One wire alternator wiring question

[furious70]

Not sure why there's a pissing contest in here.

When doing a single wire, wire it to where your biggest consumers are wired so that it will sense the true load. Most of the time that's the big stud on the starter relay or a dedicated junction box you install. Do not wire to the battery without understanding the potential loss in voltage between your battery and your junction box in your specific car

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Not sure why there's a pissing contest in here.

Tipical… There are ppl who can’t share with and support different opinions and experiences.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Do not wire to the battery without understanding the potential loss in voltage between your battery and your junction box in your specific car

Forgot to add some about I allways say. Not to the batt having ammeter…

Not a problem having the ammeter bypassed and a propper batt-alt path.

And allways consider the path to the cab when bypassing the amm with just the tipical wire between alt and batt/starter relay stud. Make JUST this without consider the reason why make it, i.e: an already damaged bulkhead path, it means the cab is still getting juice throught a damaged (totally or partially) path to feed the main splice into the cab, but just shared by the original batt and alt wires into the cab.

Single wire/internal reg, or external reg, does matter. The one wire setup just clean up the wiring but doesn’t mean will actually give more power or not.

Two diff deals here, 1 is how the setup is and 2 is the juice able to feed. You still can get a single wire alt on a 65 amps alt, or a regular “dual field” alt able to source up to 100 amps. The power capacity is not a straight relationship to how it works.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Best of luck....and don't get too worried about the replies which I know are coming.

View attachment 1550399

I wasn’t noticed before this part of your reply LOL.

 

[kiwigtx]

I wasn’t noticed before this part of your reply LOL.

There were two threads with the same content running concurrently (electrical pun) - so I merged them.

 

[RJRENTON]

There were two threads with the same content running concurrently (electrical pun) - so I merged them.

The correct electrical terminology would be a PARALLEL CIRCUIT not to be confused with a SERIES CIRCUIT which would be a consecutive circuit....!!!....?? I guess it's a matter of semantics......
BOB RENTON

 

[Cranky]

Not you Bob.

Oh man lol

 

[Cranky]

The correct electrical terminology would be a PARALLEL CIRCUIT not to be confused with a SERIES CIRCUIT which would be a consecutive circuit....!!!....?? I guess it's a matter of semantics......
BOB RENTON

I'm thinking most of us know what the difference is in a 'parallel circuit' is vs a 'series circuit' is.....at least I do and I'm pretty 'dumb' on electrical stuff......

 

[RJRENTON]

I'm thinking most of us know what the difference is in a 'parallel circuit' is vs a 'series circuit' is.....at least I do and I'm pretty 'dumb' on electrical stuff......

Just a little bit of "ELECTRICAL" humor (a very little bit)......the only thing worse would be two (2) shorts in parallel or was that in series????
BOB RENTON

 

[kiwigtx]

Just a little bit of "ELECTRICAL" humor (a very little bit)......the only thing worse would be two (2) shorts in parallel or was that in series????
BOB RENTON

Two shorts in parallel would halve the bang.

Just my opinion of course.

 

[kiwigtx]

The correct electrical terminology would be a PARALLEL CIRCUIT not to be confused with a SERIES CIRCUIT which would be a consecutive circuit....!!!....?? I guess it's a matter of semantics......
BOB RENTON

Like I said....an electrical pun......probably could have done better it seems.

 

[RJRENTON]

Two shorts in parallel would halve the bang.

Just my opinion of course.

Or react like homosexual fuses.....they just "BLOW"......pun intended....??...
BOB RENTON

 

[RemCharger]

The unreasonable and unwarranted handing out of red x's never ceases to be amusing.

 

[JC Boatguy]

Please don't get mad at me for this. I just installed a new Powermaster alternator on the charger, and I just called their Tech Support. And he told me just add an 8 gauge wire from the back of the alternator directly to the battery. Didn't have to do anything else and it works super awesome.

 

[Snow Wolf]

Thank you everyone for the help. I went with the Painless wiring 200 one wire amp kit with 6 gauge wire and their fuse. I swapped the 200 amp fuse for a 75 amp.

 

[pnora]

Thank you everyone for the help. I went with the Painless wiring 200 one wire amp kit with 6 gauge wire and their fuse. I swapped the 200 amp fuse for a 75 amp.
View attachment 1573016

Nice.

 

[Jam72]

Sorry for the redundant alternator post, but I'm not very experienced with wiring and have read a lot yesterday trying to figure this out. I'm currently in the process of putting the rebuilt 383 back into my 1969 Road Runner and putting a new engine wiring harness. I won't be adding any electrical components and the car doesn't have A/C. I'm converting the alternator to a one wire 65 amp Powermaster unit. I understand running the new wire to the either the starter relay or direct to the battery, but not sure what to do with the original black wire. I've read where some people have removed the alternator wire connector and used the wire to continue on to the horn relay, others have simply taped the end off, and others have hooked this back up to the new alternator. I had the dash restored by Auto Instruments and they converted the ammeter to a voltage gauge. I will be unwrapping the new harness to remove the unneeded wires for the regulator and ballast resister. I've read a lot about bulkhead issues and don't want to cause problems. What would be the proper way to deal with the original black wire? If removing this black wire from that, is the wire with the fusible link from the starter relay sufficient enough to supply the guage cluster and lighting system? Thanks in advance for your help.

When redoing the wiring for my 72 Charger I found the kit was only for a single wire alternator so not totally compatible with OEM. To make the kit work with existing alternator was complex so I bought a single wire alternator (which Autowire said most car guys go with the single wire type). Wiring required by the kit is specific and has no black wire to the alternator which I assume is grounded by its mounting. The 6 ga red wire from the batt thru the mega fuse block and to the bulkhead is sufficient for the gage cluster, ignition and lighting. Auto Instruments may be able to help you with advice. Hope this helps - I won’t know how well my setup works until late next year when I get mine running.