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Looking for power brake booster & master recommendations

The issues l have are:

Some previous owner put in the purple cam which caused the engine to not generate enough vacuum to properly fill the booster for proper breaking, so l had to install an external vacuum pump.

The guy l bought it from converted the front drums to discs and the shop that did that installed a new master cylinder and a non-OEM style booster, wish I had the original parts they took off.

The booster is not an OEM style booster and l want one to get back to an OEM appearance.

Based on post #3, l now feel my breaking will be more improved with the unit posted.

What is wrong with yours?
 
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Ok…. Looks like its a toss up between Dr Diff, and Pirate Jacks…I don’t see much difference between the 2, unless there’s some sort of discount being a forum member?
 
New master & booster ordered.
Seems like Dr Diff is extremely knowledgeable and helped me thru the ordering of correct parts …
Fingers crossed ill end up with none leaking great brakes!
Thanks to all for the input.
 
Cass is great to work with. Keep us posted on the project as I've decided to put in the right unit over the winter.
 
So what unit number did Dr Diff advise

So what unit number did Dr Diff advise and you ordered?
“Bendix Style Dual Diaphragm Booster
Options: Vehicle: '66 - '70 B-Body , Application: Add under dash linkage and stiffening plate (fits wedge engines only) (+$60.00) , Add Master Cylinder: 1 1/32" bore aluminum master cylider assembly (+$50.00)”
 
I am looking at the inline tube stuff. I had good luck with other parts I ordered from them, so was leaning towards their set up. Seems similar to the stuff that has been posted here.
 
That must be what is listed in Post #3 but I was not sure if the post was saying this was the one to use or not. Thanks for the reply.
 
No updates yet, had to travel day after receiving the Dr Diff items.
A tad disappointed though, was hoping to get instructions with it since I’ve never installed these in the past.
 
You started this post stating your
master leaks at the line connections.
Isn't that the main focal point of
failure?
Re-tap master (even if it means
jumping up a size on the fittings).
You're dealing with parts that are
more than 50 years old and god knows
how many times those parts have
been "brought back to specs."
I would assume what system you have
is able to stop the car except for the
leaking lines.....KISS....
 
You started this post stating your
master leaks at the line connections.
Isn't that the main focal point of
failure?
Re-tap master (even if it means
jumping up a size on the fittings).
You're dealing with parts that are
more than 50 years old and god knows
how many times those parts have
been "brought back to specs."
I would assume what system you have
is able to stop the car except for the
leaking lines.....KISS....
Not dealing with 50 year old parts….in post#1 shows brand new INCORRECT master and booster, a GM setup which original owner installed. Through research here, leaks occurred because GM master and Mopar steel lines do not mate…..keeping it simple
 
Any updates on this?
I purchased this setup from Dr Diff. Cass recommended it. Been away most of the summer but installed last weekend. Have not bled system yet, as am away again.

Bendix Style Dual Diaphragm Booster
Options: Vehicle: '66 - '70 B-Body , Application: Add under dash linkage and stiffening plate (fits wedge engines only) (+$60.00) , Add Master Cylinder: 1 1/32" bore aluminum master cylider assembly (+$50.00)”
 
IMG_1485 - Copy.JPG
 
Out of curiosity, where is the Bendix tandem booster assembly? The master cylinder assembly looks aftermarket not the one that goes with the booster.....looks like a GM master cylinder......or is this pix unrelated....????
BOB RENTON
That is a Mopar set up. Introduced in
the '80's with Dodges' Diplomat or
Plymouths' Volare.
Pulled mine from a Dodge Diplomat
police cruiser.
The dual diaphram booster is spec'd
for a mid 80's Chrysler New Yorker.
I'm running 4-wheel disc"s.

20200426_225049(1).jpg
 
Out of curiosity, where is the Bendix tandem booster assembly? The master cylinder assembly looks aftermarket not the one that goes with the booster.....looks like a GM master cylinder......or is this pix unrelated....????
BOB RENTON

Just throwing something out there as another option Bob…
 
As my car has a non bendex booster but I'm pulling the correct vacuum with the help of a vacuum pump due to the purple cam, if I changed the booster to a bendex would l see any improvement in breaking?
 
I have installed 2 of these on a Road Runner and a GTX they work great and look the part. Those like you have have been nothing but problematic. I have 3 of those style boosters taking up space in my garage.

Info:

Product Description​

New Reproduction Style Mopar Booster Conversion Kit

1966-1970 B Body Mopar Bendix Style Brake Booster Conversion Kit - Bendix type master cylinder for disc/drum and firewall plate/linkage.

Mopar used this type of booster on all of their car lines, except for the A-Body style cars. This booster as the most widely used and top option for both drum and disc brake applications. This kit replaces your booster unit with new parts and will fit Chargers, GTX, Satellites, Cornets, all other B-Body style vehicles made from 1966 to 1970.

This Kit includes:



  • Mopar Bendix Style 8" Dual Power Booster w/ Classic Trapezoid Nose!!!

  • Black Bendix Logo Style Master Cylinder with 1.125" bore & 9/16"-20 INV & 1/2"-20 INV WITH internal residual valves. Master Cylinder is brand new.

  • Firewall Backing Plate with Linkage


This Unit is designed to fit 1966-1970 Mopar B Bodies ONLY with disc front and drum rear brakes.

Brake Lines Exit On Drivers Left Hand Side.

(THIS UNIT WILL NOT FIT CARS THAT HAVE 426 HEMI MOTORS)



Bendix Style Mopar 1966-1970 B Body Power Brake Booster Conversion Kit BCK8536-1 OEM Style for 1966-70 Charger, GTX, Road Runner, Satellite

View attachment 1855020
What’s that linkage on the back of the booster? The reason I’m asking is that the prior owner put in a power disc brake conversion and the brake pedal is way too high. The brake light switch also is hanging up on the pedal sometimes.
1755906430550.png
 
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