I am curious as to how much better/cooler a dedicated trans cooler (external radiator) is over an aluminum engine radiator with the two lower likes in stock config?
Trans cooler vs aluminum engine radiator
- Thread starter Moparfiend
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Seems better for a separate cooler.
Depends on torque converter, driving style, engine thermostat, and cooling system efficiency.
Some guys cars run at 210, some run 170. That will heat up the trans.
I have an old pickup with ATF running radiator cooler and an external cooler with a trans temp gauge. Towing the ATF runs around 160 until a hill then it's 220. Once crest the hill and start down the ATF temps drops like a rock back to 160 in 2 minutes.
Depends on torque converter, driving style, engine thermostat, and cooling system efficiency.
Some guys cars run at 210, some run 170. That will heat up the trans.
I have an old pickup with ATF running radiator cooler and an external cooler with a trans temp gauge. Towing the ATF runs around 160 until a hill then it's 220. Once crest the hill and start down the ATF temps drops like a rock back to 160 in 2 minutes.
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Your engine and trans will run cooler
No doubt an auxiliary cooler can lower temperatures. Question is do you really need one? Most cars rely on the standard radiator cooler with no issues. Unless I had a need to run one I would run with the stock system. KISS theory.
My original set up was great. I am contemplating a higher stall converter. Temp ~ life with trans and torque converters. Just curious if it’s worth it…. It surely doesn’t sound like it will hurt.
If I was concerned about heat the first thing I would do before wasting money is install a temperature gauge so I know what the transmissions fluid temperature is.
Where would you put the thermostat at?
Splangj
Well-Known Member
It definitely helps. With the stock cooler tank attached to a 180 temp tank at minimum, I would think better. The pic of the black one is more efficient than the silver job with the tube running through, but either is better than stock.
Most put them in the pan. Weld a bung or get a deeper pan that comes with a bung. Plus a deeper pan will add a couple more quarts which can help it cool.
Good question - I have a stock pan but a slightly looser than stock Hughes converter on my 67 GTX. It’s just a street cruiser but I have wondered about putting in a deeper pan or auxiliary cooler on. I need to shoot the pan immediately after driving and see what the temperature is running. I would think that would be pretty accurate short of putting in a gauge.
Yes. But make sure the wall is thick enough. If not have someone tig weld up a lower area so you have more meat to drill and tap. Do a google search for aluminum pans to see where they add a lower bung/port.
I have an aluminum Moroso deep pan, there are two bungs in the front of the pan, one drain and I installed a temp sender in the other. Towards the passenger side of the pan. I am using the factory cooler in the radiator and then through an external cooler. If you do get an external cooler, get a plate cooler. Haven't driven the car car yet, so no info.
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