• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Headlight switch hot to touch

Morrie01

Active Member
Local time
9:29 AM
Joined
Aug 18, 2025
Messages
35
Reaction score
26
Location
New Zealand
Drove about 40mins to town today with the lights on. Went to turn them off and the switch was hot to touch.
Ive only owned the car for about 3 weeks so working through issues as they arise.
I played with the dimmer knob about a week ago and blew the fuse so havent touched that since.
Obviously thinking the first place to start is to have a look behind the cluster and check all connections and then go from there.
Any ideas.please?
 
Hot = resistance. Possibly a bad connection in the switch itself. Others here may have more knowledge on where to look first but I would test the resistance of the headlight switch with a multimeter. It should be 0 ohms.
 
Ideally maybe, but nothing has zero resistance, but the main point here is the lower resistance, the less heat generated with current flow. And as a side note, resistance also in most cases increases with temperature, and so does oxidation of most metals which also slowly increases the resistance in any connection, leading to even higher temperatures. One of the small advantages of using larger gauge wire, it acts as a passive heat sink to help keep nearby connections cooler.
 
Yes, check the connections and “probably” need a new headlight switch or rebuild yours. That’s a dangerous place to have a short since there’s no fuse to save your wiring in the headlight circuit
 
Yes, check the connections and “probably” need a new headlight switch or rebuild yours. That’s a dangerous place to have a short since there’s no fuse to save your wiring in the headlight circuit
I also installed a relay kit, and felt uncomfortable running such a high current power lead unfused to the front of the likely to be damaged area even in a minor front end fender bender. So I fused it.
Typically, I changed course mid project and converted to lower amperage LEDS. :BangHead:

P1010397 headlight fuse.JPG
 
Don’t overlook the firewall bulkhead connections in your search. I apply De-Ox cleaner and a light application of No-Ox (light bulb grease) on the spade of any connection I take apart as a precaution to connector resistance. But blowing the fuse with the dimmer adjustment could indicate the interior of the switch is in bad shape.
 
Yes, check the connections and “probably” need a new headlight switch or rebuild yours. That’s a dangerous place to have a short since there’s no fuse to save your wiring in the headlight circuit
Don't all Mopars in our eras have a circuit breaker in the headlamp switch?
Mike
 
I would certainly just replace the switch, not all that expensive and readily available on E bay for $ 50.00- $ 60.00 US range. Inspect wires going to the switch connector for signs of heating or poor contact, also inspect the wire to connector pin crimps. Same goes for bulkhead connector.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. I live in New Zealand so normally in bed when you guys are posting.
Will let you know what's up once I get time to have a look.
Need to sort the water pump bearing and one of the exhausts first before I tackle this switch.
 
Heat at the headlight switch? Too much headlamp current for what the stock switch and wiring was designed for. Replacing the switch isn’t going to fix it. What headlamp type are you running? Likely have some wire warming going on as well in the stock 16ga headlight wiring and experiencing a high level of voltage drop at the lamps. Relays are the solution, get all that current off the stock wiring, dimmer switch, and bulkhead terminals altogether. Really don’t need to buy a kit, fairly easy install from scratch if possessing any rudimentary electrical skills.
 
Last edited:
Many posts about our 60’s era cars electrical systems that discuss alternator upgrades, bulkhead bypass, amp gauge bypass, relays for headlights and LED conversion. All suggesting various changes to the stock electrical systems of these cars.
Thought it would be interesting to research some facts on the published specs for the incandescent lamps these cars came out of the factory with as well as some modern optional LED lamps available as substitutes / replacements for what was factory supplied. You probably never thought much about the wattage and current draw of these stock lamps, I know I never really did until I started doing some research. Based on these published specs,decisions on what LED types would be the best choice for brightness and reduced current draw without making any changes to a cars stock electrical system was helpful. Among the various manufacturers, spec sheet data for similarmodel incandescent lamps had some small insignificant differences that are really not relevant.

Note: Values shown for are for a single lamp. A- is current draw in amps at 12.8 VDC

4001 “Sealed Beam” lamp 50.0 watt 3.90 A

4002 “Sealed Beam” lamp 37.50 watt 2.92 A

H-4001 “Halogen” Lo beam 50.0 watt 3.90 A

H-4002 “Halogen” Hi beam 110.0 watt 8.59 A


Holley “Retro Bright” LED headlamps

Lo beam 25.0 watt 1.95 A

Hi Beam 30.0 watt 2.34 A


1034 Dual filament, Tail & rear turn and fnt amber marker/turn signal

Lo brightness 8.3 watt .648 A

Hi brightness 23.0 watt 1.79 A


1157 Dual filament, Tail & rear turn and fnt amber marker/turn signal

Lo brightness 8.30 watt .648 A

Hi Brightness 26.80 watt 2.10 A

There are many variations of LED lamps that directly replace either a 1034 or 1157 incandescent lamp. Typically, the LED replacement specs vary from 1.5 to 3.8 watts. They have lower current draw for the brighter filament for turn signaling and braking. On average, that current is below ½ Amp for a single LED lamp. For my 66 Charger, I decided on these Red LED’s (link below, available on Amazon) to replace the six across tail lights, I retained the incandescent 1157’s on the front ambers because that, along with the 3 LED’s on each side was enough current draw that the original mechanical-thermal flasher worked as normal and changing to an LED flasher unit was not required. Your situation may not be the same as mine with a lower tail lamp count or less less current draw unto the flasher unit. These red LED’s decided on are at least 2 x brighter in daylight than the incandescents were.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLXYDM4C?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Also many variations on LED headlamp offerings available. I chose the “Holley Retro Bright” as they were truly “Plug N Play” for my Charger and required NO mechanical or electrical modifications. Not cheap though ! Significant increase in light output and choice of color temperature, available in cool white or warm white. The latter is much closer to that of the 4001 & 4002 incandescent headlamp. They are significantly brighter. too. https://www.holley.com/brands/holley_retrobright/

If you are looking to upgrade to get better day and night visibility for your classic, LED’s are the way to go. I have been very pleased with the changes made to my 66 Charger.
 
For headlight current comparison, prefer my own measurements over the “published” current draw specifications for various lamp types. Some are quite a bit off the published numbers.
Retrobright current comparison.jpg
 
There should be a circuit breaker in the switch.
The circuit breaker in the switch isn’t going to prevent long-term heat build-up at the switch or other related stock headlight circuit conductors or terminations due to excessive lamp load current. Takes quite a bit of current to trip that breaker when it’s in good order.
 
Just a thought do you guys have a fire extinguisher on board and where do you mount them? Ie out of site but accessible.
 
I keep a Halon type under passenger seat. The nozzle is just flush with front edge of seat so it's easy to get to. Probably would also fit under drivers seat as well..
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top