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Rebuilding my 727 - what optional parts usually need replacing?

rklewis1005

rklewis1005

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I'm researching the rebuild for the 727 in my '70 Charger with a 383HP. I've been searching/reading FBBO threads on rebuild kits, have the manual by Tom Hand (and I've actually read some of it), and getting ready to buy a rebuild kit so the fun can begin. There are many different types of rebuild kits, shift kits, etc. So I have questions.

As background, my Charger is being restored to its original state (not concours as those folks are at another level); however, I want it to be close to how it was originally (period correct parts when possible). I'm not planning to install a shift kit, I'm rebuilding it as everything in a 55 year old car that's been sitting 40+ years needs at least some cleaning/lubrication. I plan to use the car for cruising, going to shows, etc. I will not be racing or trying to burn the tires off of it.

Regarding the options with rebuild kits (Oregon Performance Transmissions link and options below). Based on my quick reading of Tom Hand's manual, I want to replace the Steel Plates, but not clear about the rest. Of course, I'll check out everything during disassembly and cleaning as described in Tom Hand's manual; however, I'd rather have it at the ready if I should replace it. Can anyone chime in on the likelihood that the other stuff should be replaced (Low and Reverse bands, servos, accumulator, etc)? Are any of those items especially difficult to replace? I only plan to do this one time, so I have no problem replacing things that should be replaced; however, if some of it is highly unlikely to fail, why take a chance that the replacment is crap (seems to be a common issue with replacement parts in general)?


Thanks in advance for any helpful thoughts/info.

A727 Rebuild Kit Automatic Transmission Master Overhaul Set A-727 Torqueflite 8 Dodge Chrysler Jeep

Application: 1962-1970
Steel Clutch Plates: Steel plates +$29.99
Low and Reverse Band: 1962-1989 6.00" +$65.99
Thrust Washer Set: 1967-2001 +$46.99
Full Bushing Set: Bushing set +$24.99
Overrun Sprag: No sprag
Low and Reverse Servo: No servo
Intermediate Servo: No servo
Intermediate Accumulator: No accumulator
Reverse Servo Plug: No plug
Transgo Throttle Valve Repair: No TF-TV
Transgo Detent Repair: No TF-Detent
 
Have you driven the car? Does the trans work now? How many miles on this ca? If only driven for 15 years the trans could look nice inside.

Why replace the low band?
Why not replace the 2nd gear band also?

Why not use the original bands? They can still be good.
Do you have a bushing driver set? You are not going to swap bushings without one.
 
R413 said:
Have you driven the car? Does the trans work now? How many miles on this ca? If only driven for 15 years the trans could look nice inside.

Why replace the low band?
Why not replace the 2nd gear band also?

Why not use the original bands? They can still be good.
Do you have a bushing driver set? You are not going to swap bushings without one.
Click to expand...
No, I was 15-16 when my late brother parked it due to a rotten frame rail and it being unsafe to drive. The odometer reads 14,121, so I'd guess it's 114,121 (don't know for sure). The engine was a mess with a mouse nest up in the exhaust headers (rusted exhaust valve) so I didn't even try to run it - all rebuilt now.

Looking for what usually needs replacing so I can pre-buy, I'll check everything as I disassemble and buy more parts if needed.

Yes, I have a bushing driver set and a press if needed.
 
Was your brother flogging this car or driving like a sane adult. LOL

Yes probably 114K which is fine.

I Like your game plan, stock trans will do fine for your intended use.

I rebuilt 100's of 727's some are just beautiful inside, some are junk. Low and dirty fluid is hard on them.
 
Mandatory is all gaskets, rubber seals, and the filter. Since it's apart, do the friction plates and steel plates. I always put new sealing rings as well.

All remaining hard parts, bushings, and the two bands can be inspected during disassembly and cleaning to see if they need to be replaced. Often, they are still in good shape and will be reused. Intermediate band is easy to source and I usually replace it in mine. Low/Reverse band sees very little use and gets very little wear, so reuse is ok if in good shape.

Stock replacement grade parts are good for your application. No need to upgrade any of the parts in this application.
 
R413 said:
Was your brother flogging this car or driving like a sane adult. LOL

Yes probably 114K which is fine.

I Like your game plan, stock trans will do fine for your intended use.

I rebuilt 100's of 727's some are just beautiful inside, some are junk. Low and dirty fluid is hard on them.
Click to expand...
He bought it for $45 when he was 16 in 1979 and drove it for 4-5 years as a teenager/early 20s, so I'd say flogging it - knowing how he was!
 
Best bet is take it apart and see what you have inside. Then get the parts you need. Stock replacement 727 parts are in stock at most places, not hard to get.
 
rklewis1005 said:
I'm researching the rebuild for the 727 in my '70 Charger with a 383HP. I've been searching/reading FBBO threads on rebuild kits, have the manual by Tom Hand (and I've actually read some of it), and getting ready to buy a rebuild kit so the fun can begin. There are many different types of rebuild kits, shift kits, etc. So I have questions.

As background, my Charger is being restored to its original state (not concours as those folks are at another level); however, I want it to be close to how it was originally (period correct parts when possible). I'm not planning to install a shift kit, I'm rebuilding it as everything in a 55 year old car that's been sitting 40+ years needs at least some cleaning/lubrication. I plan to use the car for cruising, going to shows, etc. I will not be racing or trying to burn the tires off of it.

