Seeking Auto Body and Paint Tips for my 68 Charger

[KohrtRacing]

As a long time racer I know full well that pretty paint and body doesn't cut lights or run the number so I've ignored it for many years, however, with the setup of racing where I want it to be for the time being and the offseason approaching, I thought I would get the jump before winter on finally getting the car pretty so I've begun body work and paint preparation.

For context of myself and the car's finished expectation I am a big DYIer however I have never painted a car before. I do not expect show car quality and it needs to be a paint job that honestly if I was to come back from a run and it's got a chip in it, I would have no stress. Fancy paint is a major anxiety increaser and I just don't think I'd even want that. AKA, The fenders will have tools on them However, as you can tell from the pics of the car, it needs some color love and I'm simply getting it protection + making it one color (Along with making it as good looking as I possibly can) with the hopes that I can do it under $1000. My father shot his Dart in the driveway growing up and it honestly looked great for it's intention even in black so I've been picking his brain and know in my head it's very doable.

The car has hail damage I want to fix so my game plan, if accurate, is to get to bare metal, epoxy primer clear low spots, guide coat, sand to find low spots, filler, sand again, guide coat, sand for low spots again, and then if fixed, move towards complete car epoxy primer and then shooting with a single stage paint. Epoxy primer for this car, the paint supplier says will be $200. $400 for the paint. Another $100 for reducer/hardener/fill and $200 for HVLP guns, drapes, etc. I ask a lot of questions and everyone I ask says you can make a vanilla paint look great with good body work, not the other way around so body is my focus.

My question is a very broad one but I'm seeking any tips/tricks from anyone who understands the context that I'm under (of the cars expectation and attempt under budget) and can give any thoughts to consider in the future. The one thing I do have is a lot of time and motivation with no disgust to work at it. I do plan on shooting this inside my garage with drapes when ready with a high-volume gun.

Another question I have is more on the paint side. The decision is not made but paint color is down to T7 Bronze, AA-1 Silver or B5 Blue. The car is likely to get a black vinyl top regardless of color. Understanding that it's single stage and will not be put on professionally is there a color of these that you think I realistically should be avoiding? Example, I considered a deep cherry red but because of my process, lack of skill, I'm afraid I simply won't be able to do it justice enough and it's going to look real bad. Maybe I'm wrong in that assessment.

Would love thoughts, opinions, tips, tricks you can share as someone who has gone through this process as I'm sure there are many here!

 

[mopar4don]

Watching with interest

 

[WileE]

I'd recommend avoiding a metallic color in your circumstance, you may wind up with tiger stripes. A solid white would be my first advice.

 

[Cop car wagon]

For a first time paint application with single stage paint, stay away from a metallic color.
For bodywork, plastic filler "bondo", sand, followed by, filler, guide coat, sand and filler. Get it close before ever applying primer.
On bare metal, filler adheres well. The idea of epoxy priming all bare metal is good, (like if all panels were blasted), but major sanding of bondo will cut it all back on the surface when sanding hail damage.
Finish the entire panel in filler before priming.
Bondo is easier to cut flat with 40 grit. Bondo is easier to cut flat if the entire repair area is covered in one coat.
Once straight and level, the entire area needs a thin recoat to get rid of sand scratches. Cut scunge with 80grit and finish in 150, before primer.
I could go on.

 

[KohrtRacing]

For a first time paint application with single stage paint, stay away from a metallic color.
For bodywork, plastic filler "bondo", sand, followed by, filler, guide coat, sand and filler. Get it close before ever applying primer.
On bare metal, filler adheres well. The idea of epoxy priming all bare metal is good, (like if all panels were blasted), but major sanding of bondo will cut it all back on the surface when sanding hail damage.
Finish the entire panel in filler before priming.
Bondo is easier to cut flat with 40 grit. Bondo is easier to cut flat if the entire repair area is covered in one coat.
Once straight and level, the entire area needs a thin recoat to get rid of sand scratches. Cut scunge with 80grit and finish in 150, before primer.
I could go on.

