Side to side ride height question

[Dusty Dude]

Hello All,

I have just finished a complete rebuild of the stock front suspension on my '69 Coronet. All bushings are new, new caster/camber bolts, new ball joints, new shocks etc, etc. The car was lowered to the ground with the front tires resting on my home made 1/16" thick turntables in preparation for alignment. I set the the TB adjusters to the same measurement so all things should be as equal as I can make them side to side. I then jounced the car several times to settle the suspension on my makeshift turntables (two pieces of 1/16" PVC and some grease which work great) and began getting ready to set my ride height.
Measuring from the fender lip at the center of the wheels I have a difference of 7/8" side to side. My question is, is this normal to see this much difference or would this be an indication of a weak TB? My thoughts are to adjust each side a bit until I get the car level side to side and then set the height to where I want it. Your input would be appreciated as this is my first front suspension rebuild.
I do have a FSM and all the tools required to do the alignment and a full understanding of how to do it and what specs I want. Just haven't been able to find an answer to my above question.

Thanks in advance y'all.

 

[RemCharger]

Yes, set level and height by eye

 

[twecomm]

I recall reading somewhere that with torsion bar tension adjuster bolts totally backed off, there is a natural balance difference on the front wheels from weight of battery, ps pump &, steering column, and if so equipped A/C compressor. All these items being on drivers side will make it a bit lower than passenger side. I would get things equal first then set the ride height. Keep jouncing front end between height adjustments as you have been doing..

 

[Darter6]

Truth be told you set the ride height from the lower control arms at the T-Bar pivot point on a flat level area.
Or as close to flat. Should be in the service manual.

 

[Kern Dog]

There is the "correct" way as outlined in the service manuals, then there is the way that many people, maybe the majority of us do.
I measure to the highest point of the wheel openings.

I've been called out and criticized for doing it this way but when you're stuffing the biggest tires in the car that will fit without rubbing, this way makes more sense. My car is within 1/8" side to side but it has never been wrecked. No rust either. In short, I got lucky to have a car that was also at the good end of tolerance stack up. I was able to get over 4 degrees of positive caster with stock parts, and 5 1/2 degrees of caster with offset bushings. I've seen guys on the forums complain that their alignment guy could barely get any caster with their cars. I suspect that their results were due to the car being on the other end of tolerance stack up where even with the best bolt on parts, they'd never get much more than 3 degrees of caster.
Back on point though....
I've seen guys shim the springs to get the rear ride height equal. The torsion bar adjusters may need more turns on one side than the other to get equal side to side in the front. Not a problem, really. It is part of the game with these cars. It is a whole lot easier with torsion bars compared to coil springs.

 

[Dusty Dude]

I recall reading somewhere that with torsion bar tension adjuster bolts totally backed off, there is a natural balance difference on the front wheels from weight of battery, ps pump &, steering column, and if so equipped A/C compressor. All these items being on drivers side will make it a bit lower than passenger side. I would get things equal first then set the ride height. Keep jouncing front end between height adjustments as you have been doing..

Thanks twecomm. I did think about the items you mention adding weight to the driver side however that's the side of the car that is higher. I would think that the engine being offset to the passenger side would possibly balance some of that out.....maybe.

 

[WileE]

Measuring from the fender lip at the center of the wheels I have a difference of 7/8" side to side. My question is, is this normal to see this much difference or would this be an indication of a weak TB? My thoughts are to adjust each side a bit until I get the car level side to side and then set the height to where I want it. Your input would be appreciated as this is my first front suspension rebuild.
I do have a FSM

And this is exactly why you do an alignment by suspension points, not sheet metal, and not by "eye". You have a FSM, it spells out exactly what to do. Have you done that before using sheet metal as a reference point ?

 

[Dusty Dude]

There is the "correct" way as outlined in the service manuals, then there is the way that many people, maybe the majority of us do.
I measure to the highest point of the wheel openings.

View attachment 1700986

I've been called out and criticized for doing it this way but when you're stuffing the biggest tires in the car that will fit without rubbing, this way makes more sense. My car is within 1/8" side to side but it has never been wrecked. No rust either. In short, I got lucky to have a car that was also at the good end of tolerance stack up. I was able to get over 4 degrees of positive caster with stock parts, and 5 1/2 degrees of caster with offset bushings. I've seen guys on the forums complain that their alignment guy could barely get any caster with their cars. I suspect that their results were due to the car being on the other end of tolerance stack up where even with the best bolt on parts, they'd never get much more than 3 degrees of caster.
Back on point though....
I've seen guys shim the springs to get the rear ride height equal. The torsion bar adjusters may need more turns on one side than the other to get equal side to side in the front. Not a problem, really. It is part of the game with these cars. It is a whole lot easier with torsion bars compared to coil springs.

Thanks Kern Dog. I tend to agree with you that it's just the nature of these critters. The car is a west coast survivor that sat unlicensed for fourteen years so it's in great shape from a rust standpoint and it has not been wrecked. My guess is that the TB's are a bit tired and as you said there is always some tolerance stack up lurking in the shadows. I believe I'll end up about where you're at in you picture at days end.

 

[twecomm]

Assume new TB's ? Did not specifically see mention of that..

 

[Dusty Dude]

Assume new TB's ? Did not specifically see mention of that..

I did not replace the TB's. I suspect they have earned the right to be a bit tired by now.

 

[R413]

Set it close, then go drive it and your height will change amd need to be adjusted again. Don't tighten the LCA bolts and upper arm eccentric bolts until it is on the ground at ride height.

 

[j-c-c-62]

The drivers expected weight at some point is another factor, unless car is a drone?

 

[MoparLeo]

Ride height is not fender height.
Ride height is a precise suspension measurement needed to assure proper steering geometry. From the ground up.
The fender is sitting on top of the aprons. From the fender lip to the ground could be whatever the fender is aligned with.
Not precision body fit 50 + years ago. Tire is most likely not centered in the fenders or equal from left to right side either.

 

[wahya]

My car is slightly lower on the passenger side. I measured the height of front and rear wheel wells. I have rebuilt the front end components, including new tb’s. I put a bottle Jack under the leaf spring on the right rear and raised it about one half inch. This not only evened out the rear, the front also evened out. I have the original leaf springs, I suspect that the right side one is weaker than the left.

 

[Lefty71]

If you didnt check the ride height before starting work on the front end, you would'nt be sure if the car set properly before..... Bear in mind that one bad (or unequal condition anyway) of the leaf springs in the back is going to have an effect. Also, a previously wrecked car may be very difficult to get factory spec'd numbers.