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Reading My Spark Plugs

What ignition system are you running - Distributor Points or Electronic system Ignition Module
Type of coil - Ballast

Initial timing - Mechanical advance - Vacuum advance - Distributor cap , rotor
Spark plug wires

When is full mechanical timing all in at what RPMS
Distributor springs



Distributor Points or Electronic to start with first
 
Bee1971 said:
What ignition system are you running - Distributor Points or Electronic system Ignition Module
Type of coil - Ballast

Initial timing - Mechanical advance - Vacuum advance - Distributor cap , rotor
Spark plug wires

When is full mechanical timing all in at what RPMS

Points or Electronic to start with
Click to expand...
We have a Mopar Performance Black Box from the late 1990's with Vacuum Advance. I'm just learning about timing, not sure where the timing is "all in" yet, although I can check it this weekend and do a compression test with a mechanic friend of mine.
 
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glrestomod said:
We have a Mopar Performance Black Box from the late 1990's with Vacuum Advance. I'm just learning about timing, not sure where the timing is "all in" yet, although I can check it this weekend and do a compression test with a mechanic friend of mine.
Click to expand...
It seems like my timing is way off too (not because of how it runs, but because of where the mark is). Instead of being around 10-12 degrees (stock build and cam just bored 0.060 over and has an Edelbrock dual plane intake), the mark is down to around 20 maybe and won't run right if I move it up or down. Other than the erratic misfire it seems fine.
 
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If I had spark plugs that looked like that I would check the spark plug wires for cylinders 1 & 3

Did you check the firing order? 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
 
Orig69 said:
If I had spark plugs that looked like that I would check the spark plug wires for cylinders 1 & 3

Did you check the firing order? 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
Click to expand...
Will do, and I’ll also quadruple check the firing order. We’ve checked it three times but doesn’t hurt to check again! To check those wires do I just find where they are in the cap and swap them where they connect to the distributor cap?
 
You can swap the ignition wire from cylinder #1 with a spare ignition wire just to see if it runs better and do the same thing with cylinder #3
 
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The cam is stock is it? If not, the engine 'liking' 20*would not be surprising.
 
Geoff 2 said:
The cam is stock is it? If not, the engine 'liking' 20*would not be surprising.
Click to expand...
We told the engine builder to put it back to stock (in the late 90's when we bought it, it didn't have a stall converter and the cam was so radical it would die on me at red lights). So we assume based on what we told the engine builder in the early 2000's that is a stock cam profile. Maybe it isn't though. Is there any way to tell without taking the cam out?
 
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glrestomod said:
We told the engine builder to put it back to stock (in the late 90's when we bought it, it didn't have a stall converter and the cam was so radical it would die on me at red lights). So we assume based on what we told the engine builder in the early 2000's that is a stock cam profile. Maybe it isn't though. Is there any way to tell without taking the cam out?
Click to expand...
What are the cam specs? Stock cam profile means nothing...so does radical cam....was it degree in? Advanced or retarded or on center? Speculation without numbers is worthless.....what does the manufacturers cam card say? Has the "engine builder" supplied you with installation specs, bearing clearances, head cc's, gasket manufacturers type, piston/wall clearance, etc....if not, look for another builder.
BOB RENTON
 
RJRENTON said:
What are the cam specs? Stock cam profile means nothing...so does radical cam....was it degree in? Advanced or retarded or on center? Speculation without numbers is worthless.....what does the manufacturers cam card say? Has the "engine builder" supplied you with installation specs, bearing clearances, head cc's, gasket manufacturers type, piston/wall clearance, etc....if not, look for another builder.
BOB RENTON
Click to expand...
This was done in the early 2000's. My grandfather had it rebuilt. If there was a spec sheet it is long gone unfortunately. Obviously if we had that a lot of what I'm asking wouldn't be applicable, as I could just look it up and that would make this much easier of course. Given the situation I'm in, that's why I'm asking questions and trying to learn.
 
glrestomod said:
This was done in the early 2000's. My grandfather had it rebuilt. If there was a spec sheet it is long gone unfortunately. Obviously if we had that a lot of what I'm asking wouldn't be applicable, as I could just look it up and that would make this much easier of course. Given the situation I'm in, that's why I'm asking questions and trying to learn.
Click to expand...
Perhaps you or your builder can install a degree wheel, test springs, test lifter(s) and measure the cam profile in relation to the crank. Somewhere on the cam is the manufacturer's name part number, s/n etc to ID the cam.....that way you would know what you have for future reference. If the manufacturer can be identified, call them ...if still in business...and confirm your findings.....just a thought.....
BOB RENTON
 
Hmm, 18in of vacuum on a 1970 383 4bbl engine?
Is that not normal?
How about the "miss." Is that resolved?
 
NoCar2023 said:
Hmm, 18in of vacuum on a 1970 383 4bbl engine?
Is that not normal?
How about the "miss." Is that resolved?
Click to expand...
Well, from what I gather the vacuum reading at 18” is fantastic, but it doesn’t stay there. It holds for a brief moment, then drops and instantly shoots back up. Does this at regular intervals without skipping a beat. That’s why it’s more than likely a stuck or burnt valve from what I gather.

No, unfortunately the miss is still there and it’s worse the hotter the engine gets.
 
RJRENTON said:
Perhaps you or your builder can install a degree wheel, test springs, test lifter(s) and measure the cam profile in relation to the crank. Somewhere on the cam is the manufacturer's name part number, s/n etc to ID the cam.....that way you would know what you have for future reference. If the manufacturer can be identified, call them ...if still in business...and confirm your findings.....just a thought.....
BOB RENTON
Click to expand...
From what I father a local engine builder with a good reputation built it, so maybe I can track it down. Not sure how far back he keeps records or if I can track him down. I have a few contacts that may be able to help. I’m wanting to avoid taking the engine apart if possible. I appreciate your help and input!
 
You should create a YouTube channel and post a video.
 
NoCar2023 said:
You should create a YouTube channel and post a video.
Click to expand...
Funny you mention that! All my friends were trying to get me to do that, I filmed a lot of the things we did at the beginning, before I ever knew we could even get him running. I’m working on a fitness and nutrition brand YouTube channel and all the YouTube experts say not to do two channels at once is the only reason I stopped and dint post what I timed.
 
NoCar2023 said:
Do two different accounts.
Click to expand...
I filmed some videos of me trying to get the General Lee looking better, all the way up to trying to get him running again. We'll see, as I've been working on a fitness/nutrition channel for the last four years and was just about to launch in the coming months. I have all the social media and YouTube channel names already in preparation for the channel GLRESTOMOD, would just have to start editing and post.
 
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