Autoline Carb bog (video included)

[pjoll84]

Hi everyone,

Still tinkering with my new rig. 72 318 with a rebuilt autoline C6023 when I picked it up.

It has a slight hesitation if I mash the pedal at idle… in gear, it stumbles and almost dies if I don’t ease on to the throttle. Excuse the exhaust leak ticking in the video.

All suggestions appreciated and welcome

 

[pnora]

Try to advance the timing. Check the mechanical advance for being free and not sticking first.

 

[pjoll84]

Try to advance the timing. Check the mechanical advance for being free and not sticking first.

I’ll pop the distributor cap off and check the mechanical advance… as far as timing, I’ve got a timing light… shop manual says 2.5+- BTC for this engine on a van… so if I were to advance, would I be going closer to 0?

 

[pnora]

I’ll pop the distributor cap off and check the mechanical advance… as far as timing, I’ve got a timing light… shop manual says 2.5+- BTC for this engine on a van… so if I were to advance, would I be going closer to 0?

No. 7 to 10 btc is where I would start.

 

[pjoll84]

No. 7 to 10 btc is where I would start.

Thanks, I’ll give it a whirl this week. Appreciate the help!

 

[RJRENTON]

Hi everyone,

Still tinkering with my new rig. 72 318 with a rebuilt autoline C6023 when I picked it up.

It has a slight hesitation if I mash the pedal at idle… in gear, it stumbles and almost dies if I don’t ease on to the throttle. Excuse the exhaust leak ticking in the video.

All suggestions appreciated and welcome

WHO OR WHAT IS AN "AUTOLINE" CARB?? specific model C6023 as referenced. Who manufactured it.....its not OEM. What happened to the origional carb? The pix only shows the air filter canister.

Researching AUTOLINE....they are nothing more than a rebuilding company.......The C6024 is a rebuilt CARTER 1-1/4" BBD carb. The Autoline site lists the standard boiler plate wording: quality parts, cleaning, assembled with care, plus the warranty, its nothing special....just a std rebuilt carb. You would be better off having the origional carb RESTORED by a professional rather than an unknown rebuilder using any/all available parts....which are usually non compatible by origional application....and in this case, likely misapplied.....just becsuse it physically fits doesn't mean it will function correctly.......just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON

 

[pjoll84]

WHO OR WHAT IS AN "AUTOLINE" CARB?? specific model C6023 as referenced. Who manufactured it.....its not OEM. What happened to the origional carb? The pix only shows the air filter canister.

Researching AUTOLINE....they are nothing more than a rebuilding company.......The C6024 is a rebuilt CARTER 1-1/4" BBD carb. The Autoline site lists the standard boiler plate wording: quality parts, cleaning, assembled with care, plus the warranty, its nothing special....just a std rebuilt carb. You would be better off having the origional carb RESTORED by a professional rather than an unknown rebuilder using any/all available parts....which are usually non compatible by origional application....and in this case, likely misapplied.....just becsuse it physically fits doesn't mean it will function correctly.......just my opinion of course......
BOB RENTON

Hi, thanks for your input. I’ll post a picture below. The camper didn’t come with the original. As far as I can tell… the owner previous to the one I bought it from did a major tune up with plug wires, dust. Cap rotor etc and a rebuilt carb. It seems like they slapped it on and got it running.

Engine runs like a champ minus the bog (my experience with carbs have been mostly SU’s in minis and msg) so this is new territory.

So far I’ve triple checked all bolts, vacuum, mechanical advance is clear and working etc.

I’ve now dialed it in to idle at 800/850 when warm and 1000 at cold start up (Fast idle should be set at 1700 rpm?!? Says the shop manual)…. Shop manual also says this should be kicking around 750 rpm at idle but it starts to sputter anything lower then 800… sometimes it’ll just stall if I take it off the fast idle warm up too soon.

This makes me think it’s running lean and needs the fuel mixture adjusted, so I will try that and report back before I start messing around with timing.

