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Crank bushing for manual conversion

He is going with the roller bearing the bushing I have wont go in his crank with out some machining so that roller bearing is the best bet.

I think if he dials in the center and gets the tranny mounted perfect it should be fine.
 
If it were mine. It would be done properly....even if it meant a new crank.
 
Damn, I just ordered one of the Mopar Performance pilot bushings for ten bucks. Guess I should have done more research. I'm not comfortable with drilling the crank or chopping the transmission......

I guess as rare as four speeds were on these cars, they probably didn't drill too many auto cranks. From the flange to the bottom of the hole, how deep does it need to be to accept the A833 shaft?
 
wasco said:
Damn, I just ordered one of the Mopar Performance pilot bushings for ten bucks. Guess I should have done more research. I'm not comfortable with drilling the crank or chopping the transmission......

I guess as rare as four speeds were on these cars, they probably didn't drill too many auto cranks. From the flange to the bottom of the hole, how deep does it need to be to accept the A833 shaft?
Click to expand...
Measure from the flat bellhouse surface of the tranny to the front end of the input shaft , add a little clearance and that will be how far from the flat tranny side of the bellhouse to the front end of the pilot bearing hole. That is with the bellhouse bolted up to the block. Be absolutly sure the hole is drilled dead center and straight, and not to deep...........................MO
 
Been there done that many many times.
The only part of any of this I have not done, is cut an input shaft. Couldn't bring myself to do it. Here's my choice in order:
1. Take your engine/crank to a good machine shop. Provide the depth you desire and final ream size - .940 for a standard pilot bushing.
2. If your depth is correct, but a standard bushing won't fit, buy a .910 bushing- yes you can still find them.
3. Use the "Dakota" needle bearing in the converter hub. But install it correctly. By this I mean STRAIGHT! They are unforgiving if not seated fully- clean the hub surface fully, use the freezer trick to install.
Be aware if you're doing an engine install and have a 7 qt or larger oil pan, you will have a difficult time lining up. Remember the converter hub bearing sits approximately 1" or more to the rear of original pilot bushing. K member clearance comes into play.
Have fun, and enjoy the fight!:D
 
The hole in the crankshaft is 7/8" wide and 2 1/4" deep. Looks like it tapers in slightly about half way.
 
gdrill said:
I measured my 1969, 4spd drilled crank before I drilled into my 1970 auto crank out. It was 2 1/4" deep by 7/8" ID. I then drilled my crank to 2 3/8" by 7/8".
Click to expand...
Glad it worked for you. I keep hearing about getting into a drilled oil passageway. I wonder if being cast crank or forged crank makes a difference? I know we drilled my 1978 cast crank without cutting off the end of the trans. input shaft , but I did not drill hole big enough for a pilot bearing . We used the needle bearing that locates in the torque converter boss....................................MO
 
Pilot bushing, clutch and flywheel are being delivered today - we'll have the answer this weekend! It won't be a big deal if it doesn't work out - I think I'd opt for cutting the transmission down before trying to drill a forged crank.
 
FWIW, Here's what I measured on a '68 440 auto crank bore for diameters and depth. The green area diameter would need to be opened up for the bushing.
2.120" would be the approximate depth an "uncut" input shaft would need to enter.
CrankDepthDiam1.jpg
 
Based on that, 2.25 depth should be enough - maybe the crank is already drilled for a four-speed......that would be lucky. Thanks for the info and the nifty graphics!
 
Maybe the undersized bushing then? I'll try the first bushing when I get home, and take a picture. I think I've hijacked the thread - sorry about that!
 
The last one I did,was a cast crank 440, I nipped 1" off the end of the input shaft and used the magnum bearing It worked perfect. With only one inch off the input shaft It will still work with a bushing
 
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