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Introducing "Project Odyssey" a 1972 "Super Satellite"

Dibbons, do yourself a favour - see the 4 holes on the oil filter plate?
Drill 4 more holes like the existing ones - it will help with oiling....
 
Dibbons, do yourself a favour - see the 4 holes on the oil filter plate?
Drill 4 more holes like the existing ones - it will help with oiling....
I was contemplating that modification this morning but decided against it being it's just a temporary addition to the vehicle's end goal. I'll leave it up to the next owner if he/she so desires.
 
Update: Rebuilt the 6139S ThermoQuad (1972 340 Auto application). The fuel wells that are attached with epoxy from the factory had not yet failed, so I left them alone for now. This model had the superior brass floats.

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Update: Installed .040 over 340 piston/rod assemblies. i assume the pistons have offset pins since they pistons have four valve notches and a mark to indicate facing toward the front. Last photo shows special number 3 main cap bolt with stud used to brace the aftermarket extended oil pickup tube.

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Update: Cleaned the 72/73 intake manifold I plan to use with the ThermQuad using DIY Rust Remover Formula: 1 liter hot water, 100 grams citric acid powder, 60 grams sodium carbonate (not baking soda). I will need to fabricate another oil splash shield because it is missing. It appears the two fastener holes for the shield have been tapped for a 1/4" threaded bolt by a previous owner (factory used a tap-in thing called a "drivet"). First three photos after quick soapy water rinse. Other photos after twelve plus hours dip in rust remover, followed by outside coat of OSPHO, inside coat of WD-40.

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Update: Preparing the Kevko M301 five quart oil pan. I painted the bottom couple of inches with white epoxy appliance paint to monitor any damage if the bottom of the pan ever is dented/damaged (photo #5).

I filled it with five quarts of water to get an idea of the oil level when filled (photo #3). The updated/newer Kevko model I just found online (M301-W) has a "built-in" windage tray. The funny thing is, if I remember correctly when I purchased the M201 (with scraper and trap doors) it was recommended to install it without the factory windage tray!

Well, I sent an email to Kevko to ask them what their current thinking is regarding the windage tray with my older model. The vehicle will be street driven, with maybe one trip to the drag strip just to find out how it performs.

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My '68 high performance 340 exhaust manifolds are in storage, so I will initially need to use the 318 exhaust manifolds. I was not sure whether to use the 318 or 340 exhaust manifold gaskets in such a mismatch, so I decided to fabricate thin steel 20 gauge "adaptor" gaskets as a kind of experiment (top and bottom in photo).

The port sizes of the adaptors are 318 port size. I will probably first try to use the adaptors alone without the felpro gaskets. I will keep my fingers crossed that we won't hear exhaust gas leaks.

I'm guessing the extra four holes on the bottom are to accommodate air injection models (which I obviously don't use)?

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Well, I sent an email to Kevko to ask them what their current thinking is regarding the windage tray with my older model.
My question answered: "The windage tray is not necessary with this pan. It can be used in conjunction with minimal modifications, but is not necessary with the added oil control this pan offers."
 
Update: Torqued the ARP rod bolts to 50 ft. lbs. and the factory main cap bolts to 85 ft. lbs.

Installed a standard oil pump (Sealed Power 224-4166) with Kevko pickup tube (used a thread sealer on pipe threads). Intalled with new grade 8 bolts 3/8-16 (1.5" long) without washers (but used blue thread lock). At first, I torqued to 30 ft. lbs. but then increased to 35 ft. lbs. because looking up the torque specs I found both numbers listed (some listing showed 30, other listing showed 35).

Used a nylon lock type nut for the pickup tube brace but found the threads were not long enough to pass completely all the way through the nut (used blue thread lock). I did not use a torque wrench, snugged up by hand and "feel". The nut was 3/8-24 fine thread.

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Update: Installed the timing cover, water pump, and harmonic balancer (balancer pressed on using a long fully threaded bolt, large washers, and a nut--see photo #1). Water pump painted with RustOleum white appliance epoxy (kind of an experiment).

Installed the cylinder heads, painted with RustOleum black engine paint. After torquing them to the indicated 95 ft.lbs. I found I needed to take a break before re-torquing them a second time. I must be getting weak in my old age (70 next month). I used the "blue" FelPro head gaskets that came in the complete overhaul set. The #1 piston was about .009" above the deck if my measurements are correct.

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Update: Removed the water pump and harmonic balancer because there was an interference issue between the two (photo #1). Replaced them both with a used water pump and different used balancer. Made a timing tape from blue masking tape for the balancer (photo #2).

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Update: Cleaning up some parts today. Cleaned and painted crankshaft pulley (took over and hour to scrape and scrub 50 years of grease/oil/dirt) and p/s bracket.

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Update: Adjusted the valves (one quarter turn past zero lash), installed five quart oil pan (omitted factory windage tray per Kevko recommendation), pre-oiled bearings & valve train with drill (Castrol 10W-30), installed intake manifold (along with fabricated stainless steel heat shield), valve covers, and flex plate. Also installed four exhaust studs and four core plugs in cylinder heads.

