727 rebuild at home

[oldbee]

I made a 727 front clutch spring compressor tool from scraps I had laying around the shop. In the background is a Snap-On snap ring pliers. Expensive, but the phrase buy once, cry once definitely applies...

View attachment 1892503

That’s what I did way back when. Same pliers, probably never use them myself again.

 

[Geoff 2]

The benefit of the aftermarket book: has tips in it to make the job easier, plus 'tricks' that have been learned over time that can add durability/performance to the trans. These are NOT in the FSM.

 

[dvw]

I

Air checking doesn't make them work any better. It's just a test before it's in the car.

I quit air checking after the first few.

Front clutch on 727 I just lube them well, you can move the piston side to side while a slight push down and they go in easy enough. Clamps seem like a bad idea.

Been doing these 45 years. An old seal will push in by hand. I could count the number of new seals that pushed in on one hand. I used to freeze them with a zip tie around the seal. The clamp method works better. One turn at time on each clamp. As for air checking? It only takes one piston or sealing ring that doesnt seat right and a trans that gets put in the car to change that thinking. I mean it does take all of about 30 seconds if you have a hole in the bench before anything is reasembled in the case.
Doug

 

[JG71B]

Doing an air check not only is a test of function, it also helps seat everything to aid you checking end play/ runout, whatever it's called

 

[426Roadrunner68]

With the book you bought, follow it and you’ll be fine. Hole in the bench helps with assembling the rear clutch especially the piston with the inner and outer lip seals. I also stack up the front and rear drums on the pump and do an air check outside the case before install. If you run Teflon sealing rings on the reaction shaft support with a steel front drum only, they do not air check as well as stainless or iron rings at first, due to the lube in the ring lands hold the Teflon rings in place better. But once you get the rings to break free from the assembly lube, they seal really nice. I typically air check on the pump outside the case and once everything is installed in the case to ensure nothing is blocked and no lip seals or sealing rings got damaged during install. If your running aluminum front drum, you must run stainless or iron sealing rings on the reaction shaft support. Although I’m not as experienced as DVW and some others, I do build a lot of these transmissions with success in both street cars and all out drag cars.

RJ

 

[Mbrew]

Its nice to find another fellow who has done a few, its easy once you’ve done a few hundred .
“Door ease “ is your friend to apply to all the seals and rings .
Learned that over 40 years ago from my shop teacher who was a Chrysler tech as am i .
Assemble the pistons dry using only the door ease.
The factory tools are great if you can acquire or borrow.
The pump bushing and possibly the out put shaft bushing generally are the only two bushings that need replacing.
Do seek out a good an oldtimer he will save you a lot of time and grief .
Good luck !!

 

[mopar 3 B]

Good list here, but You don't need any slide hammers. First pic shows at the races on the pavement repair.

Thread a 3/8" bolt into the front pump holes @9 and 3 o'clock positions they are threaded, pry out pump body with a hook type prybar. A little bit each side and it's out in 5-6 prys. Last photo.

Bushing drivers a must, always put in front pump and forward clutch bushings.

View attachment 1891800

View attachment 1891801

I have used a front hub dust cover tool for years.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I have a whole drawer full of home made specialty tools.
But the best boughten tool was s hydraulic press.

 

[roadrunnerh]

I rebuilt a 727 for the first time a couple years ago using Tom Hand's book and a 1968 factory service manual. Lot's of guys on here have a lot of experience and good advice (way more than me).
You can do it!

 

[mopar 3 B]

I rebuilt a 727 for the first time a couple years ago using Tom Hand's book and a 1968 factory service manual. Lot's of guys on here have a lot of experience and good advice (way more than me).
You can do it!

Ton Hand knew his stuff. I attended one of his classes on 727 rebuilding. All his tools were home made.

 

[Mike meeks]

Use Babbitt bushings on the converter and tail shaft bushing

 

[Mike meeks]

Another thing before you tear it apart. Stand it up and check the end play before you even take it apart. It's especially important if you're doing a 71 or older with the narrow pump bushing to get it on the tight side of the factory spec .020 -.030