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73 Charger

That could be an Aztec car.

Are the seats cloth with a square pinwheel kind of pattern?
I thought I took a more direct photo but i guess not

20200312_164347.jpg
 
youve already answered your own question..
Dont tear it apart,youll never get it done and then youll have wasted your time again.

tell us more about the rust you are fighting,where its at how bad etc etc.
and also hey check out the front K frame Bushings << under your car.
they literally are rubber bushing the factory attached the engine cradle to the body of your car with.
these are notorious for splitting,dry rotting and literally falling to pieces.
replace with Solid spacers and never look back.
inspect closely those mount areas in body for Rust/Rot as well.
i have parted out chargers over the years because of too much rot in those areas.
Best wishes to you and hope any of this helps.
Is that the bushing you are talking about?

20200312_164714.jpg
 
from the pics you need a master cylinder and a set of front disc brake pads And possibly a set of front rotors.
that pad looks like its been eating the D side rotor for awhile.

i cant tell much about the vinyl roof from here it doesnt look that bad.
the door ? skin? for what those scrapes? is there lower rust?
door looks okay to me ??
There is some rust starting, its deeper than it looks, meant to get a close up
 
Aztec was a package that had bronze paint and that interior pattern.

not super desirable but somewhat rare and neat

Rust under the top doesn't look too bad.

A LOT of time and effort or $$$ to fix.
Keep an eye on it, though if it starts to spread or get real high.

Brakes actually just look like it hasn't been driven in a while, although it does look like the pad material might be thin (although it's a bad angle to judge)
How does the pedal feel when the car is running?

Brakes are actually relatively easy to do although they intimidate a lot of people.
 
Aztec was a package that had bronze paint and that interior pattern.

not super desirable but somewhat rare and neat

Rust under the top doesn't look too bad.

A LOT of time and effort or $$$ to fix.
Keep an eye on it, though if it starts to spread or get real high.

Brakes actually just look like it hasn't been driven in a while, although it does look like the pad material might be thin (although it's a bad angle to judge)
How does the pedal feel when the car is running?

Brakes are actually relatively easy to do although they intimidate a lot of people.
Definitely hasn't been driven in awhile. Brake fluid is pretty much gone so I have to go through all that before I can find out.
 
...and you can enter the numbers on that fender tag into the fender tag decoder on mymopar.com as referenced above and find out a lot of the things your car was built with.
 
Dude, You are in NY. 90% of the cars in New York have more rust than yours and 99% of the 73-74 Chargers have more rust. In Ohio, we say: "That will buff out", meaning it is minor. I would fix the brakes, replace the caliper and rotor, and bleed, bleed, bleed the system. Then drive it and see what else it needs. Don't worry about a small scrape on the door or bubbles under the vinyl roof. There will be time for those small things later, if truly needed.
Get it on the road and see what the 318/904 will do. Always better to work on a drivable car, as when it seems frustrating, you can go for a drive and re-energize your motivation. Good Luck....
 
Agree on frame to K member ISO bushings looking not great but OK.

Look at the ones on the rear (there are 4 total 2 in front and 2 in back of the front wheel), and look at the "fish plates" that reinforce the frame where they bolt together.

I've seen more than a few 73/74 cars rust between the frame and those plates.

No fun fixing that.
 
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...and the brake system link is not OEM parts.

You can get OEM style reman stuff that looks like and bolts up exactly to what you have for a LOT less.

Try rockauto.

Nothing at all wrong with the factory disk system.
 
The difficult piece is the power booster.

If yours is OK (fairly easy to tell) leave it.

Rebuilds can be pricey and there are only a few that do it.

However, it would likely get re plated in the hard to do zinc-chromate coating.

If you can get a diaphragm kit, it's not hard to do yourself if you have a press or big vice.

...I painted mine with battery protectant and clear coat and it passes OK.
 
As blasphemous as it may be, I'm not worried about keeping things authentic. If something needs replacing I am more than happy to use modern upgrades, especially if there is a performance enhancement.
 
I picked up some naval jelly awhile back for some of these rusty parts. If the jelly works well and I get them cleaned up with that, think the parts would be ok? For example if I cleaned up the master cylinder with it?
 
Master cylinder rusting is not really an issue.

it's a bare metal part that comes in contact with brake fluid, which is a very effective paint stripper.
 
I found that originals were hard to find, and I was going to have to shell out money to rebuild my original. My thinking was go ahead and buy an aftermarket and see how it goes....
 
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