Introducing "Project Odyssey" a 1972 "Super Satellite"

[71Beeper]

Dibbons, do yourself a favour - see the 4 holes on the oil filter plate?
Drill 4 more holes like the existing ones - it will help with oiling....

 

[Dibbons]

Dibbons, do yourself a favour - see the 4 holes on the oil filter plate?
Drill 4 more holes like the existing ones - it will help with oiling....

I was contemplating that modification this morning but decided against it being it's just a temporary addition to the vehicle's end goal. I'll leave it up to the next owner if he/she so desires.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Rebuilt the 6139S ThermoQuad (1972 340 Auto application). The fuel wells that are attached with epoxy from the factory had not yet failed, so I left them alone for now. This model had the superior brass floats.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Checked cylinder #2 rod bearing clearance which appears to be .0015". Next we need to check piston to valve clearance.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Installed .040 over 340 piston/rod assemblies. i assume the pistons have offset pins since they pistons have four valve notches and a mark to indicate facing toward the front. Last photo shows special number 3 main cap bolt with stud used to brace the aftermarket extended oil pickup tube.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Cleaned the 72/73 intake manifold I plan to use with the ThermQuad using DIY Rust Remover Formula: 1 liter hot water, 100 grams citric acid powder, 60 grams sodium carbonate (not baking soda). I will need to fabricate another oil splash shield because it is missing. It appears the two fastener holes for the shield have been tapped for a 1/4" threaded bolt by a previous owner (factory used a tap-in thing called a "drivet"). First three photos after quick soapy water rinse. Other photos after twelve plus hours dip in rust remover, followed by outside coat of OSPHO, inside coat of WD-40.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Preparing the Kevko M301 five quart oil pan. I painted the bottom couple of inches with white epoxy appliance paint to monitor any damage if the bottom of the pan ever is dented/damaged (photo #5).

I filled it with five quarts of water to get an idea of the oil level when filled (photo #3). The updated/newer Kevko model I just found online (M301-W) has a "built-in" windage tray. The funny thing is, if I remember correctly when I purchased the M201 (with scraper and trap doors) it was recommended to install it without the factory windage tray!

Well, I sent an email to Kevko to ask them what their current thinking is regarding the windage tray with my older model. The vehicle will be street driven, with maybe one trip to the drag strip just to find out how it performs.

 

[Dibbons]

My '68 high performance 340 exhaust manifolds are in storage, so I will initially need to use the 318 exhaust manifolds. I was not sure whether to use the 318 or 340 exhaust manifold gaskets in such a mismatch, so I decided to fabricate thin steel 20 gauge "adaptor" gaskets as a kind of experiment (top and bottom in photo).

The port sizes of the adaptors are 318 port size. I will probably first try to use the adaptors alone without the felpro gaskets. I will keep my fingers crossed that we won't hear exhaust gas leaks.

I'm guessing the extra four holes on the bottom are to accommodate air injection models (which I obviously don't use)?

 

[Dibbons]

Well, I sent an email to Kevko to ask them what their current thinking is regarding the windage tray with my older model.

My question answered: "The windage tray is not necessary with this pan. It can be used in conjunction with minimal modifications, but is not necessary with the added oil control this pan offers."

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Torqued the ARP rod bolts to 50 ft. lbs. and the factory main cap bolts to 85 ft. lbs.

Installed a standard oil pump (Sealed Power 224-4166) with Kevko pickup tube (used a thread sealer on pipe threads). Intalled with new grade 8 bolts 3/8-16 (1.5" long) without washers (but used blue thread lock). At first, I torqued to 30 ft. lbs. but then increased to 35 ft. lbs. because looking up the torque specs I found both numbers listed (some listing showed 30, other listing showed 35).

Used a nylon lock type nut for the pickup tube brace but found the threads were not long enough to pass completely all the way through the nut (used blue thread lock). I did not use a torque wrench, snugged up by hand and "feel". The nut was 3/8-24 fine thread.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Installed the timing cover, water pump, and harmonic balancer (balancer pressed on using a long fully threaded bolt, large washers, and a nut--see photo #1). Water pump painted with RustOleum white appliance epoxy (kind of an experiment).

Installed the cylinder heads, painted with RustOleum black engine paint. After torquing them to the indicated 95 ft.lbs. I found I needed to take a break before re-torquing them a second time. I must be getting weak in my old age (70 next month). I used the "blue" FelPro head gaskets that came in the complete overhaul set. The #1 piston was about .009" above the deck if my measurements are correct.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Removed the water pump and harmonic balancer because there was an interference issue between the two (photo #1). Replaced them both with a used water pump and different used balancer. Made a timing tape from blue masking tape for the balancer (photo #2).

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Cleaning up some parts today. Cleaned and painted crankshaft pulley (took over and hour to scrape and scrub 50 years of grease/oil/dirt) and p/s bracket.

 

[Dibbons]

Update: Adjusted the valves (one quarter turn past zero lash), installed five quart oil pan (omitted factory windage tray per Kevko recommendation), pre-oiled bearings & valve train with drill (Castrol 10W-30), installed intake manifold (along with fabricated stainless steel heat shield), valve covers, and flex plate. Also installed four exhaust studs and four core plugs in cylinder heads.