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Sickening- Cracked Block - Repairable?

dspur said:
Not familiar with block filler, I will need to research that. Did this affect the cooling?
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It’s used by racers, it’s similar to concrete, often called “hard block.” A “street fill” is usually considered up to the bottom of the core plug holes. You may need extra oil cooling to make up for it. If you’re just drag racing most don’t bother. You can see elevated oil temps on the street, likely won’t notice if you don’t monitor before and after.

ENG. BLOCK FILLER, CASE

Here’s the crack repair kit I recommend:

.235
 
I'd get all the plugs out and a borescope inside and magnafluxed before making any repair decision. stuffing or partial is not an option in my opinion unless it going to the drag strip! I have a stuffed 440 block clearanced for stroker build, but it's shelved because no need for it anymore,all the rotating assembling was used in the Bella build!
 
Not here I used them at the mill, I have limited acess to them. There are some on eBay right now.
 
69Bee said:
This is the method I use to repair cracks. The first hole on the end stops the crack, then keep pinning, and overlapping to remove the crack. The longest one I have repaired was around 17" long.

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I knew you would either chime in or I was gonna drag you in buddy. Merry Christmas to you and your family Dave.
 
dspur said:
Engine is out and as far as I know there were no previous leaks, but I did not drive it that much before beginning restoration. The engine was rebuilt before I got it and certainly seems to be in good condition otherwise.

Had not noticed this until I replaced freeze plugs, and after the plug was removed evidently it seemed to be obvious, or maybe got worse at that point. Engine had been painted previously so it was not noticeable. Noticed it right after I had installed the new freeze plug.

I really don’t want to get another block engine, etc as this is matching numbers and I have a good bit invested in it.

Competent advice from those of you with experience is very much appreciated.

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All of the online videos I could find are the Lock N Stitch, which is no longer available. I have purchased a set of cast iron with the square heads, along with drill bit and tap, etc. Do these install the same way basically, with one line installed, cut off, then come back in between those like the Lock n Stitch method? Given these do not break off when torqued, I suppose there is some feel as to the appropriate torque? How far apart initially, 1/4" to 1/2" and then come back in between and go again? How much of the bolt to be left and then peened after cutting off, etc etc.? Thanks in advance to any advice from those who have experience with this as opposed to the Lock n Stitch kit.
 
dspur said:
All of the online videos I could find are the Lock N Stitch, which is no longer available. I have purchased a set of cast iron with the square heads, along with drill bit and tap, etc. Do these install the same way basically, with one line installed, cut off, then come back in between those like the Lock n Stitch method? Given these do not break off when torqued, I suppose there is some feel as to the appropriate torque? How far apart initially, 1/4" to 1/2" and then come back in between and go again? How much of the bolt to be left and then peened after cutting off, etc etc.? Thanks in advance to any advice from those who have experience with this as opposed to the Lock n Stitch kit.
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What brand did you buy? There was an outfit at PRI selling them and they seemed to have very good customer support. I wonder if you have their stuff, and if you do I would call them for guidance.
 
65CopCar said:
What brand did you buy? There was an outfit at PRI selling them and they seemed to have very good customer support. I wonder if you have their stuff, and if you do I would call them for guidance.
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Purchased off ebay. I will have to look at the box. They are cast iron TT235.
 
Funny thing, I was talking with a buddy who owns a machine shop a couple days ago... He just got a new/used Hardinage turret lathe, from a production facility that recently shut down.... Lock N Stitch.... When they sent it out the door there was a couple dozen finished bolts in the tray....
 
65CopCar said:
Pretty sure it was these guys at PRI:

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Yeah that is it, mine came with the plugs, drill bit and tap. None of the other stuff but I have a substitute for those. I did previously see these instructions, but it does not say how far apart to drill the holes. I will go by the pics and put them pretty close. The area I am repairing is on the side and not a high pressure area. Before that, I have a scap piece of cast iron I will practice and experiment on.
Thanks
 
dspur said:
Yeah that is it, mine came with the plugs, drill bit and tap. None of the other stuff but I have a substitute for those. I did previously see these instructions, but it does not say how far apart to drill the holes. I will go by the pics and put them pretty close. The area I am repairing is on the side and not a high pressure area. Before that, I have a scap piece of cast iron I will practice and experiment on.
Thanks
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Call them - they will give you good guidance.

I personally like the use of a jig. I talked to them about that, and they said they just never used one, but if a straight crack could be beneficial. Lock n' Stitch uses a jig.

If you want a jig I would be happy to make one for you, just let me know.

They also said get as close to the freeze plug and stop - don't need to worry about the last little bit, just use sealer to keep from leaking.
 
Goodson sells this product also (reselling Irontite I suppose) they sell the whole kit with sealers also for water jackets. This might be a good option for my block skirt (windowed) it was welded but formed a crack. Ill cut a section out of a junk 440 block to use in the broken block. I have a mega block that was done this way and it looks super.
 
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