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I did about half one day and the remainder the next. About an hour each time but I was taking my time and being methodical. The thing that was the most surprising was the ease the tapered tap bites into the block, so easy I was concerned it had stripped the threads but that was never the case...
I purchased a stand just for that(engine and K frame) from Mancini (I think). Not cheap and there are other ways to make them etc but I don't have the time. Anyway, I have a lift and with this it is super easy to remove the engine, work on it, etc. I will put it all together with front end...
Still got some clean up etc to do but crack repaired using Pioneer drill bit, tap, and plugs. Time consuming and wish the Lock n Stitch had been available but this worked well. I am confident of a permanent seal.
Yeah that is it, mine came with the plugs, drill bit and tap. None of the other stuff but I have a substitute for those. I did previously see these instructions, but it does not say how far apart to drill the holes. I will go by the pics and put them pretty close. The area I am repairing is...
All of the online videos I could find are the Lock N Stitch, which is no longer available. I have purchased a set of cast iron with the square heads, along with drill bit and tap, etc. Do these install the same way basically, with one line installed, cut off, then come back in between those...
Just to check accuracy and for kicks and giggles, I experimented with some fender tag info on ChatGPT. Most all of it was wrong. I suspect other AI platforms are as well.
Very useful for a lot of things, just not fender tag decoding on Mopars.
Will do. Have found additional cracks in the same general area but will attempt to repair them all. I really want to save this numbers block if possible.