Anyone know of a source for an “electronic” voltage regulator that puts out no more than 14.2-14.4 volts?

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Sounds like your alternator is “full fielded”, need to troubleshoot the field regulation wiring. Start by determining if the regulator in fact has control over the field current.

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

Sounds like your alternator is “full fielded”, need to troubleshoot the field regulation wiring. Start by determining if the regulator in fact has control over the field current.

Ok so if I remove the field wire and it does not drop the charge voltage the alternator is full fielded? But if it does drop then I would be looking at the regulator again? or something else?

I am hoping to get a few test ideas lined up so I can dive I to it tomorrow, if it does not drop replace the alternator correct?

What would be the next step if the voltage does drop?

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

After watching the provided video the shunt wire will be going in the trash thank you for posting that.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

If the field wire is removed from the regulator, you should lose all charging voltage. If that’s the case, the regulator is bad. If the charging voltage is still present, you have a field wiring issue. Verify the field wire is correctly connected as shown is the FSM. With that alternator and regulator combination, one field terminal on the alternator needs to be grounded, the other connected directly to the regulator.

 

[RJRENTON]

Correct, done by a local rebuild shop the case was also damaged. I will have to try that tomorrow. Bur the voltage was not consistent, it would have a high charge if i revved up he engine it would climb in volts to a mav of 18.6 then drop to low 17 high 16 after it idled down.

IF your system voltage rises as you describe, then the electronic voltage regulator is defective or it's not grounded properly. IMO....try a different voltage regulator as the existing unit may be shorted internally allowing full voltage to the alternator's field.....
You could measure the alternators field voltage to ground when in operation....typically it should be about 6-8 volts if the regulator is performing correctly.
BOB RENTON

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

If the field wire is removed from the regulator, you should lose all charging voltage. If that’s the case, the regulator is bad. If the charging voltage is still present, you have a field wiring issue. Verify the field wire is correctly connected as shown is the FSM. With that alternator and regulator combination, one field terminal on the alternator needs to be grounded, the other connected directly to the regulator.
View attachment 1733460

The alternator was rebuilt and the "secondary", "extra" field was grounded to the case by the rebuilder.

I have looked over the wiring it appears to be right, I am using a replacement yearone engine harness.

But I will recheck. Thank you for highlighting, sometimes hard to trace the wires in the FSM diagrams.

If the regulator is bad should I try another electronic or see if I can track down a mechanical?

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

I checked for ground and had only .04v DC voltage drop from battery to regulator case, where would I test with a mtimeter I assume to figure out the field voltage just the field wire terminal on the back of the alternator?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

If the regulator is bad should I try another electronic or see if I can track down a mechanical?

If it were me, I’d be converting to the ’70 and up regulator if I already had a dual isolated field alternator. Will need to un-ground the second field terminal, insure both terminals are insolated from the alternator case. Will need a regulator pig-tail and an extra wire run to the alternator for the ignition 1 field feed.

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

If it were me, I’d be converting to the ’70 and up regulator if I already had a dual isolated field alternator. Will need to un-ground the second field terminal, insure both terminals are insolated from the alternator case. Will need a regulator pig-tail and an extra wire run to the alternator for the ignition 1 field feed.

I don't have room on my fire wall for the 70 and later style though, with the factory ac.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

I don't have room on my fire wall for the 70 and later style though, with the factory ac.

Voltage Regulator Bracket 1970 B-Body, Voltage Regulators 1970-74, 160-VRB101 Reproduction, NOS and Used Mopar Muscle Car Parts

 

[Some Car Guy]

What’s wrong with running a shunt?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

What’s wrong with running a shunt?

The underhood shunt wire by-pass? see post #133

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

IF your system voltage rises as you describe, then the electronic voltage regulator is defective or it's not grounded properly. IMO....try a different voltage regulator as the existing unit may be shorted internally allowing full voltage to the alternator's field.....
You could measure the alternators field voltage to ground when in operation....typically it should be about 6-8 volts if the regulator is performing correctly.
BOB RENTON

It is my regulator, any recommendations on getting a replacement mechanical or electronic?

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

I don't have room on my fire wall for the 70 and later style though, with the factory ac.

I stand corrected I am going to try and stick with the oe style pre 70. If I cannot get that to work I will change to the 70-74? route. Thank you for the suggestion.

I also removed the shunt bypass, thank you for posting that video.

 

[Some Car Guy]

All that video was saying was don’t have a back feed that can burn the oe harness. It wasn’t saying you shouldnt run a shunt.

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

I do not have two correctly sized fusable links either easier for now to remove the shunt.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

All that video was saying was don’t have a back feed that can burn the oe harness. It wasn’t saying you shouldnt run a shunt.

You asked what was wrong with that shunt wire by-pass when installed as directed and promoted by many, with no or insufficient circuit protection and no other changes to the original wiring. It greatly increases the risk of an electrical fire in the event of a short, does not make this charging system safer by any means without further modifications. It is a band-aid fix as opposed to addressing any potential high resistance connection problems properly. The video goes on to show some suggestions on what it takes to run the by-pass safely for those who insist on running it rather than correcting or repairing any issues with the original wiring. I am aware of what the video says, I created it.

 

[Some Car Guy]

You asked what was wrong with that shunt wire by-pass when installed as directed and promoted by many, with no or insufficient circuit protection and no other changes to the original wiring. It greatly increases the risk of an electrical fire in the event of a short, does not make this charging system safer by any means without further modifications. It is a band-aid fix as opposed to addressing any potential high resistance connection problems properly. The video goes on to show some suggestions on what it takes to run the by-pass safely for those who insist on running it rather than correcting or repairing any issues with the original wiring. I am aware of what the video says, I created it.

I didn’t ask about a shunt without protection or what whoever is saying. You aren’t saying clearly it can be done in a way that is safe. That detail is buried in the “don’t do it” “dont do it.”

For TLDR and to make it clear- you are saying it needs to have a fusible link and be installed at same point as the factory did. At least I think that is what is at the very end of the video.

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

Replaced voltage regulator over charging condition is gone but now it only charges at 12.6 at idle without lights and 12.43 with lights and stays steady then slowly climbs up. So it appears I have yet another bad voltage regulator just on the opposite end. What brand of the pre 70s have you all used before or are currently using?

 

[RJRENTON]

Replaced voltage regulator over charging condition is gone but now it only charges at 12.6 at idle without lights and 12.43 with lights and stays steady then slowly climbs up. So it appears I have yet another bad voltage regulator just on the opposite end. What brand of the pre 70s have you all used before or are currently using?

What are the specs of your "squareback" alternator presently in service? What is the drive sheave diameter? Is it a 2 groove sheave? Will this alternator produce 14.5 nominal volts (+/-)? IF it produces the correct voltage, it is possible that it has an OPEN diode, which exhibits OK voltage but under load cannot produce the necessary amps, which results in lower voltage. As I've said numerous times, the MOPAR alternator is a three phase (3 phase) full wave bridge design that uses 3 positive diodes and 3 negative diodes. AN OPEN DIODE, either positive or negative type, will result in one half of the alternators output (low voltage and insufficient current)......it is possible that this is the case. The alternator must be disassembled to test individual diodes, they cannot be group tested....in spite of what the auto parts person tells you. If they take it in the back to "load" test it, inquire about the test and you want to witness the test against a published test procedure....if they cannot provide a test report or allow you to witness the test, they're just blowing smoke up your ***.......just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON