• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Wheelie bars?

67charger383

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:57 PM
Joined
Dec 13, 2019
Messages
1,237
Reaction score
5,075
Location
Maryland
What set will work on my pro street challenger? Backhalved with a narrowed Dana 60 with a Chris Alston ladder bar suspension, QA1 coilovers, and giant 33/21.50R15 M/T Sportsman Pro tires
OMZJlt7HH7LKLuPkxe2g0GdlZcd45Lr41NEuRGSFhaWTsbezwADmkRNW6KjoS648ZogQ8aZ=w1080-h822-no?authuser=0.png

:D
 
Last edited:
Really don't think you need wheelie bars BUT if you want them for LOOKS then I would just buy a set of JEGS wheelie bars and install them. Put the wheels up high enuf where you wont be dragging them coming out of parking lots, etc.
If you are actually running the car at the drag strip then make some runs to see if you actually need them...then proceed accordingly.
For drag racing where you need the bars,,,I personally like the wheelie bar setups that have the "leaf spring" type bottom bar, not a round tube solid bar.
 
Really don't think you need wheelie bars BUT if you want them for LOOKS then I would just buy a set of JEGS wheelie bars and install them. Put the wheels up high enuf where you wont be dragging them coming out of parking lots, etc.
If you are actually running the car at the drag strip then make some runs to see if you actually need them...then proceed accordingly.
For drag racing where you need the bars,,,I personally like the wheelie bar setups that have the "leaf spring" type bottom bar, not a round tube solid bar.

I'm going to race the charger. I bought the challenger as an unfinished project and will finish it and sell it. I'll take it to shows for a few years but don't want to race it because I can't afford to rebuild the engine if it blows up.
 
Talk to Chris Alston he will do you good...

IMO
I personally don't like the
flat bottom spring/with little coil springs on the adjusters too,
types of wheelie bars, NOT for 'all-out drag racing',
wanting to get the most out of the whole overall combo
they give way too much lift & it's not as controllable
too soft, too unpredictable, too inconsistent & they can bend easily
been there done that, it's not fun

unless you want to big *** wheelstands & don't care

In my personal experiences
the tubular style wheelie bars 'are far superior'
usually much longer too
(but they're not good on the street either)
to help control lift & to control wheel-speed,
the latter is 1/2 of the battle
it's a part of the overall suspension combo

if
your car actually needs them

you can tighten up the front shocks extension
or limit the front suspension travel mechanically
(tied down or a strap/bump stop etc.)
so it won't wheelstand/lift as bad too

ladders or 4 links "usually" don't need a
'huge amount' of front lift/separation or extension

the Calvert/CalTracs (or Assassin bars) need quite a bit of front lift/travel
like 3.5" (my ol' 68 RR needed 3.5") to 5+ inches, is recommended by Calvert

the better dbl adj. ladder bars or a good 4 link done properly
& proper weight distribution or use of ballast
doesn't need it, too much lift will defeat the purpose

There's more than one way to skin a cat
that's what has worked for me anyway

a loose front end
(lots of shock extension)
or way too much front suspension travel
will cause excessive wheelies, if you have the power

if
you have the kind of power & bar angle to pull the wheels up
IMO it's 'waste of time', 'waste of energy going up',
(some will argue otherwise)
'instead of out & moving forward'
it defeats the purpose of using modern suspension components
that's my $0.02 cents

unless maybe you have a red-light problem,
or are in S/S & they want a big show, being paid to do it
then it may help 'to not cross the staging front beams as quickly'
so you won't red-light, the ol' S/S guys & NSS love them big wheelies

of course, unless you want it to do big ol' wheelies
then ignore what I just said, won't hurt my feelings any

good luck
have fun, going fast/quick, that's what it's all about
getting the best out of your combo
 
Last edited:
What set will work on my pro street challenger? Backhalved with a narrowed Dana 60 with a Chris Alston ladder bar suspension, QA1 coilovers, and giant 33/21.50R15 M/T Sportsman Pro tires
View attachment 1063839
:D
The wheelie bars that I took off of my car need to mount to the axle tubes. I don't see them working with the coil overs and ladder bars in place.
 
That's why I posted this thread.
I have them in my shop, I can take a picture of the mounts for you. If you're a good fabricator, you can probably build a bracket to mount them. How much power are you putting to the ground? You probably don't need them, unless you're talking a low 9 second car.
 
