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Sickening- Cracked Block - Repairable?

Well... The company Lock and Stitch is just down the road from me, for years they have sold their repair kits & repaired equipment at their facility while also having a crew that travels worldwide repairing cracks on heavy equipment, ships & anything else where the owners were willing to pay the costs... But it looks like in 2025 the company was acquired by Wärtsilä & the new owners aren't selling the repair kits anymore... I had heard something about it earlier this year but now searches appear to confirm that.. Other companies are selling the original design pins, the drill guides don't appear to be available... Though honestly that wouldn't be hard to fabricate..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254255897225
I had also heard that they were not selling the kits anymore.

Goodson seems to have them and they say they have the installation tools also.

 
Well... The company Lock and Stitch is just down the road from me, for years they have sold their repair kits & repaired equipment at their facility while also having a crew that travels worldwide repairing cracks on heavy equipment, ships & anything else where the owners were willing to pay the costs... But it looks like in 2025 the company was acquired by Wärtsilä & the new owners aren't selling the repair kits anymore... I had heard something about it earlier this year but now searches appear to confirm that.. Other companies are selling the original design pins, the drill guides don't appear to be available... Though honestly that wouldn't be hard to fabricate..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254255897225
JFC $193 for a bit, tapered tap and tapered bolts!!!
 
Well... The company Lock and Stitch is just down the road from me, for years they have sold their repair kits & repaired equipment at their facility while also having a crew that travels worldwide repairing cracks on heavy equipment, ships & anything else where the owners were willing to pay the costs... But it looks like in 2025 the company was acquired by Wärtsilä & the new owners aren't selling the repair kits anymore... I had heard something about it earlier this year but now searches appear to confirm that.. Other companies are selling the original design pins, the drill guides don't appear to be available... Though honestly that wouldn't be hard to fabricate..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254255897225
Yes I just found that out. Crap
 
I still have a 440 I rebuilt in the early 80s. I found a similar crack in it. I veed out the crack with a grinder and filled it with JB Weld. I hasn't leaked in decades now.
Mike
Back when I was dead broke in the late 70's I did this same repair. A 64 Fairlane wagon with a straight six and a cracked block running up the side to the deck. Wire wheeled off the paint and glopped it up with JB. It held fine and didn't leak for three years till I sold the car.
 
I'm not sure if you've seen it but there's another crack heading south south west from the plug.

Because there's a second crack, I would not stitch it. I would widen the crack and JB weld it. If that fails, I would get a new block.
 
Engine is out and as far as I know there were no previous leaks, but I did not drive it that much before beginning restoration. The engine was rebuilt before I got it and certainly seems to be in good condition otherwise.

Had not noticed this until I replaced freeze plugs, and after the plug was removed evidently it seemed to be obvious, or maybe got worse at that point. Engine had been painted previously so it was not noticeable. Noticed it right after I had installed the new freeze plug.

I really don’t want to get another block engine, etc as this is matching numbers and I have a good bit invested in it.

Competent advice from those of you with experience is very much appreciated.

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That hairline crack can be “ stitched”.

It’s a process where the crack is carefully

Drilled & plugged in sequence with small

& appropriate plugs . Ask an experienced

Machine Shop , they should be able to

Give you appropriate advice in saving that

block & will have to be dissembled in

My opinion to perform a proper repair.

This is common in the heavy equipment

Industry.

Best wishes!

Mopar2ya!

John
 
That hairline crack can be “ stitched”.

It’s a process where the crack is carefully

Drilled & plugged in sequence with small

& appropriate plugs . Ask an experienced

Machine Shop , they should be able to

Give you appropriate advice in saving that

block & will have to be dissembled in

My opinion to perform a proper repair.

This is common in the heavy equipment

Industry.

Best wishes!

Mopar2ya!

John
I agree.
My 413 needed a sleeve because of a crack in one cylinder. Then the crack spread at the bottom and my machinist stitched it together.

It’s been fine 4 years and I’ve been running the crap out of it.
 
I saw this video a few years ago.... possibly the same for a plug hole.


This is the method I use to repair cracks. The first hole on the end stops the crack, then keep pinning, and overlapping to remove the crack. The longest one I have repaired was around 17" long.