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Installed the 340 "mule" motor, charged battery, set timing, and used the 318 Carter two-barrel carburetor with fabricated adaptor to use for initial start-up. I thought I had set ignition timing around 10° BTDC but motor did not want to keep running. So I installed the '72 Thermoquad I had rebuilt myself.

Still had problems trying to fire it up. I cranked it so many times, I began to worry about camshaft/lifter damage so I removed the intake manifold to inspect the lifters. They still looked virgin. Applied break-in lube and put things back together.

Then I messed with the timing again but only got it running after having re-oriented all the spark plug wires on top of the distributor cap. They remained in the same firing order, but indexed them one spot over. Finally got it started for about five minutes when coolant shot up and out of the radiator (I had left the radiator cap off). I shut down the motor.

Then I purchased a spring loaded TDC tool to determine how and why my ignition timing was so difficult to set correctly. I had recently replaced the harmonic balancer with another second-hand balancer that had the timing mark notch in a different location (for a model with a timing tab on the passenger side). This threw my ignition timing way off and I still can't believe I did not notice this discrepancy when I did the switch! (built my first Mopar small block in 1973).

I re-marked the balancer and set the timing correctly at about 10° BTDC using a remote starter switch and timing light after having removed the spark plugs.

Then I went to the trouble to remove the intake manifold a second time to inspect the hydraulic lifters again. I still found no visible damage. I re-applied break in lube on the lifter faces and over the top of the camshaft for a second time now.

I primed the carb by cranking for 15 seconds about 3 times with the spark plugs removed. Then installed the plugs and wires, squirted additional gasoline down the primary throat, set the choke and fast idle. This time after cranking for about one second the motor fired up and ran straight up to about 2,500 to 3,000 rpm. I ran it for ten minutes and shut it down. I did hear some valve train clicking. Need to break in the camshaft another 10 minutes tomorrow. I have not decided yet as to run it again as is or try to adjust the valves beforehand.

I initially had adjusted the hydraulic lifters cold using 1/4 turn past point of removing slack in the valve train (using rebuilt 273 adjustable rockers) using the Direct Connection chart as a guide that shows how to adjust two valves after rotating the crankshaft every 90 degrees. Being that I performed this procedure with the timing marks in the wrong place (as previously explained) it probably made my adjustments less than perfect.

This time I had filled the radiator to the top and replaced the radiator cap. A very short time after having shut down the motor, some coolant spilled from the overflow hose onto the ground (does not have a catch can/recovery tank yet).

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Idling after 20 minute camshaft break-in period thru dual side exhaust Purple Hornies muffers (Oregon 340 camshaft #2120):



 
Update: Repaired all the factory gauges which quit working due to the power wire falling off the voltage limiter. I was able to reach up behind the dash and remove the hard plastic cover over the terminal. Then I squeezed the female terminal to make it a tighter fit (the wire was just plain falling off due to its own tiny weight). Wire seems to be good and tight now.

Although grounding the fuel tank sensor wire at the tank makes the gauge climb quickly to full, on its own the gauge always reads empty. This morning while just passing the local Toyota dealership on a busy city street, I ran out of gas. I was able to pull out of the lanes before coasting to a stop. I had two gallons premium in the trunk, which really came in handy.

This afternoon I checked ohms on the still-installed sender in the tank and came up with 74 ohms (I believe Mopars should read about 73 ohms empty and 10 ohms full). Probably has a problem with the float. I hope the sender tool I sent for a long time ago will fit (it has eight notches-see photo). I have a new Abody sender rubber gasket, not sure if Bbody uses the same.

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Update: I installed an AEM Air/Fuel gauge and have been experimenting with idle mixtures and timing. Found my Pertronix distributor vacuum advance had failed. I have an Accel replacement on order (adjustable). The Pertronix billet distributor uses parts that fit a big block Chevrolet in case you didn't know. In the meantime, I borrowed the single points Mopar distributor from the 318 in our '65 Barracuda Formula S.

I also installed an old-school NOS Sun Tachometer I found online still in the box. Just have it sitting on the transmission hump behind the center console for now (It has no cup but is made for in-dash installation. Don't plan on exceeding 5,500 rpm very often so the 6,000 rpm tach should work out just fine.

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Update: Took the rebuilt 340 out for its first road trip (90 miles round trip). Runs great cruising (2,500 -3,000 rpm) but I still am wondering about the semi-wandering idle (900-1,000 rpm). Maybe that's normal for a camshaft with 52° advertised overlap like the 1968 340 manual camshaft?

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Update (for post #137): Finally removed the fuel sender float/pickup only to find the brass float I used to repair it a few years ago was full of gasoline. The pickup filter was wasted also. Replaced the float with a plastic version this time and replaced the filter screen. I re-used the rubber gasket. While de-rusting the metal ground strap in Evaporust I used a jumper cable to ground the gauge and found it climbed to just a hair above empty, which is about right (I did an ohms check before re-installing everything and found 78 empty and 8 full).

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