• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Oil and filter quality and brands

M

mopar73dge

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:01 PM
Joined
Jan 15, 2016
Messages
482
Reaction score
181
Location
Connecticut
I would like to know what ever body is using for oil brand and filters and weight, for the 1972 318 engine or equal. My all around driving outside temperatures are from 40 to 100 deg.F

I have been adding Marvel to the oil at every change and using 10w-40
 
in my experience wix and k&n have serious drain back issues when mounted in the horizontal. if your mount is vertical or close to vertical, like a chevy, then they're o.k.
 
I have used pretty much every manufacters filters and havn`t had to many problems. One issue I`ve had was on the race car. It used to crease the end of the filter (Napa filter) but never leaked. Moved to Fram HP filters and fixed that. Lately I`ve been using Baldwin filters. They use metal relief valves (the ones I`ve seen) and look to be very good quality. I do shy away from the cheap Fram filters because of the problems I`ve heard about. I think when it comes to filters you get what you pay for. Just my 0.02 cents
 
I have heard a lot of bad things about fram. But I have used them for over 40 years on everything I own with out a single issue. I have cars with over 200 thousand miles on them. I use them on both dodge diesel trucks and both have over 150 thousand miles. Not saying that they are better or worse or that they haven't caused issues. Just that I haven't had any. I use their better grade as they have several grades.
 
Homstead said:
I have used pretty much every manufacters filters and havn`t had to many problems. One issue I`ve had was on the race car. It used to crease the end of the filter (Napa filter) but never leaked. Moved to Fram HP filters and fixed that. Lately I`ve been using Baldwin filters. They use metal relief valves (the ones I`ve seen) and look to be very good quality. I do shy away from the cheap Fram filters because of the problems I`ve heard about. I think when it comes to filters you get what you pay for. Just my 0.02 cents
Click to expand...
i used to be a die hard baldwin guy. the last batch i've bought had drainback issues in my big blocks. maybe i got some bad ones, don't know, but went to purolators and so far no issues. i take drain back very seriously. every start is a dry start if the filter drains back.
 
Mopar or Fram filter and Joe Gibbs oil, 10w-40 in my 318 and 440.
 
lewtot184 said:
i used to be a die hard baldwin guy. the last batch i've bought had drainback issues in my big blocks. maybe i got some bad ones, don't know, but went to purolators and so far no issues. i take drain back very seriously. every start is a dry start if the filter drains back.
Click to expand...
How do you know your dealing with a filter that drains back. Difference in the level of oil on the dip stick after sitting?
 
I use what's on sale...Fram Tough Guard, Purilator 1?, K&N..etc.
Have a:
`95 Dakota: 183K miles
`99 $Runner: 223K miles
 
Amsoil Signature 10-40 high zinc synthetic in the 440. Wix/Napa Gold filter.
 
Lucas 10/40 has zinc content and Napa Gold. I didn't know they were wix - good to know.
 
khryslerkid said:
How do you know your dealing with a filter that drains back. Difference in the level of oil on the dip stick after sitting?
Click to expand...
no oil pressure on initial start up. oil pump has to refill the filter before oil is circulated thru the engine.
 
lewtot184 said:
no oil pressure on initial start up. oil pump has to refill the filter before oil is circulated thru the engine.
Click to expand...
That sounds logical - but how do you know you don't have oil pressure at start up? My car doesn't have an oil gauge - just the light. I can see where this could be a problem and would like to know as well.
 
318 in a driver? Basic oil and filter. I don't think any racing rated stuff is needed or worth the investment.
 
Sonny uses, AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage.......
undercover63.jpg
 
Oh boy. An "oil thread".

Mobile 1 full synthetic with STP for zinc is what I run in two LA 318s.
And a Mobile 1 filter
It's easy to get at any store.
I'm guessing the zinc is just for extra precaution.
I've not only done a lot of reading, I've got a 1986 318 that I ran for years with just Mobile 1.
Real world testing.
I started adding STP since my driver engine is now high mileage and driven everyday in all weather.
Probably over 150 thousand on it by now.
I'm also guessing all this zinc talk really applies to high lift cam engines anyway.
"Our" stock valve trains really aren't pushing the rockers as hard.
Don't use the Marvel. That's for "top cylinder" lubrication.
One of the caveats of synthetic oil is that is has a smaller molecule (so the internet says) . So any leaks will seems worse.
IIRC Mobile 1 is the original synthetic.
In an oil seminar, the Mobile rep told us that in theory synthetic oil never wears out.
If it never got dirty, you won't need to change it.
"But we make money selling oil" he said.
Another thing I was told by someone that did oil analysis about motor oils in general.
Use the narrowest range you can based on your temperatures.
The wider the viscosity range, the less oil you are getting and the more "additives" to increase the range.

