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More than the A/C itself, actually the blower. Still on VENT or DEF functions. With the A/C the problem increases since RPM is reduced by the compressor traction. But compressor clutch itself don’t suck a lot of power.
Another big sucker is the wipers. Specially if is not raining enough. A dry...
Correct. All 71/74 B body (Dodge and Plymouth) 2 doors use same roof skin. Hence Why I don’t understand the reason to not reproduce it. Lot of market for it.
Consider, the roof skin doesn’t include anything of the C pillar like some earlier models, hence why perfectly interchanges
BDL gets power with key in RUN (ign1)
BR gets power while cranking (START or Ign2) to bypass the ballast
However when ballast is conected, it splices the power all around on both sides and wires, but a diff voltage level depending on which wire gets hot from ign key.
If needing full 12 volts...
I installed one of those but stock replacement piece (60 amps), not HiPo on a 74 318 Dart of a friend of mine but small blocks gets room on back. Post 69 big blocks gets the alt in between block front (#2 cylinder) and bracket. Since is GM product, needs to get wired like a Chevy, getting rid of...
Those alts are late AC Delco design internally regulated. At the end you can fit allmost any kind of alt as far matches deepness and brackets to the location.
For a post 69 Big Block I think these could be a tight fit. The rear of the alt could not find enough room.
Is just an opinion from the...
From the distance, is a Mopar Performance Mallory made unit. Althought Firecore uses the same, but with a more serviceable shaft bushing assembly. Only visible with shaft removed.
Hence why oval air cleaner models didn’t have A/C or two speeds wipers
Amazingly Monteverdi already solved that back in the days before Chrysler did (which actually NEVER did LOL)
And notice… Hemi with A/C on 1970… something that Chrysler never made LOL.
AS FAR I RECALL, manual...
Agreed
Like dome light, uses a bulb base isolated from filament like the 1004, hence why dual contact… positive and negative.
Map light should take a smaller wattage one thought. As mentioned, #90 or similar should be.. something like 5 watts? 1004 takes around 15 watts if my memory serves...
Actually no need for high level multimeter for classics auto use, but measuring the default resistance between leads should be quite enough.
Sometimes spinning the leads inserted on multimeter will give a better measurement.
I have found these kind of multimeters within a 0.4~1 ohm default...
I would make something like that on a RatRoad car, but not on a restorable one. Except If I have 4 or 5 more 73/74 RRs LOL.
EDITING… or maybe not to a RR but to a regular Satellite