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360 really doesn't want to idle in gear

Ok trying to diagnose this rattling noise is driving me nuts.

Here's the current state of my troubleshooting:

1) detonation: I retarded the timing way back to 0 and drove the car, advanced it to like 20 btdc (low comp smog motor) and drove. The rattling/flapping sound is identical with both settings, intensity did not change so I don't think it has anything to do with detonation.

2) exhaust leak: I have a full TTI system, checked all connections with air hooked up and bottle of soapy water, nothing but a few little bubbles here and there. Doubt it is exhaust.

3) Lifter rattle, other engine noise: This seems the most likely, but i added a half quart of marvel mystery oil and no change to the sound. The weird thing is, revving the engine with the car parked i hear nothing. Sounds perfectly healthy. With the car in gear and holding with brake while revving up, same thing. I only hear it when driving, and it sounds like it is coming from under the car. I am stumped.
 
4) Timing chain: it appears my stock timing chain is pretty warn, timing mark is bouncing around some with the light on it and the fact I can advance the timing so much without getting detonation seems to confirm that the chain is stretched. BUT, listening to the timing cover with a steth i hear nothing, even unhooked the alternator and fan to hear better. What gives?
 
Hard to say without hearing it in person. So it’s defiantly coming from either engine or trans and not something like exhaust pipe hitting something? Check u joints and any moving part underneath. Looks for signs of contact between parts. Worn unjoints will click and rattle. I’m suggesting these because you said it sounds like it’s under the car. Idk man, it can be a headache but you’ll find it I’m sure.
 
just for sh1ts and giggles,
get under the car and check the Flexplate bolts And the Area around the bolts.
you might have a cracked flexplate or even a loose bolt.
flexplate connects the torque convertor to the engine.

even if the plates cracked i would Also Deffo plan a new timing chain install.
you shouldnt have back n forth on the timing.
a double roller like mentioned already is best.
while you are there,get a new water pump its cheap and a smart move.

Edit:
you can also grab the bottom crank pulley and move it from side to side while watching your dis shaft/Rotor to see how much movement it takes before the rotor moves.
be prepared to be scared lol.

you were wondering why you cant hear anything,
the factory timing chains used a nylon coated gear......yes,plastic over steel.
usually when you change them,youll discover over half the teeth/coating is gone,
vamoosed into your oil pan.

dont feel too bad tho,the slant 6 engines used a plastic distributor Gear!!
 
Last edited:
Not likely but, heat riser rattling? Try some higher octane gas also.
 
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