I also just read that it's really better to use "too thin" an oil than too thick an oil.
This makes sense because, as we know, most wear occurs at start up when the engine is cold. The oil needs to flow.
That fellow that did oil analysis told us synthetics are better at flowing cold anyway. Win, win.

Overloaded yet?
 
Last edited:
onlyone said:
Oh boy. An "oil thread".

Mobile 1 full synthetic with STP for zinc is what I run in two LA 318s.
And a Mobile 1 filter
It's easy to get at any store.
I'm guessing the zinc is just for extra precaution.
I've not only done a lot of reading, I've got a 318 that I ran for years with just Mobile 1.
Real world testing.
I started adding STP since my driver engine is now high mileage and driven everyday in all weather.
Probably over 150 thousand on it by now.
I'm also guessing all this zinc talk really applies to high lift cam engines anyway.
"Our" stock valve trains really aren't pushing the rockers as hard.
Don't use the Marvel. That's for "top cylinder" lubrication.
One of the caveats of synthetic oil is that is has a smaller molecule (so the internet says) . So any leaks will seems worse.
IIRC Mobile 1 is the original synthetic.
In an oil seminar, the Mobile rep told us that in theory synthetic oil never wears out.
If it never got dirty, you won't need to change it.
"But we make money selling oil" he said.
Another thing I was told by someone that did oil analysis about motor oils in general.
Use the narrowest range you can based on your temperatures.
The wider the viscosity range, the less oil you are getting and the more "additives" to increase the range.

I also just read that it's really better to use "to thin" an oil than too thick an oil.
This makes sense because, as we know, most wear occurs at start up when the engine is cold. The oil needs to flow.
That fellow that did oil analysis told us synthetics are better at flowing cold anyway. Win, win.
Click to expand...
Agree with most of this. Amsoil is one of two real synthetics. Mobil 1 is the other. Amsoil is claimed to have an additive package that includes a seal massager. No additives needed.
 
Dennis H said:
Agree with most of this. Amsoil is one of two real synthetics. Mobil 1 is the other. Amsoil is claimed to have an additive package that includes a seal massager. No additives needed.
Click to expand...

What? The zinc stuff?
That's just my interpretation about what I've read.

Yea, I've heard about needing to start engines to keep seals "from drying out".
IDK about that.
So if you have a car that sits that might be necessary.
I can tell you that between 150 and 200 on my 86 318 and no leaks yet with Mobile 1.
Well, not that I've noticed anyway.
And certainly not worth doing anything about.
My other "driver" doesn't get as much usage. But that 85 318 isn't leaking either.
It does "sit" for a couple of weeks sometimes.
Same oil and filter.
 
Real synthetic, hmmmm.... Now I'm confused.

I use Fram. Not sure what issues are, I've never had a problem. I'll throw a twist in on the oil side - Shell Rotella 15/40 in all my old stuff.
 
Rotella? For diesels?
I read that while that does have "zinc" the detergent content is not right for gas engines.
That's on the internet somewhere.
Like "racing" oils. They have "zinc" but not enough detergent to keep the contaminates in suspension for the oil filter to work.
And I just read the instructions that came with my rebuilt engine.
Racing oils may not have the "rust preventive" additives.
Or so the reman people said.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

John H
Engine oil questions
Replies
18
Views
2K
Demonic
Demonic
Chris Many
Repo Oil Filter Adaptor Plates = big leaks
Replies
4
Views
841
dvw
dvw
Gregg DeGeorge
Oil filter mount leaking 1973 318
Replies
1
Views
654
pnora
pnora
Nismobishi
440 oil pressure light on with Valvoline VR-1 20w50.
Replies
12
Views
2K
beanhead
beanhead
79B100
318 Crank No Start
Replies
16
Views
1K
79B100
79B100
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top