straightaxle65
Member
Eastwood has a Rust encapsulator and there is POR-15 and many other. What has been the best results with the product that you have used??
What's the best Rust convertor?
- Thread starter straightaxle65
- Start date
- Local time
- 5:46 PM
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2009
- Messages
- 6,464
- Reaction score
- 5,302
- Location
- New Jersey The State of Tax Theives
Phosphoric acid is the only material besides Citric Acid that converts rust to inert Black "iron oxide". Rust encapsiulators simply stop Oxygen from temporarily slowing the conversion process to further rusting.
Mike67
Well-Known Member
As far a coatings go I've used por 15 on a rear end . put it on with a brush and it's ability to self level was impressive! The thing looks like it's powered coated and is hard as a rock! Don't get it anywhere you don't want it!
I bought the KBS Chassis kit but have not put it on yet. Heard good things about it though and cheaper than por15...
I bought the KBS Chassis kit but have not put it on yet. Heard good things about it though and cheaper than por15...
Outlaw525
Well-Known Member
Eastwoods rust encapsulator works good to seal the rust and stop it but not convert it back to iron oxide. The best that I have found is Rustmort which is available at most paint supply places. Turns rust to black iron oxide in less than 24 hours.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I don't think it's as simple of a question as that. If simply trying to preserve a part that won't be seen like a floor, axle, etc then POR 15 or Rust Bullet are the easy routes. Like mentioned these products do nothing more than seal the moisture out stopping the spread but seam to work well. If your referring to sheet metal that will need finishing then I like to sand everything I can off then chemically treat the metal and topcoat with epoxy primer. I'm restoring a truck with a lot of surface rust right now and am using PPG's products to neutralize the rust. It's a 2 step process, each chemical is mixed with water then sprayed on with a simple spray bottle then rinsed off with water leaving all remaining rust a black color.
When possible media blasting is always the best method, it's about the only way to physically remove the rust.
When possible media blasting is always the best method, it's about the only way to physically remove the rust.
straightaxle65
Member
Ok, thanks! what I have is a rusty floor pan but can be fixed with patched panels and not a complete replacement. What I want to do is stop the rust that's there and patch the rest. My Dad used Rustmort years ago and it seemed to work good but I thought I'd get a second opinion? Thanks for the replys!
- Local time
- 5:46 PM
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2009
- Messages
- 6,464
- Reaction score
- 5,302
- Location
- New Jersey The State of Tax Theives
Rustmort is Phosphoric and very good stuff I used it.
ZR9B
Well-Known Member
How about like on a dodge ram wheel well rust...I just want to stop the rust then I dont care..
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Don't overlook Chassis Saver. About $10/qt less than POR15 and I believe it's the same stuff.
68sprtsat383
Well-Known Member
I used Por 15 on my truck frame and it done good I was very pleased with it
1962polara
Well-Known Member
Ask Donnie (drblast)what he thinks about POR15
I've used POR-15 with very good results, you have to start with clean metal either blasted or the acid treatment, and it can be top coated for a different color. And yeah, it doesn't blast off, once it's on its on.
YY1
Well-Known Member
The "Rust Fix" available at Advance Auto parts works pretty good if you follow the directions and remove all the crust you can. Once you get down to a thin layer (like what might be left in porous metal) it really does turn it into a black, inert substance.
Leave too much, though, and it will come back through.
Leave too much, though, and it will come back through.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
????? I've read their literature a few times and I'm certain that's not what they call for. It's made to be painted right over rust, if your starting with clean metal than you don't need it at all.
Another vote for por15. works great, I've used it on suspension parts, floors.. but the prep is everything!
I don't have the instuctions in front of me, but what I remember is the procedure is to scrape, wire brush as much rust as you can, use their degreaser they call marine clean. Apply the metal prep solution which is phosphoric acid, leave it on for a certain amount of time, neutralize it with water, dry it off and apply the POR-15. The acid solution etches the metal and removes the leftover rust. I don't ever remember it being marketed as a rust "encapsulator". The reason I've used it is that once cured it's tough as hell, it makes a great coating for suspension parts or non automotive parts that are exposed to the elements. I'm not going as far to say it's as tough as powder coating, but it doesn't chip as easy. I'm not an advocate for this product, just stating that I have used this product and I'm very happy with the results. And I could imagine a professional blaster would hate this stuff.
That is true, but rust is soft and the coating isn't going to be any stronger than what's underneath. Like I said I don't have the instructions in front of me, but I'm pretty sure they recommend getting as clean a surface as possible and to use the acid solution to neutralize any rust that's leftover. I'm not trying to sell this product, I'm just saying that has held up well for a number of years. I've used it on the back of our tandem truck that sees road salt in the winter and it still looks good.
Ranger16
Well-Known Member
Without even reading instructions, common sense would dictate that you scrap and wire brush the rust before using POR15 or Chassis Saver. I think a neutralizer may be optional.
Yes, if I bead blast the parts I usually don't use the acid.
Similar threads
