Hey guys I have a bad female connector in the bulk head for the wire that is hot to the alternator I have it out my question is the original looks like brass but can u use the lighter modern day connector or should find a brass one
Bulk head connector
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You really should do the bypass trick from Mad Electric. There's a reason that it got hot! Next time
you might not be so lucky! CrackedBack on this forum also makes the headlight relay kits.
you might not be so lucky! CrackedBack on this forum also makes the headlight relay kits.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
No need for that… read the late thread about alt upgrade
Do they bypass the connection part all together? I thought about that mine never got hot and burned the tab broke off and pushed threw the bulk head I found a new one that will work but it's not brass
I misunderstood. Sorry. You can find the Delphi Series 56 connectors on EBay that specify that they are made
of brass. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I can't guess, but the brass connectors are available.
of brass. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I can't guess, but the brass connectors are available.
Back in the day I was tired of the ammeter connector overheating. I drilled through the cavity and spliced a wire in. The connector is just to provide a convenient point to assemble on the line and disconnect for repairs. I bet your bulkhead is half melted along with the connectors corroded black. Not the correct way to repair or restore, but it works, is safer than short circuits, and is more fun than popping the hood to wiggle the harness to get the damn ol' Mopar started.
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The bulk head connector is a fire hazard waiting to burn down a classic Mopar.
Re-wire it the Painless way.
Re-wire it the Painless way.
JDmac72chrgr
Well-Known Member
@toolmanmike has it right!!! Bypass "ammeter" all together or run new heavy gauge wire THROUGH connector. My 71 went up in flames, did what toolmanmike did, ran it right to "ammeter", no further issue, this was in 1981-82.
. Replacing entire harness on my 1972 build, not risking electrical fire: have a Mopar voltmeter, oil press & temperature that will be mounted on side of dash, fuel gauge & speedo will be only original dash pieces that will operate.
. Replacing entire harness on my 1972 build, not risking electrical fire: have a Mopar voltmeter, oil press & temperature that will be mounted on side of dash, fuel gauge & speedo will be only original dash pieces that will operate.
Very clean.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
Doesn’t need to go with painless wiring or any other either. EVEN LESS ABOUT MAD wiring mod Just read about firewall path, parallel wiring, bulkhead bypass ( which is NOT the ammeter bypass ), fleet alternator wiring Bypass… any of those keywords will take you to the solution.
Learn first, decide later.
As mentioned, the brass terminals can be replaced thought. The real packard/Delphi series used for our cars on those years is really 58 but they seems to be made by ”unobtanium” so, the 56 series serves quite good too.
Learn first, decide later.
As mentioned, the brass terminals can be replaced thought. The real packard/Delphi series used for our cars on those years is really 58 but they seems to be made by ”unobtanium” so, the 56 series serves quite good too.
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I hate to do this, but yes: another clarification post about all of this LOL. I've been reading multiple threads and links for about two weeks now. The info is scattered and some is written in a way that is tough to understand because some of the wordage used (english as a second language, etc). So, here I am.
I want to take some of the load off the bulkhead so it LOOKS like I want to:
1. Run a 10g wire, with 14g fusible link, from the starter relay, through a grommet in the fire wall, to the "battery" side of the ammeter.
2. Run an 8g wire from the "alternator" side of the ammeter, back through the grommet, then to the alternator pole.
This will take a lot of the load off the bulkhead, making it safter to operate with far less risk for overheating.
Does this sum it up? I'm looking to add wiring because I like having the ammeter as a reference point, along with the voltage display for the Sniper unit. I just don't want to melt stuff.
I assume bypassing the bulkhead would be even better, but I don't know how I'd get power to the gauge cluster otherwise, so I'll be happy with just taking some of the stress from it.
The picture, posted by a fellow member, that I'm using for reference:
I want to take some of the load off the bulkhead so it LOOKS like I want to:
1. Run a 10g wire, with 14g fusible link, from the starter relay, through a grommet in the fire wall, to the "battery" side of the ammeter.
2. Run an 8g wire from the "alternator" side of the ammeter, back through the grommet, then to the alternator pole.
This will take a lot of the load off the bulkhead, making it safter to operate with far less risk for overheating.
Does this sum it up? I'm looking to add wiring because I like having the ammeter as a reference point, along with the voltage display for the Sniper unit. I just don't want to melt stuff.
I assume bypassing the bulkhead would be even better, but I don't know how I'd get power to the gauge cluster otherwise, so I'll be happy with just taking some of the stress from it.
The picture, posted by a fellow member, that I'm using for reference:
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Brass will likely be a better conductor (lower resistance) than a plated steel fastner as the common grade of brass is 80% copper / 20% tin alloy where as a plated low carbon steel cadmium plated.......but it's your choice.......
BOB RENTON
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
I learnt later and updated the info where you probably took that diagram that with the propper alt able to source all the car needs at any speed, the existant red wire running throught the bulkhed can be eliminated. Better get all the power on batt side running throught just one fuse link than a double circuit with dual fuse link. Is safer.
Just a suggestion.
That's beyond my skill set lol I'm assuming you mean the fusible link that I have going from the starter solenoid and into the bulkhead. I can figure out which wire comes off the interior side, but if I get rid of it then I don't know how to get power to the gauge cluster.
Unless I'm just running my own, dedicated link/wire to the gauge cluster from the solenoid, and "going around the bulkhead", so to speak. Meaning I would cut the wire coming in, at the bulkhead/interior side, then connect the wire I have going to the ammeter now (I just wired that part up tonight) and, instead, connect it into the wire I just cut, leading to the gauge cluster.
So, I am then by passing the power going into the bulkhead fitting instead of running a parallel circuit.
I can figure that out, but then I don't know which wire to bypass coming back through the bulkhead
This is what I'm saying lol information is all over this forum and others. None of it's consolidated. It makes finding updated and proper information very difficult.
Before I run my wire from the ammeter back through the firewall and to the alternator, I will see if I can figure out the other wire going through the bulkhead from interior back into the engine compartment. If I can, I will get rid of those on either side and run my own wires.
Luckily, my gauge cluster's still out, so easy to make changes.
Thank you for the advice. I'll see if I can figure out how to do it.
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Just show everybody your calculations to support your premise including the sizing of the proposed "dual fuse link".....
BOB RENTON
I routed a 10ga. Wire straight through the bulk head connector also.
Several years back I had that same connection get hot.
Several years back I had that same connection get hot.
Did you do anything for the wire coming back out? Where did you connect the wire, inside the car? To confirm: you replaced the wire coming off the starter solenoid?
Thanks!
80/20 is 80% copper 20% zinc.
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I stand corrected......thank you ..
Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, but the proportions of each can vary to create different properties. The most common ratios are 85% copper and 15% zinc, 70% copper and 30% zinc, and 60% copper and 40% zinc. However, copper concentrations can range from 55% to 95% by weight, and zinc concentrations can range from 5% to 45%. Lead is also sometimes added to brass, usually at a concentration of around 2%, to improve machinability.
BOB RENTON
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