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I’m pretty sure it’s double stamped for a reason.
One is the keyway slot and the other is the tooth notch.
Example if you want to advance it two degrees you would use the A2 keyway slot and then line up the A2 tooth notch with the top gear marks while installing.
Been a few years but I’m...
I went through a couple of deep sump pans until I finally made a skid plate from the K frame to the scatter shield bell housing. That put an end to that aggravating problem.
Bought these new tracks for my 70 RR bucket seats.
The wire going between the rail latches is so long it doesn’t release the inner rail latch. Seems like I’m missing a tensioner or something to take up the slack. Can’t find it in my FSM.
Any help is appreciated.
I would first put an ohm meter on the brass ring and steel splined area and see if it’s actually making contact.
I’m not sure where to buy a new one of those insulators. I had one I stole off of an old steering wheel.
Also if you do change it be sure to mark where that signal canceling rod is...
Thanks for the reply and picture.
I think my frame is pretty straight I’m concerned with the part that would hit the back of your knee while sitting on it.
Yours looks straighter than mine. Kinda hard to see in the picture.
hi,
Got my 70 RR rear seats stripped down and getting ready to be powder coated.
The front, top edge of the rear seat bottom has 2 downwards curves where you would sit. Were these bowed originally or just sagged from 55 years of use. I tried to circle the area in this picture but it didn’t come...