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do i need bigger driveshaft

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charger10

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1967 charger, had 318cc , replace with 440 - bored, stealth heads ,etc. do I need to replace the 2 3/4" driveshaft?? if so, what vendor?
thks, charger 10
 
charger10 said:
1967 charger, had 318cc , replace with 440 - bored, stealth heads ,etc. do I need to replace the 2 3/4" driveshaft?? if so, what vendor?
thks, charger 10
Click to expand...
If you had a 904 behind that 318 you'll be needing a shorter driveshaft anyway, so now's the time to up it to at least a 3", and larger series U-joints. Mancini's, Denny's Driveshaft are good vendors but you'll need to get the proper length measurement. Personally I'd check your local area first, price will likely be as good or better and you get face-to-face service..
 
1967 318 engines had a 727 transmission as standadprd equipment.

Yes get a bigger driveshaft. 7290 1330 or 1350 ujounts,
 
R413 said:
1967 318 engines had a 727 transmission as standadprd equipment.
Click to expand...
Well isn't that mopar for you. Gramps had a 67 Belvedere 318/904, that car was standard as standard gets..(he wouldn't spend extra on options to save his life..)
 
I just bought a driveshaft from Strange via Summit Racing. Best price I could find. The front u-joint change will require a conversion u joint or a yoke change. The rear u-joint conversion will need the same...conversion joint or rear yoke swap (not as easy as the front).

If you aren't ready for the $500+ bill for parts on all of this then get a driveshaft out of a big block charger (or equivalent). Get non drilled u joints. That's what I did and worked fine for 25 years.
 
I get all my drive shafts through Cass at Dr. Diff. Made just for you from Strange. Nice stuff.
 
You'll need to change rear yoke if you go to larger u-joint. sjeper1 said non drilled u-joints I'll add no sticky tires.
 
Drilled U-joints - I assume you mean for lube. These aren't usually an issue if installed correctly - the lube hole should be on the "compression" side of the joint when installed - in other words the torque of the engine is twisting into the hole. If installed on the tension side, the u-joint will potentially rip apart.
 
Stanton said:
Drilled U-joints - I assume you mean for lube. These aren't usually an issue if installed correctly - the lube hole should be on the "compression" side of the joint when installed - in other words the torque of the engine is twisting into the hole. If installed on the tension side, the u-joint will potentially rip apart.
Click to expand...
ok, thks for explanation. I didn't understand that. does this mean they are as strong as the sealed u-joint?
 
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