grab the first bell you find at a reasonable price the buy the flywheel to match.
(10.5" flywheel has 130 teeth - 11" has 143)

Also measure the retainer hole. You'll likely want that to be 4.80" dia. to fit your retainer.
 
The bellhousing match engine size, BB versus SB, but the real match is with flywheel. The bellhousing matches FW dia so starter works. If you have an 11" FW (143 Teeth) you need the earlier 68-69 bellhousing. If you want to use a 10.5" FW (130Teeth) you use the 70 up Aluminum BH.

Clutch can be varied as some 11" FW have holes patterns for both. The 10.5" FW will only accept the smaller clutch, or the 11" scallopped.

The other thing is matching up Z bar. Brewers web is a good reference for seeing an understanding the parts match.

The bearing retainer on the trans does need to match the BH. Some accepted smaller dia (SB) while later BB had the larger dia retainer. There is an adapter ring sold to match small dia retainer to Large Dia BH. While 2 dia retainers for Non overdrive, there are 4 different ones. Both dia can be internally sized for 308 or 307 bearing.

Since your set up was on SB I believe you have smaller diameter retainer, and probably have to go with an adapter, or find a large ring that is internally sized for 307 bearing. This is harder to finde, as it was an early hemi style if I remember correctly.

This is the clearest and best advice I've seen posted.
 
You need a big block bell housing. You can use a 10.5 or 11 inch clutch depending on the flywheel you get. I use to run a 10 .5 scalloped clutch it bolted on the 10.5 flywheel but was able to accept a bigger disc. As mentioned make sure shifter location is correct. And they have several diameter input bearing housings with the OD units having the biggest diameter. Brewers had some adapters and different housings to do most swaps, plus they have a wealth of knowledge. Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists
 
Okay, I think I have it now. Luckily I don’t have the flywheel or Clutch yet so I will just track down whatever BB bellhousing I can find, and then get the flywheel to match as suggested above.
 
?? Why does he need and 11"?? 383's used both 10.5 and 11 depending on year .
To be honest, I was only repeating what I've been told as I'm in the process of swapping out a slant 6, 3-spd with a 10.5" set-up. I should have been clearer about that before offering my 2 cents.
 
To be honest, I was only repeating what I've been told as I'm in the process of swapping out a slant 6, 3-spd with a 10.5" set-up. I should have been clearer about that before offering my 2 cents.
That's the problem with this site ... people who really don't know what they're talking about offering advice !

The thread should have ended with Dragon Slayer's post.
 
That's the problem with this site ... people who really don't know what they're talking about offering advice !

The thread should have ended with Dragon Slayer's post.

You should practice what you preach. That or go do something useful like piss in the wind.
 
I am the original owner of a 1969 Charger with 383 HP and A833 tranny. The engine has been removed and sent to the machine shop for rebuild after 178,283 miles. The gearbox is also out.
I saw the note above in the Dodge workshop manual and mentioned it to the machinist who is rebuilding the engine. He said the offset dowel pins are not needed. I respect his opinion since he has previously rebuilt two engines for me (not Chrysler engines).
Does the note in the manual (now with the machinist, so I don't have it available) refer to matching up a non-original tranny and engine? So, it wouldn't apply to re-mating the original tranny to the original engine?

Thanks!
 
Correct. If the bellhousing and engine came together from the factory you don't need to align them. If no problems wouldn't bother. MO.
 
Correct. If the bellhousing and engine came together from the factory you don't need to align them. If no problems wouldn't bother. MO.
Well, it's almost obvious that the two should go back together without additional alignment measures, but as I recall it isn't specifically stated in the manual. Thanks very much for the confirmation, Fran.
You can check it during install to me safe
The bellhousing will go back on the engine and the gearbox to the bellhousing with the original fasteners. I would not have been concerned about alignment if it had not been for the instructions in the manual, which I apparently mis-interpreted.
My main concern at this point is whether I can get the tranny mated to the engine again without dislodging the new release bearing, which I did accidentally with the old one on removing the tranny. The attachment of the release bearing to the fork seems a bit delicate to me, compared to other cars I've worked on.
 
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