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Hydraulic Roller Cam Button End Play

LSS&B

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I have installed a hydraulic roller cam in a 440 that I am building.
I have 440 Source cam button 200-1170, nylon.
I have a stock timing cover that I primed with Rustoleum High Heat Gray, then baked.
440 source recommends endplay .005-010" (distance from cam to back of timing chain cover). Seems tight.
Is that the end play spec you generally use?
Length of button, front to back as pictured in .5 inches. Timing chain cover will not seat against block.
I am thinking of grinding down cam button in small increments, then using Play-Do on front of cam button with the timing chain cover test installed.
Anyone have the length front to back of a cam button that fits?
Is there a better way to measure this clearance?

Thanks
20251107_165112 cam button on cam gear.jpg

20251107_163604 TCC does not sit flat with cam button.jpg
 
The Comp Cam ones seem to fit darn near perfect. The factory cover distorts pretty easy. You'll want to brace it ive had luck with the big washer trick, then shave to fit behind the installed waterpump. As far as tolerance, best case scenario is just enough for oil film. So their numbers are generous.
Are those ARP bolts?
 
You could use play-doh to check clearance, but we used this stuff (reprorubber) at work.

Reprorubber®

Also, I'm not sure those bolt heads are going to clear your cover...don't trim your button yet.
 
I had the back cam plug out " water freeze plug", and used a dial indicator. I also used the roller bearing cam button, not the nylon. The stock cover flexes quite easily. You won't have what I used to fill the space between the water pump housing and the timing cover. I used flox and epoxy resin, but you could use JB Weld. Scuff the water pump housing so that it will stick to it and wax or very thin tape on the cover. Crush your pump housing gaskets or torque them. You only need to to fill the gap to about the size of a quarter of half dollar. .010 is about right.
Less expensive than the $400. dollar cover.
Sorry, this picture was supposed to go to another thread!

20231120_193141.jpg
 
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I had the back cam plug out " water freeze plug", and used a dial indicator. I also used the roller bearing cam button, not the nylon. The stock cover flexes quite easily. You won't have what I used to fill the space between the water pump housing and the timing cover. I used flox and epoxy resin, but you could use JB Weld. Scuff the water pump housing so that it will stick to it and wax or very thin tape on the cover. Crush your pump housing gaskets or torque them. You only need to to fill the gap to about the size of a quarter of half dollar. .010 is about right.
Less expensive than the $400. dollar cover.
Exactly. It helps if the cam is loose enough to easily measure. The tight timing chain may hinder slightly
 
WOW, it looks like you have a long way to go. The idea is you keep grinding on the button until it fits. Hope you can do it without hitting the cam bolts. Don't go too far. You can't put it back on. 5-10 thou is fine but remember that's after the cover is torqued down. Did I ever tell you cam buttons are a hassle?
 
I modify the cover and the water pump housing so they touch. Measure the distance between the back of the water pump housing and cam button with a feeler gauge minus the thickness of the cover. Target 0.003”. Check for slightest movement when done.
 
The Comp Cam ones seem to fit darn near perfect. The factory cover distorts pretty easy. You'll want to brace it ive had luck with the big washer trick, then shave to fit behind the installed waterpump. As far as tolerance, best case scenario is just enough for oil film. So their numbers are generous.
Are those ARP bolts?
Yes, they are ARP bolts, ARP 244-1001. I didn't use the washers because the factory cover would not sit flush to the block with the washers installed. Without the washers, the timing cover is flush to the block, by observation. I have not measured clearances back of timing chain cover to the front of the 3 bolts.

Is the big washer trick: welding a washer to front of timing chain cover behind water pump housing?
 
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I modify the cover and the water pump housing so they touch. Measure the distance between the back of the water pump housing and cam button with a feeler gauge minus the thickness of the cover. Target 0.003”. Check for slightest movement when done.
That's a great idea. My back cam plug is already installed with sealant. Nice way to avoid removing the cam plug.

WOW, it looks like you have a long way to go. The idea is you keep grinding on the button until it fits. Hope you can do it without hitting the cam bolts. Don't go too far. You can't put it back on. 5-10 thou is fine but remember that's after the cover is torqued down. Did I ever tell you cam buttons are a hassle?
LOL. No you never told me cam buttons are a hassle. Ugh, but with the help of FBBO. I'll figure it out.
I think this is the button that 440 Source sold me, but 440 Source has a habit of changing part numbers so I can't compare prices. This in turn, hinders finding manufacturer instructions.
Comp Cams Cam Button
440 Source, on the positive side, is helpful on the phone with questions.
What timing chain cover did you use?
 
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I think this is the button that 440 Source sold me, but 440 Source has a habit of changing part numbers so I can't compare prices.
I bought the same Comp Can button, mines made out of carbon fiber, what material is yours made out of.
 
I don't remember which chain I used last time but it's usually a nightmare. Superformance make a .062" gasket that would help for starters. And people always ask why it takes so long to build an engine nowadays.
 
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