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Lunati Hemi cams advice

RussY

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I have two new Lunati Hemi cams for a basically stock 426 +.040 engine in a 4000#, four speed, 3.54 Dana car, no intention of going past 6000-6500 rpm. Does anyone have any detailed information on either one of these cams listed below, ideally love to hear from someone who has used one in their car. I understand UDHarold designed the Voodoo cam, one of these is a Voodoo, does anyone know for a fact that he designed the 10240704, or is it a design after he left? Also love to hear from anyone with a similar car and what cam worked or didn't work. I have searched extensively and found very little real world info about specific cams and results for the 426, lots of info on the big inch stuff. New to the Hemi and not familiar with the nuances of cam timing for them. Thanks in advance!!!

Lunati #10240704/Hyd

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Lunati #30240504/Solid
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Cam #1 The other one has 260 duration. I don't think that's what you are looking for.
 
Cam #1 The other one has 260 duration. I don't think that's what you are looking for.
Thanks for taking the time to respond Rick, love your videos! Do you think the Hydraulic #1 is a good choice and would perform well, or should I find something else. Suggestion if so. Do you think #1 it is a HDHarold design? I spoke with Ray Barton, nothing but rollers, and Mike Jones, same thing, no small flat tappet cams. Both were very informative, but not much of a market for small Hemi flat tappet street cams, I get it!
 
Glad you like the videos. Yes, those guys are more into race cams. That cam should be plenty for what you are wanting to do.
 
I was going to say that first one looks good as well. I've run similiar but with around .510 lift and they were fine on the street.
 
the bad part of the first cam is it has too much spread between intake and exhaust duration that the hemi does not need.
 
the bad part of the first cam is it has too much spread between intake and exhaust duration that the hemi does not need.
the bad part of the first cam is it has too much spread between intake and exhaust duration that the hemi does not need.
I wondered about that, quite a few HEMI cams I’ve looked at do that as well. Maybe designed for stock exhaust? Rocker arm ratio difference? I don’t know, that’s why I am hoping someone has run it, or knows for a fact it is a UDHarold design. Do you have an idea of the negatives of the split? Thanks for your time, appreciate everyone.
 
#1 has about the same duration as a stock Street Hemi but a whole lot more lift.
 
the stock 1970-1971 hemi cam had 226 or 227 or 228 intake and exhaust @.050. Chrysler said 228* comp cams say 227* and Schneider cams say 226*. it was on a 112 LSA with 106 centerline they all agree on that. I think the 6* advance was to help the bottom end. The lift was 490 intake and 480 exhaust.
 
I wondered about that, quite a few HEMI cams I’ve looked at do that as well. Maybe designed for stock exhaust? Rocker arm ratio difference? I don’t know, that’s why I am hoping someone has run it, or knows for a fact it is a UDHarold design. Do you have an idea of the negatives of the split? Thanks for your time, appreciate everyone.
negatives less vacuum less bottom end. hemi needs lots of gear for stop light to stop light they were almost like a small block and had to get the rpms up to make power. they were getting beat a lot on the street unless they had lots of gear and good tuning and a dist recurve.
 
We have the 704 Lunati in a 10:1 383. It think it was designed long after Harold Brookshire did the .842” lifter voodoo cams. I have a lobe profile for it, it is designed for .904 dia lifters. I have seen lots of Harolds cams, I don’t think he did that one.
 
I would use a single pattern cam. The extra exh duration, large sluggish ports & 4000# are not going to make a happy marriage.....All the MP cams were single pattern...& there was a reason for that.
 
nice street cam .500 lift on a 108 LSA to make it turn on faster. little rougher idle than stock because of the 108 LSA.

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negatives less vacuum less bottom end. hemi needs lots of gear for stop light to stop light they were almost like a small block and had to get the rpms up to make power. they were getting beat a lot on the street unless they had lots of gear and good tuning and a dist recurve.

Huh???
 
I think GTXRT has given good advice. The Hemi was designed as a race engine. You pay a price when you try & detune a race engine to use on the street.....
 
Yeah, I think if you are going to cam up a street Hemi you need to add some deeper rear gearing to let it rev. I’m somewhat surprised how much stronger my 440 GTX feels off the line than my stock Hemi, both 3.55/3.54 gears. The 440 is an auto that helps with torque multiplication but still surprising. But that Hemi rush after the revs starts building is something the 440 doesn’t have.
 
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