The paint shop seems to be a big fan of filler going on the epoxy primer and not directly on to bare metal. I found this weird because I’ve never heard it to be bad to go to bare metal. It does adhere well? My filler spots are very few and small in size.

 

[KohrtRacing]

I'd recommend avoiding a metallic color in your circumstance, you may wind up with tiger stripes. A solid white would be my first advice.

We’re all the colors I chose metallic? lol

The paint shop said the same thing. They say they can mix up anything. Example: Is silver always considered a metallic? Could they not mix up a basic color non-metallic of what I listed?

 

[pnora]

As a long time racer I know full well that pretty paint and body doesn't cut lights or run the number so I've ignored it for many years, however, with the setup of racing where I want it to be for the time being and the offseason approaching, I thought I would get the jump before winter on finally getting the car pretty so I've begun body work and paint preparation.

For context of myself and the car's finished expectation I am a big DYIer however I have never painted a car before. I do not expect show car quality and it needs to be a paint job that honestly if I was to come back from a run and it's got a chip in it, I would have no stress. Fancy paint is a major anxiety increaser and I just don't think I'd even want that. AKA, The fenders will have tools on them However, as you can tell from the pics of the car, it needs some color love and I'm simply getting it protection + making it one color (Along with making it as good looking as I possibly can) with the hopes that I can do it under $1000. My father shot his Dart in the driveway growing up and it honestly looked great for it's intention even in black so I've been picking his brain and know in my head it's very doable.

The car has hail damage I want to fix so my game plan, if accurate, is to get to bare metal, epoxy primer clear low spots, guide coat, sand to find low spots, filler, sand again, guide coat, sand for low spots again, and then if fixed, move towards complete car epoxy primer and then shooting with a single stage paint. Epoxy primer for this car, the paint supplier says will be $200. $400 for the paint. Another $100 for reducer/hardener/fill and $200 for HVLP guns, drapes, etc. I ask a lot of questions and everyone I ask says you can make a vanilla paint look great with good body work, not the other way around so body is my focus.

My question is a very broad one but I'm seeking any tips/tricks from anyone who understands the context that I'm under (of the cars expectation and attempt under budget) and can give any thoughts to consider in the future. The one thing I do have is a lot of time and motivation with no disgust to work at it. I do plan on shooting this inside my garage with drapes when ready with a high-volume gun.

Another question I have is more on the paint side. The decision is not made but paint color is down to T7 Bronze, AA-1 Silver or B5 Blue. The car is likely to get a black vinyl top regardless of color. Understanding that it's single stage and will not be put on professionally is there a color of these that you think I realistically should be avoiding? Example, I considered a deep cherry red but because of my process, lack of skill, I'm afraid I simply won't be able to do it justice enough and it's going to look real bad. Maybe I'm wrong in that assessment.

Would love thoughts, opinions, tips, tricks you can share as someone who has gone through this process as I'm sure there are many here!

View attachment 1902373

View attachment 1902372

1,000.00 is not even close to what you will be needing. Along with the rest of the cars condition. You need to strip it down and get the paint off all of it. There are lots hiding and a ton of straightening and bump work.

 

[RJ Squirrel]

I am a big fan of SPI epoxy primer, easy to sand, fills well, has a shine to it so you can see where it needs work, and you can thin it for a final sealer coat. Get a 2 gallon kit, a gallon of filler and your finish paint/reducer/hardener and thats all you need besides sandpaper. A 2 gal kit is $300.
I use Automotive Art Eurofil filler - works well and inexpensive $38 a gallon

 

[KohrtRacing]

1,000.00 is not even close to what you will be needing. Along with the rest of the cars condition. You need to strip it down and get the paint off all of it. There are lots hiding and a ton of straightening and bump work.

What’s your guess? No labor. Just materials.

