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Re-doing my drum brake system. What is the best choice for brake fluid nowadays?

Big Bad Dad

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Yes, I did a search, but most of the brake fluid threads are old. I'm going thru the brakes on my 67 R/T. I just took everything apart, and while there is less than 10K miles on it since I did the brakes before, it has also been over 25 years. There has been some condensation in wheel cylinders. I plan to replace all wheel cylinders and rubber hoses. The master cylinder was replaced about 12 years ago, so I have not decided on it yet. May pull it apart and take a look. Anyway, what do you guys think is the best brake fluid to use now? My cars mostly sit a lot, but I am hoping to drive them more now that I am retired and have time.
I have always used DOT 3, but wonder if one of the newer fluids would work better for me as far as not having moisture problems.
Thanks
edit: This is the original 11" manual drum brakes.
 
If not racing the car, do the work and put in 100% Silicone fluid. No more moisture and gummy junk
in the wheel cylinders. Silicone doesn't have an affinity for moisture.
 
Hey if it had dot 3 in it and and I mean any of the rubber had dot there in it don't go dot 5 Not comparable at all. It will swell the crap out of the rubber. Seriously. @mobileparts Ask me how I know and the insurance company

Hate to say this google it
 
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I just got done rebuilding front and rear brakes on my 67 500. I used DOT 5 silicone from Napa. Works great, but is a little pricey.
 
I put Silicone in all of my motorcycles and never had a problem. Clean, clean, clean!
 
Says he's going to replace the wheel cylinders and rubber hoses Ray... As long as he flushes the master and lines not an issue.
 
Seriously anything organic rubber. Still imbeded in ther. I thought it was BS also. Found out not in a good way
 
Seriously anything organic rubber. Still imbeded in ther. I thought it was BS also. Found out not in a good way
Even if flushing? What about rebuilding the cylinders with a kit to replace the rubbers? I wonder if rebuild kits are still sold for master cylinders? Hmmm... Rock Auto?
 
Hey if it had dot 3 in it and and I mean any of the rubber had dot there in it don't go dot 5 Not comparable at all. It will swell the crap out of the rubber. Seriously. @mobileparts Ask me how I know and the insurance company

Hate to say this google it
I've been told Dot 5 isn't good for older cars. I use Dot 4, and leave Dot 5 for the newer cars.
 
If you are going to keep the car for many years, have your existing wheel cyls & M/c either brass or s/steel lined. No more rust problems.
 
I've been told Dot 5 isn't good for older cars. I use Dot 4.
I've read your dodgy advice on other topics.
Dot 5 it is.

1 laugh 5.gif
 
9 years with DOT 5 in my 73 after replacing the MC, calipers, hoses, wheel cylinders, and brake-kleening and blowing out the rear lines.

Slightly more pedal travel but that could be because I also switched power boosters and didn't mess with the actuator rod.

...and my MC is still black, like I painted it 9 years ago.
 
9 years with DOT 5 in my 73 after replacing the MC, calipers, hoses, wheel cylinders, and brake-kleening and blowing out the rear lines.

Slightly more pedal travel but that could be because I also switched power boosters and didn't mess with the actuator rod.

...and my MC is still black, like I painted it 9 years ago.
So all new rubber then?
 
Makes sense. One thing good on dot 5 is it does not eat the paint. I went 4 wheel disk on my dart using jeep rear brakes. Changed all the lines, rebuilt the front calipers. Definately has its positives.
 
Question about this topic. What is it that reacts ? Is it something in the dot 3 that reacts with silicone in the dot5
 
Dot 3 or 4. Does'nt play well. Silicone is more or less inert.
 
Only "example" I have. This is a brake reservoir cover that was running DOT3 for 40 years and someone thought a quick top up with power steering fluid wouldn't hurt anything... maybe something the "enlargement" folks want to look into!
superbirdcleanup20182019 587.JPG
 
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