I have them in my shop, I can take a picture of the mounts for you. If you're a good fabricator, you can probably build a bracket to mount them. How much power are you putting to the ground? You probably don't need them, unless you're talking a low 9 second car.
I don't know if I'll race it because I got a GREAT deal on it as an unfinished project and I might sell it in a few years and make a huge profit. Emphasis on "might" because I'm getting attached to it. :D
It was first built in the late 80's but was completely stripped apart in the early 90's to make it a perfect show car and it never got done. As it is now when I bought it, it is mechanically perfect and is 100% rust free with no bondo but just needs some paint corrections and interior work. (old custom lacquer paint is cracking or flaking in some spots and interior needs finishing). It's never actually been down the track, and I have no idea what it would run. I'm scared to because I don't think I can afford to fix it if I destroy the engine. My "guesstimate" would be 10.50s but I really don't know.
Build:
It has a blueprinted 440 with ported heads, an electric water pump, Milodon oiling, big mechanical cam, Hooker super comp headers, a BDS 8-71 blower with 2 650 double pumpers, and a MSD ignition.
Tranny is a 18 spline 833 4 speed from a hemi car with a pistol grip shifter.
Rear is a narrowed dana 60 with a detroit locker and 4.56 gears, Alston ladder bars and Qa1 coilovers.
Full cage, fuel cell, and dual rear mounted batteries.

Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ddCuXSyD2osgmno49

Really just wanted wheelie bars for "the look" at OC or Carlisle but don't need them because I probably wont race it.

I DEFINETLY will race the charger tho.
 
I don't know if I'll race it because I got a GREAT deal on it as an unfinished project and I might sell it in a few years and make a huge profit. Emphasis on "might" because I'm getting attached to it. :D
It was first built in the late 80's but was completely stripped apart in the early 90's to make it a perfect show car and it never got done. As it is now when I bought it, it is mechanically perfect and is 100% rust free with no bondo but just needs some paint corrections and interior work. (old custom lacquer paint is cracking or flaking in some spots and interior needs finishing). It's never actually been down the track, and I have no idea what it would run. I'm scared to because I don't think I can afford to fix it if I destroy the engine. My "guesstimate" would be 10.50s but I really don't know.
Build:
It has a blueprinted 440 with ported heads, an electric water pump, Milodon oiling, big mechanical cam, Hooker super comp headers, a BDS 8-71 blower with 2 650 double pumpers, and a MSD ignition.
Tranny is a 18 spline 833 4 speed from a hemi car with a pistol grip shifter.
Rear is a narrowed dana 60 with a detroit locker and 4.56 gears, Alston ladder bars and Qa1 coilovers.
Full cage, fuel cell, and dual rear mounted batteries.

Video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ddCuXSyD2osgmno49

Really just wanted wheelie bars for "the look" at OC or Carlisle but don't need them because I probably wont race it.
:xscuseless:
 
I use the flat bottom bars with the small coils. Car has been 1.250 60ft. Seem to work fine.
Doug

0312121859.jpg




FB_IMG_1582900603307.jpg
 
When I redid my cudas cage and suspension the ahop built these. He asked me if I was looking for oh **** bars or bars to help steer on the launch. I took his advise. He runs mid 4's in the 1/8 with min wheel stand.

MVIMG_20200113_170828.jpg
 
It all depends what you want the bars to do. If its a 4 second car in the 1/8, then yes long stiff bars get it up on the tire. But what about the rest of us mortals in the real world? We are using them as a safety device to keep from ruining oil pans, diapers, headers and maybe possibly more. On a good pass my car hangs the wheels a about 12" for close to 60 ft. Without the bars? Who knows. But its my bet if its got enough suds to carry 60 ft out it would keep climbing without the bars. The wheels on the bars definitely show contact. The thing with wheelie's is once in a while it may really want to stand up. If you don't have something, that may be the time you're going to buy some parts. Me? Same pan, diaper, headers for 8 years, 700+ passes.
Doug
 
It all depends what you want the bars to do. If its a 4 second car in the 1/8, then yes long stiff bars get it up on the tire. But what about the rest of us mortals in the real world? We are using them as a safety device to keep from ruining oil pans, diapers, headers and maybe possibly more. On a good pass my car hangs the wheels a about 12" for close to 60 ft. Without the bars? Who knows. But its my bet if its got enough suds to carry 60 ft out it would keep climbing without the bars. The wheels on the bars definitely show contact. The thing with wheelie's is once in a while it may really want to stand up. If you don't have something, that may be the time you're going to buy some parts. Me? Same pan, diaper, headers for 8 years, 700+ passes.
Doug

I get what you are saying Doug, mine are oh **** bars as I am also a mortal. Don't have the budget for anything close to what my chassis builder drives. The plan is to control wheel stands with the shocks(which is what my chassis shop suggested), if the ones I have aren't up to the task I will get a better pair. Car is being built to run local 6.0 (1/8th) class so it should work out. Famous last words right. Lol
 
Mines been 5.71/120@1/8. Looking for 5.60's this year.
Doug
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top