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Motor mounts

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Joined
Jan 4, 2012
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Location
Cleveland, Ohio
Question. I have a 1970 charger and just noticed my motor mounts appear to have no insulators. The mounts appear to be steel where the rubber normally is. Motor sits right but does not rock in the cradle. Can this be some heavy duty after market or am I screwed. My other car all rocked and would torque up. This one just sits still.
Also are insulators really even required or having a motor locked in place harmful. She runs like a champ. Also after three hours in the garage last night I am sure it is rolled steel were rubber usually is. Any thoughts and replies will be greatly appraised.
 
I don't know about calling them heavy duty (IMO I'd consider the poly lock mounts to be the heavy duty be all/end all), what they will do is transfer every single vibration and noise to the car, as well as making it a pain in the *** to put in and work with (there's no wiggle room or give w/ solid mounts...)


If it were me, I'd seriously thing about swapping them if the car is going to be driven and enjoyed
 
If your teeth can take it, the solid mounts transfer better than the rubber. With rubber, the engine flexes the mount. I ran solids years ago, 383 charger. Ran into things loosening from vibrations, etc. And at around 6500 rpm, there was a harmonic that buzzed the whole car. And my head. The poly locks are supposed to be almost as strong from what I have heard, and a lot more comfortable.
 
The 440 I bought a while back had all steel mounts. I was told they were for use on trucks.
 
Solid mounts are a racing deal but can be used on the street too. I like to use just one on the driver's side and keep the rubber for the other two. Also, check the trans mount to make sure it's rubber and not a solid one. That can and usually will crack your transmission case. Yes, solid mounts can transmit more vibration but if the engine is balanced well, then that shouldn't be much of a problem....at least it wasn't on any of mine that had solid mounts. As for truck mounts....iirc, they went to an interlocking mount somewhere in the late 70's but they were still rubber insulated on pickups. Don't know about the larger trucks.
 
I have solid mounts in mine and hate them. I am going back to stock mounts with the schumacher limiting strap/bracket that mounts to the k member right where the swap bar mounts.
 
Even balanced, all parts have a vibrating harmonic, actually, everything does. In my case, something rang at 6500. Right above and below, no vibration. Worked well, I knew as soon as I felt it, got through it, it was time to shift. Poor man's shift indicator. Lol.
 
I have a self-made LEFT solid mount under my 440, and you'd never know it's there. A few years ago, after putting in one of the newer crappy (probably Chinese-made) mounts which lasted a week before my fan impaled the radiator, I put back this mount which was made a long time ago. And from what you say, you didn't know it was there, either...
 
Schumacher interlockers work good. Smooth and have not failed.
 
A tip from Budnicks if I recall is to drill a hole through the drivers side mount from top to bottom and run a bolt through it and torque down with washers. That allows the rubber to compress like normal but doesn't allow the motor to torque over and break the motor mount sandwich apart.
 
I've had Schumakers in my Hemi E bod for a long time.... no issues
 
i have a solid on the driver side and rubber on the passenger side with no issues at all. there is no loss of torque either. the reason i did this, was the fear of ripping out the driver side mount and engine lift hitting the hood:eek:
 
Thanks for all the input. I have been reading up on the mounts with other threads. It is definitly correct in saying they transfer vibrations. I been going around the car tighting bolts up for a week now. The right side mount was actual figure loose which created a bad vibration at 55+ mph when I let off the gas. I have a set of motor mounts I will switch this winter. Amazing though since I have had the car for 20 years and just realized they were solid.
 
Even balanced, all parts have a vibrating harmonic, actually, everything does. In my case, something rang at 6500. Right above and below, no vibration. Worked well, I knew as soon as I felt it, got through it, it was time to shift. Poor man's shift indicator. Lol.
Yup....all rotating equipment has what's called a critical rpm and with most, you want to get through that as quick as possible but with an internal combustion engine, you have so many components that produce vibration from the valve train (which is a lot), crankshaft and to the combustion process itself. I've experienced some weird noises in some of my cars but never had one ringing at me lol
 
Got everything tighten up on the car and the vibrations are gone, Plus most tranny and engine leaks have stopped. I think now I will probably keep the solid mounts in until I hit the Ohio Lottery and make the old 383 into my new 496 stroker motor. Just need to hit the lotto...
 
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