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Reaction Shaft Bushing Removal

rklewis1005

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All, does the bushing look bad enough to replace? It's discolored but I don't feel any grooves. I have the bushing, but not sure how to extract the old one. Is my only option a chisel - not really a lip behind it to get a bushing driver in there.

Thanks in advance
Ross

PXL_20250917_183035722.jpg
 
FSM should show the correct tools and procedure on replacing it. There are other ways to get them out.
 
FSM should show the correct tools and procedure on replacing it. There are other ways to get them out.
Thanks - they suggest Tool SP-5324 and Cup Tool SP-3633. Not worth spending $60-$100 on tools I'll use once. I might go with a file/broken hacksaw blade to score it, and then collapse it a bit to the center to remove. Yes, I am considering leaving it alone..... *but* I have the bushing in the bushing kit :) .
 
Thanks - they suggest Tool SP-5324 and Cup Tool SP-3633. Not worth spending $60-$100 on tools I'll use once. I might go with a file/broken hacksaw blade to score it, and then collapse it a bit to the center to remove. Yes, I am considering leaving it alone..... *but* I have the bushing in the bushing kit :) .
That bushing would also fit in your spare parts storage:).
Mike
 
Thanks - they suggest Tool SP-5324 and Cup Tool SP-3633. Not worth spending $60-$100 on tools I'll use once. I might go with a file/broken hacksaw blade to score it, and then collapse it a bit to the center to remove. Yes, I am considering leaving it alone..... *but* I have the bushing in the bushing kit :) .
How many transmissions have you built? I've build at least one a month for years. There is nothing the matter with that bushing. Far more important stuff to worry about. Things that you may or may not know to check.
Doug
 
How many transmissions have you built? I've build at least one a month for years. There is nothing the matter with that bushing. Far more important stuff to worry about. Things that you may or may not know to check.
Doug
Not counting this one.... 0. I truly appreciate your very experienced input. I will likely skip replacing it.

While I have your experience available, what about the extension housing bushing? That also seems to be a PITA to replace based on other threads here. Does it normally require replacing?

As for things I may or may not know to check, there is an endless list of things I don't know yet. That's why I ask and am learning as I go. I'm working through the Tom Hand book (it's open on the bench - going step by step), I have the Carl Munroe 727 Handbook in PDF format that I refer to when stumped, and the Service Manual printed out nearby (yes, printed out). Additionally, I ask questions to people like you here. If I'm still not 100% sure, I call my brother (mechanic for 40 years) and my dad (another excuse to call him while I can) to get their opinions.

All that information I try to digest and then carefully take action. This whole project is a vast learning experience and completely different than what I do during the day. As such, I like being as thorough as possible and probably doing things I don't need to do - but I enjoy it.

However, in this case, I have to weigh my desire to replace it with the possibly of harming the reaction shaft. And since you (and my brother) have both said it's ok as is, I'll move on to more important things.

A long way of saying thank you for being persistent and telling me to leave it alone

Ross
 
Not counting this one.... 0. I truly appreciate your very experienced input. I will likely skip replacing it.

While I have your experience available, what about the extension housing bushing? That also seems to be a PITA to replace based on other threads here. Does it normally require replacing?

Ross
Do you mean the tailshaft bushing? The few I have rebuilt showed enough wear that I replaced it. It clocks in a certain way so fluid gets to it. Two jaw bushing remover will get it out.
 
Yes tail shaft / extension housing bushing. I'm not familiar with a "two jaw bushing remover" what does it look like?
 
Kind of like this. Mine has movable legs.
Screenshot_20250923_181913_Adblock Browser.jpg

This is obviously for a disassembled tailshaft (no output shaft).
 
After you get this one rebuilt you will be ready to tackle some Ford and GM units! Torqueflites are the simplest transmissions out there. So simple the Ford C-4 is almost a direct copy, the sincerest form of flattery.
Mike
 
not all the tail housing bushings wear. But it is one that needs to be looked at. Install it in the correct rotation. Many of the new bushings will be too tight on the yoke. I use a spare yoke to bunish them to size. The pump bushing is the most common that needs to be replaced. Make sure to stake it and trim the raised burr around the stake.
Doug
 
How many transmissions have you built? I've build at least one a month for years. There is nothing the matter with that bushing. Far more important stuff to worry about. Things that you may or may not know to check.
Doug
Not counting this one, 0. I truly appreciate your very experienced input. I will likely skip replacing it (but that new bushing is really tempting).

While I have your experience available, what about the extension housing bushing? That also seems to be a PITA to replace based on other threads. Does it normally require replacing?

As for things I may or may not know to check, there is an endless list of things I don't know. I'm working through the Tom Hand book on the bench (going step by step), I have the Carl Munroe 727 Handbook in PDF format that I refer to when stumped, and the Service Manual printed out nearby (yes, printed out). Additionally, I ask questions to people like you here. If I'm still not 100% sure, I call my brother (mechanic for 40 years) and my dad (another excuse to call him) to get their opinions.

Thanks again
Ross
 
How about this bushing? The old one is narrow, but the new one is wider with the grooves. Is that fine or should I be reusing the old narrow one? There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the old one.

PXL_20250924_103906162.jpg


PXL_20250925_112106908.jpg
 
@dvw Do you know if the above newer/wider bushing is ok - or do I need to put the original back?
 
@dvw Do you know if the above newer/wider bushing is ok - or do I need to put the original back?
If the original bushing is to be replaced, you must replace with one of the same dimensions. There was a change to the wider bushing due to a wider mating area on the rear of the stator support. The later models also require square cut (face) hooked end seal rings (usually) silver in color. The older design used hooked end seal rings with beveled face corners (usually) black in color.
Mike
 
If the original bushing is to be replaced, you must replace with one of the same dimensions. There was a change to the wider bushing due to a wider mating area on the rear of the stator support. The later models also require square cut (face) hooked end seal rings (usually) silver in color. The older design used hooked end seal rings with beveled face corners (usually) black in color.
Mike
Thanks - so it sounds like I have an "early" model.

You're talking about the seal rings that go on the reaction shaft (they hook together on the ends)? Do I need to go back and check what came in the rebuild kit and use originals if the new ones are "flat" vs "beveled"?

Sorry for the additional questions, not clear in the book or FSM.

Ross
 
Thanks - so it sounds like I have an "early" model.

You're talking about the seal rings that go on the reaction shaft (they hook together on the ends)? Do I need to go back and check what came in the rebuild kit and use originals if the new ones are "flat" vs "beveled"?

Sorry for the additional questions, not clear in the book or FSM.

Ross
Most rebuild kits include both style rings.
Mike
 
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