Does this look right!?
- Thread starter koosh
- Start date
Update:
I now have right and left rear signal lights, replaced one of the rear tailight sockets…was intermittent.
Front signal lights work-but are opposite to correct lever position…. In other words, turn on right signal, left front blinks and visa versa!
Brake lights- only right side work.
Still blows 20 amp tailight fuse when turning on headlight switch….
I again thank everyone here with their responses, im definitely gaining on it, not sure what route to take next…. That'll be tomorrow’s headache!
I now have right and left rear signal lights, replaced one of the rear tailight sockets…was intermittent.
Front signal lights work-but are opposite to correct lever position…. In other words, turn on right signal, left front blinks and visa versa!
Brake lights- only right side work.
Still blows 20 amp tailight fuse when turning on headlight switch….
I again thank everyone here with their responses, im definitely gaining on it, not sure what route to take next…. That'll be tomorrow’s headache!
Before i consume cocktails, i do have another question… the rear lamps (1157), which filament is for signals and brakes, which is for running lights?
Each bulb has a “tall filament “ and a “short filament “
Each bulb has a “tall filament “ and a “short filament “
Is it normal for 12 volts to SLOWLY dissipate down to 0 volts, when test lead is on the supply side of the fuse terminal marked “tail lights”?
No fuse installed, takes about a minute to go from 12v to 0 volts?
I still have no tail lights, fuse blows instantly headlights switch is turned on.
The same happens even with the wire connector is disconnected, the one located inside left kick panel, sending to rear of the car…
No fuse installed, takes about a minute to go from 12v to 0 volts?
I still have no tail lights, fuse blows instantly headlights switch is turned on.
The same happens even with the wire connector is disconnected, the one located inside left kick panel, sending to rear of the car…
Try sanding the fuse holder clips.
The short element is tail, but the bulbs only go in 1 way due to the nubs
The short element is tail, but the bulbs only go in 1 way due to the nubs
If it still blows fuses with the rear body harness disconnected, the issue is in the dash or forward lighting harness. I would disconnect the forward harness from the bulkhead, try again to eliminate the short being in the dash harness. Then start disconnecting side marker and forward turn/park lamps housings.
Look closely at the filaments, the thin filament is the tail and the thick filament is the brake/turn. I don't have a bulb handy but I think the tail is the tall one.
Ok, thanks for light bulb info, guess i was reaching for a simple fix.
Update:
After cleaning two or three connectors under the dash and inside the kick panel, I now have tail lights! So I have headlights, tail lights, side marker lights. Regarding signal lights, I now have left side signal lights right side dash indicator just stays on, no right rear signal lights. On top of that regarding brake lights….. I have right side only but no left side! This is absolutely nuts. If my memory serves me correctly, I had an issue with oddball lights here and there on a roadrunner years ago, I ended up buying a new signal light switch and everything got straightened out??? never believed that signal light switch would correct other lighting issues.
Update:
After cleaning two or three connectors under the dash and inside the kick panel, I now have tail lights! So I have headlights, tail lights, side marker lights. Regarding signal lights, I now have left side signal lights right side dash indicator just stays on, no right rear signal lights. On top of that regarding brake lights….. I have right side only but no left side! This is absolutely nuts. If my memory serves me correctly, I had an issue with oddball lights here and there on a roadrunner years ago, I ended up buying a new signal light switch and everything got straightened out??? never believed that signal light switch would correct other lighting issues.
SgtSuperbird
Well-Known Member
The turn signal light switch can jack up a lot of the electrical. You might want to check for melted/bad wires at the plug along the steering column. Just a thought...
One of the first things I did, but thank you
Current condition….
All running lights working- except dash lights
Signal lights working
Hazard lights-all work EXCEPT left rear(like the brake lights scenario)
Brake lights- only right side, while holding brake lights on, turn on right signal…. The right side blinks and left side brake lights come on!
Doesn’t this mean a new signal light switch needed?
Getting there….
All running lights working- except dash lights
Signal lights working
Hazard lights-all work EXCEPT left rear(like the brake lights scenario)
Brake lights- only right side, while holding brake lights on, turn on right signal…. The right side blinks and left side brake lights come on!
Doesn’t this mean a new signal light switch needed?
Getting there….
Yes
Getting back to it…..
Brand new signal light switch installed.
All lights lights working as they should-
EXCEPT still no dash lights , and now no taillights. Signal lights working great, flashers working great. Headlights, both high and low beam working great.
When i turn on the the lights, no taillights lights and the fuse for stop/tail lights blows.
Turning into a pretzel, i grabbed the multi wire connector on the back of the headlight switch to remove. Unbeknownst to me, there was a side clip to release it. So when i pulled, i pulled the back half if the switch apart!
Ordering new switch now…
HOWEVER, this seems to have been a lucky thing… look at the pictures of the inside of the switch, you can see an arch, and theres a matching arc on the switch housing!
Brand new signal light switch installed.
All lights lights working as they should-
EXCEPT still no dash lights , and now no taillights. Signal lights working great, flashers working great. Headlights, both high and low beam working great.
When i turn on the the lights, no taillights lights and the fuse for stop/tail lights blows.
Turning into a pretzel, i grabbed the multi wire connector on the back of the headlight switch to remove. Unbeknownst to me, there was a side clip to release it. So when i pulled, i pulled the back half if the switch apart!
Ordering new switch now…
HOWEVER, this seems to have been a lucky thing… look at the pictures of the inside of the switch, you can see an arch, and theres a matching arc on the switch housing!
One thing that really confuses the hell out of me….I’ve looked at that wiring diagram a hundred times, and i gotta be missing something…. There’s a connector behind the drivers kick panel. Wires come down from under the dash, thru the connector, and out to the back trunk area. One wire from that connector is black—-All 4 tail lights, the backup lights, the license plate light, and the 2 rear side markers ALL connected to a black wire. Disconnect that connector, run a continuity check on that black wire-both to under the dash, and out to the trunk have continuity to ground!!!! That makes NO SENSE to me! That black wire should power the rear running lights!
Off course it does, light bulbs are all in place. Your meter shouldn't be showing Zero though.... but a small ohm reading.
LowBikeMike
Well-Known Member
To run an accurate continuity check both ends of the wire must be disconnected. You are reading the ground thru the bulbs or other components in the circuit.
What should i set the meter at in order to get the correct reading?
And should i still be reading to ground on the dash side of that connector?
Maybe because meter is set incorrectly?
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