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Are You Using Synthetic Oil?

Dibbons

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I just read online that the current synthetic oils on the market no longer pose a threat to rubber seals like in the past. Makes me consider synthetic oils for my three classic Mopars. But I have not yet shopped around to find if it would be beneficial economically.

 
I always use conventional oil in my old engines. I also add the zinc additive with every oil change. I was told years ago (maybe here?) that the synthetic oil is almost too slippery. It's made for tighter tolerances that our older engines don't have. If anyone knows more then please enlighten us.
 
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Yes, but be warned, it has no significant shelf-life IMO sealed sitting in original plastic jugs even in controlled ideal conditions, and nobody can explain why. It evaporates?
Hard to imagine it somehow is better suited to sitting in a crankcase with occasional use.
 
I use Valvoline (or Motorcraft if that's unavailable) 10/30 syn blend in everything except my 1.4T Ferrari engine which I had to downgrade to BMW spec 0w20.
 
No synthetic here.

No zinc additives. The shelf oil today has high detergent, and that fights you expensive bottle of zinc. So this means:

Buy the oil with zinc already in it, made for the job. Never any flat tappet cam failures.

Buy break in oil for a new engine.
 
5w30 valvoline synthetic here.. BUT... i seem to take my motor apart every 30 miles.. so.. no time to leak.
 
I will be.
Currently using the Lucas oil.
1749572275426.png

Because I have low miles on my recently finished Runner restoration.
I'll use it the rest of this year and then will be switching over to the Amsoil Z-Rod oil.
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My 360 engine has a solid cam (Isky) and needs all the zinc it can get.
Both oils have plenty.
I want to ensure the Crower lifters I have in the engine are doing their job and rotating as they should be before making the switch.

As a comparison, my wife's 1986 Mini Cooper uses the Amsoil 20w-50 Z-Rod oil.
Don't forget the manual transmissions in those cars share the same engine oil.
Every Mini owner has lambasted me telling me that the little 998cc engine needs the old dino oil 20W-50.

I called BS on that.

2 things happened when I switched to the Amsoil in the Mini
1.) I had to lower the idle - I assume the Amsoil was going thru the engine more efficiently.
2.) Having a 180* thermostat in it I can barely bring it to the normal heat range now.

My opinion is that synthetic is much better than any conventional oil.
Remember this - most conventional oils have paraffin in it - paraffin is wax. Once an engine is cold where does this paraffin stay in the engine?
I don't think synthetic oils have any paraffin in them.
 
Penn Grade Partial Synthetic in my 440.

I used a full Synthetic in my 2003 4.7 and the rear seal started leaking. Also the oil fill cap collected a lot of foam and buildup. Switched to partial synthetic and it cleaned off the crud.
 
I use nothing but Valvoline VR 1 in all my old engines. Previously I used Castrol GTX, but when they took the zinc out I switched. The last 3 flat tapplet engines I have built were broken in with the Valvoline VR 1 and no dedicated break in oil.
 
I switched to Joe Gibbs driven oil last year and actually saw a reduction in oil usage
 
Like @Jerry Hall I only use VR1, but if you do decide to go synthetic, Mobil1 15w-50 has 1850ppm of zinc specifically for flat tappet applications.
 
Penn Grade Partial Synthetic in my 440.

I used a full Synthetic in my 2003 4.7 and the rear seal started leaking. Also the oil fill cap collected a lot of foam and buildup. Switched to partial synthetic and it cleaned off the crud.
I believe "partial" claims without ever stating a percentage, intentionally, is a marketing rip off, that prays on the consumer.
I don't dispute your findings, just the lack of transparency on the company's part, and the fact there are no requirements that it be disclosed. That IMO is very telling.
Would be similar again IMO, to not disclosing octane ratings at the pump.
 
Being as I am an old fogey, I use conventional oil in my RR Clone, but a "blend" of oil in my 25 year old daily drivers. Except for my 73 "toy" I don't even change the oil in my 25 year old daily drivers. I pay some one else to do that as I am damn near 73 years old myself and I ain't layin on the ground no more for routine crap; as I'm still werkin cause I have to. it's too hard to get up again, lol! (gettin Old Sux!)
:lol:
 
Amsoil. High Zinc. Massages seals too.
 
Avoid all synthetics and avoid additives. Buy a well built conventional like Brad Penn. When you add any of the gimmick additives they fall to bottom. Good oils are blended to keep additives that are built-in from seperation, adding separate additives shows balance out and causes failures of formulation.
 
I am sorry, but I only use conventional oil when I self pleasure, synthetic is too thin, lol!
Okay moderators, banish me to bogeyland, lol!

:lol:
 
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Been using only full synthetic oil since 2009.
 
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