Thanks for everyone’s input and comments

 

[pjoll84]

So my timing light I borrowed from a friend doesn’t work… however, I am happy to report that I spent the afternoon messing around with the carb and got everything dialed in… this thing was SUPER RICH with the idle mixture screws turned almost all the way out.

So I’ve got fast idle at 1200 (1700 in the manual seems nuts). Curb idle at 750 and in gear at 650. Purrs like a sewing machine and sometimes doesn’t even sound like it’s on!

I’m curious what a timing light will tell me but the stumble is gone as a result of the setup. Thanks for all your help and hope this helps someone else out. I’ll report back when I get a working timing light.

 

[YY1]

Accellerator pump adjustmant?

 

[RemCharger]

For those not in the know, or new to the automotive world, Autoline has been the go to top Remanufacturer auto parts supplier for 57 years. You can indeed send in your factory carb and have it restored/ remaned to original specs.

 

[gary h]

I like Autoline Reman. Carbs and Distributors. Not many choices anymore. Rockauto sells Autoline and it beats the Cardone garbage out there.

 

[pjoll84]

How long should a car stay in the fast idle set up before blipping the pedal to return to normal. I found last night that when the engine was cold and it was chilly outside, the engine didnt like the settings as much as I had done in the afternoon… Im going to try adjusting the micture screws out a half turn or so to see if that helps.

 

[RemCharger]

How long should a car stay in the fast idle set up before blipping the pedal to return to normal. I found last night that when the engine was cold and it was chilly outside, the engine didnt like the settings as much as I had done in the afternoon… Im going to try adjusting the micture screws out a half turn or so to see if that helps.

Mixture screws should be set for best idle at completely up to operating temps( after a good test drive)
Cold transitional settings should be done with choke adjustments.

 

[pjoll84]

Mixture screws should be set for best idle at completely up to operating temps( after a good test drive)
Cold transitional settings should be done with choke adjustments.

Thank you, is it fair to say I am not letting the engine warm up enough on a chilly day. My life in carbs have been limited to SU’s and my mg would have to sit running a minute or two in cold weather to really work at its best (20w50) didn’t help.

Choke functions really well, fast idle is set at 1200 and eventually releases from the step once warm…

 

[RemCharger]

Thank you, is it fair to say I am not letting the engine warm up enough on a chilly day. My life in carbs have been limited to SU’s and my mg would have to sit running a minute or two in cold weather to really work at its best (20w50) didn’t help.

Choke functions really well, fast idle is set at 1200 and eventually releases from the step once warm…

Yes, that would be fair to say. Sometimes the heat crossover needs to be cleaned out in the manifold, and or check the heat riser flap in the exhaust manifold. Both of those are important for proper warm up

 

[pjoll84]

Cheers!

 

[pjoll84]

As an aside, here is what the timing marks look like on the block. Is it fair to assume that the indents (or dashed line) represents 5 degree increments either BTDC or ATDC from the O in the centre? (and yes I plan on degreasing the engine lol)

 

[1967coronet]

Yes 5 degree , like allready posted advance it between 5 to 10 and see how it runs once you get a light.
Clean around the distributor base with some brake clean ect.
Make a referance mark with a marker or chalk before moving timing.
You can not really get a good adjustment on the air fuel settings or timing with a cold engine.
Glad you got it running better

 

[pjoll84]

Yes 5 degree , like allready posted advance it between 5 to 10 and see how it runs once you get a light.
Clean around the distributor base with some brake clean ect.
Make a referance mark with a marker or chalk before moving timing.
You can not really get a good adjustment on the air fuel settings or timing with a cold engine.
Glad you got it running better

Thank you, so to get it to around 7-10 BTDC, I’m turning the dizzy counter clockwise correct? (small block)… the vacuum canister is going to hit my ignore coil though

 

[1967coronet]

Yes to advance you twist counter clockwise , to get another 5 degrees or so I don't think you will hit the coil.
Roughly 1/4 " mabey 3/8 should be plenty.