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I absolutely hate wiring a car.

Can't go wrong adding grounds to the job and don't skimp on wire size used for them. The ground is the return path for the system. Bigger/more is better. As an example, look at a late model vehicle. Grounds everywhere for a reason. On the front lamp/tail lamp units for many vehicles, they use a steel socket that is swaged into the cast housing. That is a major area for no grounding after many years. See if you can get a tab onto the steel housing to attach a ground to if possible. Francis makes a lamp socket that screws together and may be able for retro fit into the old housing. Something to check into.
 
Ron Francis kit told me to use strictly their new schematic. Throw the old one out! But there was no way anyone could do that completely. I kept the steering column and all the wires to and from were different so old and new helped a ton figuring that out! Wiring old cars is a chore to say the least! Looking back, I had a blast putting the brain to use figuring the best, cleanest way to undue the mess I had!
Yeah, the headlight wiring with the electric doors, headlight relays and all that is different on the 70 and the way it’s all tied in to the dash harness and was just way too much for me. The Ao1 light package like the ignition light in the steering column, the electronic ignition wiring may be different also. My brother used a Ron Francis on his 55 Chevy and he really liked it. A lot of good ideas on here also.
 
Can't go wrong adding grounds to the job and don't skimp on wire size used for them. The ground is the return path for the system. Bigger/more is better. As an example, look at a late model vehicle. Grounds everywhere for a reason. On the front lamp/tail lamp units for many vehicles, they use a steel socket that is swaged into the cast housing. That is a major area for no grounding after many years. See if you can get a tab onto the steel housing to attach a ground to if possible. Francis makes a lamp socket that screws together and may be able for retro fit into the old housing. Something to check into.
I appreciate that! Something I’ll definitely look in to and do. Most of the grounds like the battery to the buss bar, passenger side head to firewall, pass side frame to engine, drivers side frame to battery I used 4 gauge welding lead.
 
I moved the battery to the trunk which opened some space up front. Since I was adding things that would require clean power and ground so I put 8 relays in a small weather resistant box and put a fuse panel right on the lid. This gives a clean and separated 12 volt source for the ignition, efi and whatever else. I am also planning to use the extra relays to add into the headlight switch and led conversion is already done. This keeps relays close to power and ground and saves lots of space hanging relays all over the place.

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I moved the battery to the trunk which opened some space up front. Since I was adding things that would require clean power and ground so I put 8 relays in a small weather resistant box and put a fuse panel right on the lid. This gives a clean and separated 12 volt source for the ignition, efi and whatever else. I am also planning to use the extra relays to add into the headlight switch and led conversion is already done. This keeps relays close to power and ground and saves lots of space hanging relays all over the place.

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I seriously thought about taking the battery to the trunk but changed my my mind. If I can get some stuff cleaned up this weekend I’ll post some pics of my garb lol.
 
64fury74charger, is that a continuous relay mounted to the rad support? And if so, how does it come into play?
 
64fury74charger, is that a continuous relay mounted to the rad support? And if so, how does it come into play?
No it’s not continuous, I am really tired of having to replace the factory starter relay after 3 in a year or less. So I wired in the old style 2 post or Ford style as some call them. Easy to adapt and this is mounted on isolators so I have the original wiring for the neutral safety switch fully operational. This really makes 12 volt during cranking easy.

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Building a custom truck here. All wiring
is one color (black), same as military
vehicles (except white). I have fuse blocks mounted on a panel behind the
seat. This concept was taken from the
busses I helped design.
Each circuit is tagged with an
indestructible mylar number tag.
I, like you, really dislike wiring. I can't
imagine trying to sort out the rats nest
you're dealing with. I enlisted the help
from a friend who was able to
determine the loads required for each
circuit, and an alternator sized for
the demand, and then again, all
components of my build are brand
new. He even drew up the schematic.
Patience, I learned, is a must.20210130_091243.jpg
 
Yeah, the headlight wiring with the electric doors, headlight relays and all that is different on the 70 and the way it’s all tied in to the dash harness and was just way too much for me. The Ao1 light package like the ignition light in the steering column, the electronic ignition wiring may be different also. My brother used a Ron Francis on his 55 Chevy and he really liked it. A lot of good ideas on here also.
The RF kit was really thorough and went well, at least as good as could be expected I guess. Directions were good and wiring packs labeled really well. First time I’d ever been that far into a wiring project. I’d definitely buy the Francis kit again if I ever needed!

The folks here are top notch when it comes to ideas and thoughts and most of all knowledge!
 
be thankfull the wires are different colors and not all white with the little number tags on the end! I use to get boat hulls from skater with a 1" thick harness for multi engine gauge installation with all white wires! just about wore out my magnifying glass trying to read the numbers under the dash!
 
I look forward in to jumping back
in my wiring when I get home this weekend, NOT!!!
 
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