Wolf Tickets
Active Member
THE PROBLEM:
The right front wheel locks up first, and relatively easily, when braking. Under harder pedal pressure, the left front then locks up and the car yaws to the right.
ALSO: The brakes feel grabby SOMETIMES. Inching out of my slight downhill, gravel driveway is hard to do smoothly without a little lockup of that right front. I get the feeling that it's not always the same, though.
THE HISTORY:
Years ago I swapped the spindles from an Aspen onto my 69 Charger to get a cheap disc brake system. I didn't change master cyl at the time and they worked fine for years (though in hindsight I realize that there was no metering valve so the rear drums probably weren't doing anything after the swap, but thats all in the past).
Last year, I got a TON of work done and the shop replaced everything in the system. I've got all new parts. (combo valve, master cyl, booster, calipers, rotors, pads, hoses, hard lines). ALL of the rear brake parts are new as well, including the backing plates and hard lines/hoses.
Since then, I've had the right front caliper fail (in hindsight I assume this is from it doing all the work) and the right front rotor warp (same reason) and replaced both of those. I also replaced the left rotor thinking it might be faulty, but no change in effect.
I just got the car aligned and put new tires on and that didn't change anything.
I've done the following tests:
With car in the air, spin each wheel and see that they both stop evenly when pedal is pressed.
Neither side drags at all, wheels spin freely with car in air.
Good flow from both bleeder valves when bleeding (no air, and good blast of fluid when valve is opened with pressure on pedal)
I'd love to take a pressure reading at both sides, but I don't have the tools.
Any help would be great!!
THX!!
BEN
The right front wheel locks up first, and relatively easily, when braking. Under harder pedal pressure, the left front then locks up and the car yaws to the right.
ALSO: The brakes feel grabby SOMETIMES. Inching out of my slight downhill, gravel driveway is hard to do smoothly without a little lockup of that right front. I get the feeling that it's not always the same, though.
THE HISTORY:
Years ago I swapped the spindles from an Aspen onto my 69 Charger to get a cheap disc brake system. I didn't change master cyl at the time and they worked fine for years (though in hindsight I realize that there was no metering valve so the rear drums probably weren't doing anything after the swap, but thats all in the past).
Last year, I got a TON of work done and the shop replaced everything in the system. I've got all new parts. (combo valve, master cyl, booster, calipers, rotors, pads, hoses, hard lines). ALL of the rear brake parts are new as well, including the backing plates and hard lines/hoses.
Since then, I've had the right front caliper fail (in hindsight I assume this is from it doing all the work) and the right front rotor warp (same reason) and replaced both of those. I also replaced the left rotor thinking it might be faulty, but no change in effect.
I just got the car aligned and put new tires on and that didn't change anything.
I've done the following tests:
With car in the air, spin each wheel and see that they both stop evenly when pedal is pressed.
Neither side drags at all, wheels spin freely with car in air.
Good flow from both bleeder valves when bleeding (no air, and good blast of fluid when valve is opened with pressure on pedal)
I'd love to take a pressure reading at both sides, but I don't have the tools.
Any help would be great!!
THX!!
BEN
