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Radiator

A copper rad is always going to be weaker than an alum rad because the tanks are soft-soldered to the core....& soft solder is not very strong.
It depends on the base metal alloy (which alloy copper is bring referred to, as there are literally many different alloys, with 80/20 , tin copper, being most common) depending on application and there are several different alloys of "soft solder" with different tensile strengths and depending on the percentage of lead, tin, bismuth, zinc, and silver and different melting points. The solder can have different tensile strengths.......which can be stronger than the base metal alloy.......so your comment is totally incorrect about solder not being strong....without naming the alloy or base metal......do you know the alloys (base metal and solder) involved or are you just guessing?........
BOB RENTON
 
My comment is NOT incorrect. Name a soft solder that has anywhere near the strength of a brazed joint. Idiotic statement. The only 'solder' that has any real strength is 'silver' solder, which is totally different to 'soft' solder. They require different fluxes due to their composition. Soft solder melts at about 220*C, s/solder more than double that.
 
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It does. But trying to find a box is the hard part. Every place I've called said they don't have anything that size or they break them down. And im cheap, I don't want to buy a box cause that would defeat the free cost lol.
Then MAKE ONE !!!!
Dumpsters All Over Are FULL Of Cardboard
& Discarded Pallets….. FREE……..
Easy Peasy…….
Mopar2ya!
 
Post # 23 & the nonsense in post #22.

Alum brazing has three times the tensile strength of the strongest soft solder.

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My comment is NOT incorrect. Name a soft solder that has anywhere near the strength of a brazed joint. Idiotic statement. The only 'solder' that has any real strength is 'silver' solder, which is totally different to 'soft' solder. They require different fluxes due to their composition. Soft solder melts at about 220*C, s/solder more than double that.
I'm totally aware of the difference between solder alloys, as I use to work for a company that made solder.....albeit tin/lead based or silver alloy solders and the differences between types. Fluxes are important, depending on alloy and methodology but some alloys are furnace brazed under inert atmospheres.......nitrogen, cracked ammonia (dissociated hydrogen & nitrogen) or carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide. You comment does not reflect a generality but needs to be specific as to the work being contemplated.......it depends on the alloy and application.......
BOB RENTON
 
last radiator I got for my charger was glued together, (epoxy of some sort). Not very impressed with it. Just bit the bullet and talked to Bob at Griffen. Should have it in about a month.
 
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@Aron Gleason if you ever wanted to go aluminum, Auto City Classic makes this radiator that bolts right up, as does the factory Mopar shroud. Stamped to look more factory than any other aluminum rad I have seen, one of the reasons why I bought it. Other reasons can be found in this thread.

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I have one of those in my 70 GTX and it fit perfect. You can't even tell it's aluminum from just looking at the top and front. Factory shroud bolted right on.
 
The radiator that was glued was not from Griffen it was in my charger, trying to find the name of it on my old emails, was a friend of my wife that worked for them
Is Bob at Griffen gonna take back your radiator to weld it?

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I mis wrote it thanks for the catch. I should have got my charger radiator from Griffen
 
yep but there cool with a build date stamped in, Bob called me and asked when my car was built so it would coincide withe the radiator build, way good guy. around $1500.00
 
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