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727 torque converter drain back

TransGo shift kit has a new manual valve and a couple modifications that will cure the problem. Or as mentioned just slip it into neutral for a few seconds, fill the converter and then go into gear.
thanks. i have a part throttle kick down valve body i had in the car years ago with a tf1 in it. it drove fine and thought about sticking it back in but i don't think it cured the drain back. anyhow, i'll research this some. i've been working my butt off on this car trying resolve any kind of issue thinking i might try to sell my cars next year or so.
 
Been starting my cars up in neutral for years now....I even put them into neutral at stop lights, automatic or standards.
 
Been starting my cars up in neutral for years now....I even put them into neutral at stop lights, automatic or standards.
Speaking of which. The input bearing on the 833 in my 66 is a bit noisy. You can hear it when you slip it into neutral at stops.
 
Speaking of which. The input bearing on the 833 in my 66 is a bit noisy. You can hear it when you slip it into neutral at stops.
I messed up the rear case bearing on my /6 pickup I bought in 76....made plenty of noise in 1st and 2nd gear but was quiet in high. No side load in 3rd.....
 
My current car doesn’t do it, but it is overfilled at least a pint. Maybe more. No idea if it has a fill in park mod to the trans or not.
 
My current car doesn’t do it, but it is overfilled at least a pint. Maybe more. No idea if it has a fill in park mod to the trans or not.
Mopar auto transmissions do not 'check' in park since the pump isn't allowed to pull from the pan while in park.....fill point is always checked in 'N' and at operating temp. Once you establish that, you can let it sit and cool down then check to see where the level is and mark that to get a quick look but it can vary depending if the converter is allowed to drain back. Best to always check hot and in neutral.
 
Mopar auto transmissions do not 'check' in part since the pump isn't allowed to pull from the pan while in park.....fill point is always checked in 'N' and at operating temp. Once you establish that, you can let it sit and cool down then check to see where the level is and mark that to get a quick look but it can vary depending if the converter is allowed to drain back. Best to always check hot and in neutral.
Yes, that’s why I said I don’t know if it has the mod or not. You can make it fill in park if you want. I was just saying an overfill might make you not have a drain back issue. I’ve seen some cars do that and some not.

its been a very long time since I learned about the mod. Can’t recall what is changed.
 
No problem with my '62 pushbutton trans. It always starts in neutral :)

Had a '03 2500 Ram, 5.7 and it would drain back and overflow the dip stick tube. So I siphoned out a little and forgot about it. I would start it in neutral if it had been sitting for a week or so.
 
No problem with my '62 pushbutton trans. It always starts in neutral :)

Had a '03 2500 Ram, 5.7 and it would drain back and overflow the dip stick tube. So I siphoned out a little and forgot about it. I would start it in neutral if it had been sitting for a week or so.
Like I may have mentioned earlier, I have had Torqueflite Mopars since 71 and never had one with that issue until my 70 Swinger a few years ago and 1 of my 2 96 Dakota's. Strange how one does it and the other doesn't.
 
There is an anti-drainback kit you can fit to the transmission. I had the transmission guy fit one in my A100 727 a few years ago. I usually start in Neutral anyway to get the fluid moving, but I don't have to wait at all to get rolling if I want to move out fast....and my truck can sit for long periods of time between outings.
 
i think the key here is that initially the trans was designed for neutral starting. when mopar went to column shift/park starting they never did any redesign for park starting. seems like a small silly thing to have never addressed this.
 
I finally got the newer tf1 kit installed using a part throttle kickdown valve body. Unfortunately the whole thing is a no go. Car drives ok but slips on the 2-3 shift. I had this valve body in the car some years back using the old tf1 kit and liked it. Bummer. The newer kit is more invasive.

So I guess I'll let it sit awhile and go back to the 69 valve body Rick Allison did but try the newer manual control valve in it. I kinda think the newer manual control valve might be the key. I never expected the kit to be a 100% cure.
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It should have cured it. Can u take out the cupped restrictor. How many turns is the line pressure at? What lever is in the trans? How many turns is the band set at? Is the kd set to the max? Lots of things come into play. Kim
 
It should have cured it. Can u take out the cupped restrictor. How many turns is the line pressure at? What lever is in the trans? How many turns is the band set at? Is the kd set to the max? Lots of things come into play. Kim
I'm going to remove the cup (pain in the butt last time I did one). Kit comes with 2 different springs for the PR valve and they want the adjuster backed all the way off. stock lever; 3.2 I think. Anyhow I got the thing up in the air draing fluids to take it apart. I'm not chasing any performance here, just want the drain back improved.
 
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