Regarding the options with rebuild kits (Oregon Performance Transmissions link and options below). Based on my quick reading of Tom Hand's manual, I want to replace the Steel Plates, but not clear about the rest. Of course, I'll check out everything during disassembly and cleaning as described in Tom Hand's manual; however, I'd rather have it at the ready if I should replace it. Can anyone chime in on the likelihood that the other stuff should be replaced (Low and Reverse bands, servos, accumulator, etc)? Are any of those items especially difficult to replace? I only plan to do this one time, so I have no problem replacing things that should be replaced; however, if some of it is highly unlikely to fail, why take a chance that the replacment is crap (seems to be a common issue with replacement parts in general)?


Thanks in advance for any helpful thoughts/info.

A727 Rebuild Kit Automatic Transmission Master Overhaul Set A-727 Torqueflite 8 Dodge Chrysler Jeep

Application: 1962-1970
Steel Clutch Plates: Steel plates +$29.99
Low and Reverse Band: 1962-1989 6.00" +$65.99
Thrust Washer Set: 1967-2001 +$46.99
Full Bushing Set: Bushing set +$24.99
Overrun Sprag: No sprag
Low and Reverse Servo: No servo
Intermediate Servo: No servo
Intermediate Accumulator: No accumulator
Reverse Servo Plug: No plug
Transgo Throttle Valve Repair: No TF-TV
Transgo Detent Repair: No TF-Detent
Click to expand...
I would definitely use new steels, and put new springs in the over running clutch. The OEM KD band was cast iron and is superior to the spring steel replacements-so reuse the original if lining looks good. If the T washers still look smooth even if down to the copper layer, I would reuse. The fiber washers (front clutch to pump, front to rear clutch, and input to output shaft) may be reused if they measure within specs. Replace all the metal seal rings-be gentle with the hooked rings! The governor typically has 1 hooked ring and 1 plain end ring, from Kokomo but, replacements are always sent plain ended. Completely disassemble and solvent wash everything except output shaft ball bearing, parking sprag on output shaft, and front servo shaft lever. I like to lean the parts up on edge over newsprint to air dry. Keep sub assemblies together for your peace of mind (I could pile the entire inner workings in a heap w/o a thought after all these years). Blow everything with compressed air as it is assembled. Lube everything with tranny fluid (I recommend Mopar ATF+4) if it will be used promptly or assembly lube/grease if the unit will be sitting for a while. Soak the discs in fluid before building the clutch packs (although I have been using a pump oiler for decades as I install each friction in the clutch retainers with no problems). Be sure to ask us anything you need help with!
Mike
 
493 Mike said:
I would definitely use new steels, and put new springs in the over running clutch. The OEM KD band was cast iron and is superior to the spring steel replacements-so reuse the original if lining looks good. If the T washers still look smooth even if down to the copper layer, I would reuse. The fiber washers (front clutch to pump, front to rear clutch, and input to output shaft) may be reused if they measure within specs. Replace all the metal seal rings-be gentle with the hooked rings! The governor typically has 1 hooked ring and 1 plain end ring, from Kokomo but, replacements are always sent plain ended. Completely disassemble and solvent wash everything except output shaft ball bearing, parking sprag on output shaft, and front servo shaft lever. I like to lean the parts up on edge over newsprint to air dry. Keep sub assemblies together for your peace of mind (I could pile the entire inner workings in a heap w/o a thought after all these years). Blow everything with compressed air as it is assembled. Lube everything with tranny fluid (I recommend Mopar ATF+4) if it will be used promptly or assembly lube/grease if the unit will be sitting for a while. Soak the discs in fluid before building the clutch packs (although I have been using a pump oiler for decades as I install each friction in the clutch retainers with no problems). Be sure to ask us anything you need help with!
Mike
Click to expand...
Mike, thanks for the detailed response. It could be sitting 6-12 months before it's in use, so I'll use assembly lube/grease.
 
rklewis1005 said:
Mike, thanks for the detailed response. It could be sitting 6-12 months before it's in use, so I'll use assembly lube/grease.
Click to expand...
Only on metal to metal stuff, stay with fluid on fiber lined friction material!
Mike
 
I think a tear down and inspection of parts would be my first move before ordering anything. Rebuild kits are readily available. that way you're not buying parts you don't need.
 
ruffcut said:
I think a tear down and inspection of parts would be my first move before ordering anything. Rebuild kits are readily available. that way you're not buying parts you don't need.
Click to expand...
Good advice, but I also know the rebuild will go better when my memory is fresh from the disassembly :)
 
You can have the kit and bushings there and then take trans apart. Order any other parts you find may need.

Then start cleaning parts, rebuilding your clutch packs and replacing the seals and o-rings in the case, front pump, etc. Take the valve body apart and clean it out, then reassemble it. That will keep you busy a few days while the additional parts are shipping to you.

See how easy this is? LOL!
 
Last edited:
R413 said:
You can have the kit there and then take trans apart. Order any other parts you find may need.

Then start cleaning parts, rebuilding your clutch packs and replacing the seals and o-rings in the case. Take the valve body apart and clean it out, then Reassemble. That will keep you busy a few days while the additional parts are shipping to you.

See how easy this is? LOL!
Click to expand...
Sounds like a plan!
 
I usually replace the pump and front drum bushings. These are not usually in rebuild kits and need to be ordered separately. I have had good service from A&A Transmissions near Indy. If you tear the valve body down, be sure to keep the springs with the appropriate valves. A couple of the springs resemble each other, but will cause you grief if mixed up. Rear band rarely needs replacement. Tighten lock screw under the sprag clutch. Worst part of rebuild is getting the front drum piston apart to replace seals.
 
493 Mike said:
Only on metal to metal stuff, stay with fluid on fiber lined friction material!
Mike
Click to expand...
Something like LubeGuard Assemble Goo - Blue (light tack) or Green (firm tack)?
 
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