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Tapered axle Bearings on Green bearing axle

cj's mopar

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Can I swap back to Tapered bearings if I am running Moser axles with The Green snap ring bearing on my 69 Charger with 8.75 rear axle?
Are the bearings the same I.D.?
Has any body tried this ?
 
Yes the bearings interchange on stock axles. Will they on moser axles? Don't know but seems like they would.

Big question, does your differential have the centering pins inside? They stock axle bearings must have the center pins in place to adjust them and prevent leaks.
 
Yes I have the cross button on the diff .
I had to cut down the axles to fit this is how I know it is in there.
 
Ok good.

Why do you want to get rid of the green bearings?
 
If you go back to tapered bearings, your axles will then be too short, and you won’t be able to adjust the end play.
 
I think the car in your Avatar has tinker toy bearings.
 
If you go back to tapered bearings, your axles will then be too short, and you won’t be able to adjust the end play.
well I have my stock axles as well as the Moser. I there a way to compare -measure them before I switched the bearings .
And the reason is the green bearings worries the crap out of me I drive my car hard .
 
So you have stock uncut axles,, with stock tapered bearings, with the thrust buttons. I don't see the problem
 
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well I have my stock axles as well as the Moser. I there a way to compare -measure them before I switched the bearings .
And the reason is the green bearings worries the crap out of me I drive my car hard .
Please define what you mean by “hard”.
I think the bad comments about their longevity are exaggerated. I corner hard in my car and hammer on it a bit and in maybe 20,000 miles I’m on my second set. The first ones only lasted 8,000 miles and didn’t fail, one just started to squeak. These are not as good as the tapered bearings but they are not unreliable. You get warning before they fail.
 
KD not picking on you but 20k and on your second set? My car has original tapered rollers odometer say 78k and car is 57 years old. Green bearings= tinker toys.
 
The design of tapered bearings can last 300k thousand miles as they often do on truckers with constant lube systems. The idea of a green design was intended for short life span simple to provide a short distance straight line drive experience.. Cone bearings spread the tortional load out and they use rollers instead of ball bearing which allow the loading to be spread across the entire race surface "more surface area in contact" ball bearings have tiny surface to handle contact points
 
You know how there is always some regrets in life somewhere? Among mine was installing greens on the ‘63. I went maybe 1200-miles before the first set went to crap. I installed another set, a better design I gathered than earlier ones. I have around 4k on those, so far so good. I went through the effort to locate a ’65 rear to drop the tapered axles and put in a sure-grip. It was fine, just FINE, with the OEM style bearings for 15-years…then a buddy sold me on greens when I was restoring the car changing the gears (another regret). Why I did this I’ll never know…the kind of thing that did NOT need messing with. Now if I have to replace the 2nd set, I’ll need to find an adjuster plate as mine was damaged removing it. It will be back to the bearings ma mopar had. Lol, I have worse regrets, but they are mostly non-auto related.
 
You know how there is always some regrets in life somewhere? Among mine was installing greens on the ‘63. I went maybe 1200-miles before the first set went to crap. I installed another set, a better design I gathered than earlier ones. I have around 4k on those, so far so good. I went through the effort to locate a ’65 rear to drop the tapered axles and put in a sure-grip. It was fine, just FINE, with the OEM style bearings for 15-years…then a buddy sold me on greens when I was restoring the car changing the gears (another regret). Why I did this I’ll never know…the kind of thing that did NOT need messing with. Now if I have to replace the 2nd set, I’ll need to find an adjuster plate as mine was damaged removing it. It will be back to the bearings ma mopar had. Lol, I have worse regrets, but they are mostly non-auto related.
It's very easy when your ready. Don't beat yourself up let me know when your ready
 
You know how there is always some regrets in life somewhere? Among mine was installing greens on the ‘63. I went maybe 1200-miles before the first set went to crap. I installed another set, a better design I gathered than earlier ones. I have around 4k on those, so far so good. I went through the effort to locate a ’65 rear to drop the tapered axles and put in a sure-grip. It was fine, just FINE, with the OEM style bearings for 15-years…then a buddy sold me on greens when I was restoring the car changing the gears (another regret). Why I did this I’ll never know…the kind of thing that did NOT need messing with. Now if I have to replace the 2nd set, I’ll need to find an adjuster plate as mine was damaged removing it. It will be back to the bearings ma mopar had. Lol, I have worse regrets, but they are mostly non-auto related.
Yukon Gear has a bearing, seal, retainer, adjuster package. Timken bearings in the package btw. Scored one to replace the Greens installed by the PO. Since I'm not sure if he pulled the buttons out of the carrier, I bought a set of those too in case they're needed when I take it all apart.

IMG_7505.jpeg
 
I agree that the tapered are superior to any non adjustable replacement but these are not fragile and do not suddenly fail. As bad as I push my car, if they were junk, they would have failed sooner.
Starting from scratch, I’d go with the stock type. If you already have the ball bearing types in place, there is no immediate need to replace them. It really is that simple.
 
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I agree that the tapered are superior to any non adjustable replacement but these are not fragile and do not suddenly fail. As bad as I push my car, if they were junk, they would have failed sooner.
Starting from scratch, I’d go with the stock type. If you already have the ball bearing types in place, there is no immediate need to replace them. MIT really is that simple.
Kern im sure their a good set, problem is ball bearings. A tiny sliver rides on the race. Tapered has 100 times more surface area against a film of grease and ball bearing that ride true with no torsuonal load like in electric motors are superior in a car it's not possible. Sure their are exceptions but from a design point of view they don't come close
 
I am certainly not claiming the non adjustable bearings are better but mine have lasted awhile and the first set gave warning before they went. Did you read the level of concern that the OP had? It seemed to me like it was just shy of panic when there is no reason to be so concerned at this time.
 
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