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Not saying which method is better but just from my experience you need to find a good welder that has an oven big enough to pre heat before welding and slowly cool the block after welding. That is the only way to make a lasting repair. Plus, you can usually grind and smooth the finished weld and not tell it had been repaired when done. I have seen guys using nickel rods, brazing rods etc. and the heat always imparts stress that cracks again down the road. I have had racing blocks crack as pictured and most had cylinders that were barrel shaped so it would pay to disassemble and do some measuring before spending time and money to repair.
 
This is the method I use to repair cracks. The first hole on the end stops the crack, then keep pinning, and overlapping to remove the crack. The longest one I have repaired was around 17" long.

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Looks great. I am checking in to this.
 
I had a crack in one of my 906 iron heads found after I had already reconditioned them after decided to remove the old exhaust studs and replace them. Discovered the crack and stitch repaired it. Still going on the engine today with over 65,000 miles and has been running since 2007.
 
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This is the method I use to repair cracks. The first hole on the end stops the crack, then keep pinning, and overlapping to remove the crack. The longest one I have repaired was around 17" long.

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Very nice work. What did you use for pins and equipment?
 
Not saying which method is better but just from my experience you need to find a good welder that has an oven big enough to pre heat before welding and slowly cool the block after welding. That is the only way to make a lasting repair. Plus, you can usually grind and smooth the finished weld and not tell it had been repaired when done. I have seen guys using nickel rods, brazing rods etc. and the heat always imparts stress that cracks again down the road. I have had racing blocks crack as pictured and most had cylinders that were barrel shaped so it would pay to disassemble and do some measuring before spending time and money to repair.
I would strongly recommend staying away from welding. I know people do it successfully, but its not for the faint hearted and stitch welding is a better solution.
 
That was/is a common repair on the 24 valve Cummins engines. 98-02 with 53? as part of the block casting number.
 
This is the method I use to repair cracks. The first hole on the end stops the crack, then keep pinning, and overlapping to remove the crack. The longest one I have repaired was around 17" long.

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That's pretty amazing in my book.
 
I'm going to go out on a limb here. I worked on alot of industrial equipment over the years and the stitching does work,
but when working with cast iron I would rather T.I.G. weld the crack with Castolin Eutectic Tig Tectic 224. If you vee out the
crack carefully and have someone repair it with this filler rod, it will be the best repair. I used this many times and It works!
You can buy it through an Airgas distributor. It welds very nicely and then you can knock it down flush. to blend the area
afterwards you can go over the area with a welder's needle scaler to make it look untoutched. Just my 2 cents. I'll try and
post some pic's here.
 

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I'm going to go out on a limb here. I worked on alot of industrial equipment over the years and the stitching does work,
but when working with cast iron I would rather T.I.G. weld the crack with Castolin Eutectic Tig Tectic 224. If you vee out the
crack carefully and have someone repair it with this filler rod, it will be the best repair. I used this many times and It works!
You can buy it through an Airgas distributor. It welds very nicely and then you can knock it down flush. to blend the area
afterwards you can go over the area with a welder's needle scaler to make it look untoutched. Just my 2 cents. I'll try and
post some pic's here.
Thanks. I’m considering Al possibilities at this point.
 
Thanks. I’m considering Al possibilities at this point.

I used to work for Dresser Ind. , we had a bunch of 8 cyl. moble pipeline engines come in one summer that were burnt with the blocks cracked , these blocks broke down the lower cases were still as big as a trailer house. We had a company come in and lockstitch them , I later left water in my hemi block after draining the rad. only one winter , it froze/broke down both sides , I spent my vacation lock stitching it . You are supposed to overlap by half each pin , which is a 1/4x20 bolt screwed in the tapped hole till the head breaks off. <loctited of course) , then overlapping each one , from one end thru the other .
that hemi ram in a drag car for 14 yrs. , is still sealed up to this day .
The biggest problem with yours is going to be the freeze plug hole , that might be another story ........??
 
Grind the crack then use a low temp Nickel rod like Inconel. Worked good for me on block repairs.

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