 

[WileE]

We’re all the colors I chose metallic? lol

The paint shop said the same thing. They say they can mix up anything. Example: Is silver always considered a metallic? Could they not mix up a basic color non-metallic of what I listed?

Yeah, your colors are all metallic. White, or a solid lighter hue would be my recommendation in your case. Beware of inexpensive paint, the pigments are low. You should know the solids content of the brands. I've used Dupont Chroma One in the past for my single-stage with good results.

 

[KohrtRacing]

Yeah, your colors are all metallic. White, or a solid lighter hue would be my recommendation in your case. Beware of inexpensive paint, the pigments are low. You should know the solids content of the brands. I've used Dupont Chroma One in the past for my single-stage with good results.

Good to know. Will do some researching!

 

[Kern Dog]

The more shiny the paint, the more the flaws will show.
You can do a base coat with a matte clear over it to get the color without the shine. This will make amateur bodywork look less bad.
B-5 is a great color. I had an AI program spec out this for me:

Note the matte finish...

 

[ckessel]

Try tcpglobal.com to get some prices for materials. They have a color library down to the early 1900's. You can have the option of single or two stage for your paint.

 

[KohrtRacing]

The more shiny the paint, the more the flaws will show.
You can do a base coat with a matte clear over it to get the color without the shine. This will make amateur bodywork look less bad.
B-5 is a great color. I had an AI program spec out this for me:

View attachment 1902494

View attachment 1902495

Note the matte finish...

I’m using chat GPT for mine lol

 

[Kern Dog]

Same here. That is how I made myself go from this:

To this:

 

[Ron Kirkpatrick]

Only two rules to body and paint.
1. Read the label on the can
2. Keep sanding.
I’ve been doing high end cars since 1979. How committed are you to doing a car? It’s not easy. But if you put your mind to it. You can.

 

[KohrtRacing]

Only two rules to body and paint.
1. Read the label on the can
2. Keep sanding.
I’ve been doing high end cars since 1979. How committed are you to doing a car? It’s not easy. But if you put your mind to it. You can.

View attachment 1902564

I feel like I’m fully up to the challenge. Maybe it’s my ignorance, confidence or likely my stupidity. I’m going for broke for this first one with Metallic but lots of body work is ahead. I’m expecting 200-300 hours of body work but maybe that’s on the short end.

 

[Black_Sheep]

I feel like I’m fully up to the challenge. Maybe it’s my ignorance, confidence or likely my stupidity. I’m going for broke for this first one with Metallic but lots of body work is ahead. I’m expecting 200-300 hours of body work but maybe that’s on the short end.

If you go ahead with a metallic paint, shoot the car assembled so the metallic orients itself uniformly.

 

[64fury74charger]

Have you considered vinyl wrapping instead of painting? I am definitely not any body work expert and my car is for my enjoyment and I drive it. I just wrapped it in a glossy color after 5 years with the matte 2 tone that I put on in 2020. All of my crappy prep work under the vinyl was still the same as when I first wrapped the car. She sits outside year round.

 

[1967coronet]

It's great your jumping in and giving this a try.
For you 1st job I know you want a metallic but you have a very good chance it will stripe on you. Silver and gold are the worst but all metallic paint can and will stripe if your not used to painting.
My 2 cents is pick a nice solid color you can live with.
Race car , I would say single stage and don't mix product brands once the spray guy comes out.
Remember each dent has a crown around it aka a raised area like the lip of a crater.
Those have to be worked down along with the dent being dollied or picked out.
Get some long boards for sanding and stick with them. Dura block makes a nice set.
Do not sand with your bare hand and fingers use the blocks.
Spread your filler past the area you think needs filled, when guys 1st start they just try to fill the ding over and over, drag the filler 5" past.
Evercoat makes some nice filler, I would start a new guy with their [ rage ] , Also I know red costs more but a nice bright red hides wavy body work better than most colors.
Good luck to you.