Lakewood Scattershield ID

[73RR4SPD]

Hello all,

Can anyone tell me where I can find the pn# for this scattershield? As well as identify the mini starter because I’ll need to get another.

Upon disassembly, (before car went in for bodywork) I noticed the nose had broken off the mini starter.

I have a 23 spline with this scattershield (think it’s Lakewood) 143 tooth flywheel.

512 stroker (mostly street but would like to hit the track after I beef up a few parts)

Just wanting to identify starter and scattershield to see if I have the correct parts to reassemble. Obviously, I’ll need a new starter but what kind? I have tti 2” headers with Victor heads, they say I can only use Rob mini starter but researching this forum, I know there are other choices.

I’m thinking I can’t hit the track with this scattershield because it’s been cut/or piece missing near the bolt hole (7-8 o clock position). Is it too old or could I get this fixed? It is a solid piece and I have the block plate PN#15765.

Thanks in advance!

 

[73RR4SPD]

Here’s another pic.

 

[j-c-c-62]

I have never seen one with a removable portion like that. It's kind of cool, but I doubt today it would certifiable.

 

[gkent]

Someone needs to explain how that thing would be uncertifiable. How is it any weaker today than when it was manufactured ?!?! Clean it up, paint it and go racing.

Use this starter:

 

[70Hemi-RR]

I would buy a new Lakewood scatter shield. Someone cut that to gain access to the throw out bearing/fork. I’ve personally seen a flywheel break on my buddy’s challenger. He was lucky he had a good scatter shield. As bad as it was deformed I doubt the one you have would have contained all the shrapnel.
Just my opinion

 

[gkent]

Also, I'm not so sure its a "Lakewood". I don't recall them making two-piece units. Ansen did. Also, my Lakewood block plate has a "louver" versus three holes.

 

[Daves69]

Someone cut that to gain access to the throw out bearing/fork.

Them sneaky guys from Lakewood cut mine the same way!
Just funnin'. They were sold this way.

Guessing the cut in the 7-8 position was likely header clearance. I use FWs on my Barracuda.

 

[radical rob]

Clean it and reinstall it.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I'd check if shield is centered.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Someone needs to explain how that thing would be uncertifiable. How is it any weaker today than when it was manufactured ?!?! Clean it up, paint it and go racing.

Nobody I read here implied it is weaker today. However, standards for certification I submit are more robust today than when it was built, if any certification was even existent when manufactured, and it is very difficult and a bit inefficient design wise to make a joint/connection more robust than just one solid piece. The case has yet to be made why/the importance for the bolted portion of the shield in the first place.
Any structural modification after certification technically voids the certification.
I hope this explanation is sufficient.
Would I use it, maybe, if I needed to, but would need a reason.

 

[33 IMP]

If YOU feel it's safe, clean it and run it.
Unless you are running regional or national events, I've never had a single tech guy crawl under my car to look at my scattershield.
"You got a scattershield?"
"Yep"
"Okay".
Sometimes they can see it from under the hood, then they don't even ask.
So basically you're running one for YOUR health and piece of mind.

And yes I've seen a flywheel come apart at the top end of the strip. Ugly, VERY ugly.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I don’t see a “cut”. Yes, Lakewood made a 2-piece big block scattershield (I’ve run one) Yours looks perfect from what i see (just dirty)

 

[Daves69]

....

 

[dodgeboy440]

I have never seen one with a removable portion like that. It's kind of cool, but I doubt today it would certifiable.

The removable portion is known as a
“ block saver”

Scattershields are specifically designed
To contain flywheel / clutch Explosions!

That “ removable portion “ you spoke of
Protects & shields the block from damage !

Ingenious design !

Mopar2ya!

John

 

[j-c-c-62]

The removable portion is known as a
“ block saver”

Scattershields are specifically designed
To contain flywheel / clutch Explosions!

That “ removable portion “ you spoke of
Protects & shields the block from damage !

Ingenious design !

Mopar2ya!

John

I think we have here a failure to communicate.

 

[j-c-c-62]

I don’t see a “cut”. Yes, Lakewood made a 2-piece big block scattershield (I’ve run one) Yours looks perfect from what i see (just dirty)

Interesting. I guess "perfect" here is a bit subjective.
Did it ever receive a SFI sticker?

 

[j-c-c-62]

If YOU feel it's safe, clean it and run it.
Unless you are running regional or national events, I've never had a single tech guy crawl under my car to look at my scattershield.
"You got a scattershield?"
"Yep"
"Okay".
Sometimes they can see it from under the hood, then they don't even ask.
So basically you're running one for YOUR health and piece of mind.

And yes I've seen a flywheel come apart at the top end of the strip. Ugly, VERY ugly.

I agree, but you are stating the obvious on both points.

 

[padam]

I agree with 33 IMP.
I’ve never had anyone look at mine.

Yours looks like it’s been modified. The almost have to be to be practical with an adjustable clutch.

Ad far as I know they have to go back to the mfg for re-certification, and they likely won’t do it if they didn’t do the mods. Plus the cost would be high.

I’ve said it before, the most important thing is a steel flywheel. They won’t be affected by heat checking like cast iron is.

High rpm + high pressure clutch is the big danger.

I think the rule books call for a scatter shield with solid lifters, so what does that tell you?

 

[Bird 426]

Block saver is the plate between the engine and the bellhousing, not the removable bottom. Whether it's certified or not, hell of alot better than the stock bellhousing.

 

[73RR4SPD]

Hey guys,

Thanks for all feedback, really appreciate it.

Still curious about the broken starter nose though, are there any compatibility issues with number of teeth on starter ring gear vs 143 tooth flywheel? I’m thinking there would be a difference in teeth mesh on a 130 tooth vs 143 tooth, or am I overthinking this and just need to get the Chrysler mini?