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Correct engine storage?

wedge5

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I have replaced my 440 with a 500 and was wondering how I should store it. I put it on a stand,plugged all the openings and put it in a plastic bag. I drained the old oil out and going to put new oil in. I figured I needed to turn it over at least once a month. Will this keep the piston/cylinders lubricated? Or do I need to remove the distributor and prime the oil pump to get it lubricated?
 
I have seen this done and the guy claims it's in the Corvette manual (circa 1960's I think). What he did was trickle about a qt of motor oil into the carb with the engine running until it was spewing out the exhaust ports. He was pretty aggressive with the dosage and it was on the verge of stalling but no damage was done that I'm aware of (i.e. hydraulic lock). Note: The engine was not in a car or on a stand but sitting on the ground running with no exhaust manifolds. At one point he goosed the throttle and it rolled over on it's side. Kind of a Three Stooges moment.
 
I have seen this done and the guy claims it's in the Corvette manual (circa 1960's I think). What he did was trickle about a qt of motor oil into the carb with the engine running until it was spewing out the exhaust ports. He was pretty aggressive with the dosage and it was on the verge of stalling but no damage was done that I'm aware of (i.e. hydraulic lock). Note: The engine was not in a car or on a stand but sitting on the ground running with no exhaust manifolds. At one point he goosed the throttle and it rolled over on it's side. Kind of a Three Stooges moment.

I used to keep a 440 sitting on a movers dolly that was set up to start, and just to freak people out, I'd fire it up and goose it every now and then. It never turned over, but even people who weren't car folks would love to see the fire leaping out of the magnum exhausts.

I'd make sure to either keep it set to run, or if you're going to keep it inside the plastic bag, put a bunch of dessicant in with it. Closing a bag up in the winter time is asking for humidity to form inside it.
 
Rotating the motor by hand won't move any oil through it. But you can use an oil priming shaft and do it. This requires removing the distributor and drive gear, and it will be necessary to rotate the motor 180*.

The top end is oiled through one of the cam journals, and alternates between the two heads. So the cam has to be properly aligned for oil to reach either head.
 
I'd fog the cylinders (bought at a marine supply store) turn it over by hand and let the valve train down so as to close all of the valves.
 
I'd fog the cylinders (bought at a marine supply store) turn it over by hand and let the valve train down so as to close all of the valves.

That's an interesting idea about the valve train, never would have occured to me. :beermug: I guess the only downside is not being able to (easily) turn the motor over once and a while.
 
You shouldn't need to turn it over. Just make sure no moisture gets into the cylinders. Fog with oil is good and seal everything. Loosening the rocker shafts is good also but you might want to make sure the valves close on a film of oil.
 
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